Just curious what everyone else thinks. I have a 90 4Runner and I want to do some sort of lift to fit 33's. The question is suspension or body?

 

do searches as everyone will tell you...

then they will tell you depends on how you will use your truck and what you hope to accomplish.

then there will be the whole debate over suspension lift versus body lift...



if you want to improve your trucks wheel travel for offroading then suspension....

if you just want to fit bigger tires...a body lift is quick and easy...

you can even do a combination of both...

see 4crawlers website.....everything you need to kow is there...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml

hope some of that helps.

 

http://cornfedsuspension.com/

 

Buck, I am basically trying to build a rig that I can use as a daily driver but will be very capable in the mud and on trails.

 

Snafu, the cornfed lifts only go back to 96 on 4Runners.

 

did you check out 4crawler?

capable offroad is pretty open ended....for fire roads..rock crawling...muudy path back to the hunting cabin???

not being a smart a$$...just know that these questions will be asked..and really do affect your responses..

 

Ha! Yeah I here ya. Maybe this will help... I just moved to Nebraska. The closest paved road from my house is 4 1/2 miles (minimum maintenance). The badlands are about 4 hours west of me and all you can see looking off my front porch is fields. Will I ever need 42's and 12 inches of lift here...No. But doing donuts, gettin muddy and seeing how far I can go without getting stuck will be a weekly thing.

 

well if you aren't going rock crawling and you dont need huge amounts of wheel travel.

Then get a body lift for bigger tires.
then get lockers and a winch.

you will have a very capable vehicle. Still very streetable. Able to get it's self out of most trouble spots with the winch.

 

All of the above are wrong. Sorry to sound harsh, but it's true.

The BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK for 90-95 trucks and 4Runners is 33x10.50-15 on the stock rims. Will fit with NO rubbing. All you are out is the cost of the tires. Both the BFG A/T and M/T are available in that size. (In addition to the Dunlop Radial Rover RVXT and a couple different Super Swamper models)

Take all the money you saved on the lift and put it towards armor - sliders, skids, bumpers (in that order). Then lockers. By the time you exceed the capability of that setup, you will know EXACTLY where you want to go with the truck - be it SAS, LT, or a buggy and won't be cutting off big bucks you spent on lift.

 

and so the debate begins : )

Good Luck Sts2

 

See:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

 

i dont disagree with all of this but some

it should go

locker, sliders, skids, lift, tires, imo. that will get you farther.

and yeah there is no answer to this q, because one isnt necc. better than the other (ok, suspension lifts are better), but the two together is great for clearing larger tires, better wheel travel, clearance and flex.

so combine em. if you wanna go cheap to start, get a spacer lift. BL should come before sliders though, imo, so you dont have to adjust them. i did the BL after the sliders and it turned out fine, never had to cut and reweld em, but some have run into that problem.

 

actually, he doesn't need sliders or skids. he's in MUD country and doesn't mention wheeling in rocks, or even in the woods for that matter.

sliders would help if he's ever around any trees. if he's strictly to fields or open areas, then they aren't even needed.

 

All of the above are great ideas and I appreciate them all. TC, I found a place called UltimateOffRoad the other day in Omaha and they told me that there is NO WAY I can fit 33's with stock suspension and no BL. I have heard a few people say they will and a few that have said they won't so I really have no friggin clue. However I do like the idea of a mild lift, 33's, lockers and a winch. Guess we'll see what happens...

 

33x10.50's will fit with no lift, TC runs them now and so do several other people. You dont need any trail armor being as you live in mudville. after you get mud's on get an auto or selectable locker. the auto's are around 230ish and the selectable such as ARB's air locker are quite a bit more, around 700-800. The majority of trail riding i do is in the mud and slightly unlevel terrain so i know where you are comming from.

 

Plenty of pix on http://www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action of some guy I know running 33x10.50-15 on the stock rims on Poison Spider, Moab Rim, Hell's Revenge, Lefthand Carnage Canyon ....

Yes, they WILL fit so long as you mount them at stock backspacing. Worst case, you may have to beat the pinchweld flat and maybe trim the lower part of the front valance.

 

I know I have A LOT more fun 'wheeling when I'm not paranoid about taking a rock/stump through the oil pan or transfer case or crushing the rockers and not being able to open the doors - that's why I say armor first. IMHO, it makes it more fun and allows you to try some things you might not otherwise and thereby advance your driving ability.

Yes, lockers will make the biggest improvement in the off road capability of the truck (followed closely by tires in the case of muddin').

As for the BL/sliders - I'm going through the same dilemma now ... wish I had thought about that before. (More 'cuz I eventually want to do a 3.4 swap, and you need a BL to make it work right)

 

seems to me like the 7 or 800 for a selectable would be much more worth your money than the 2-300 for a lunchbox locker

 

Ok, done some research and I think i'm gonna try to do a 2 inch BL with the 33's to start and then get locked. Bumpers and winches can come later. Right now a guy I work with is helping me build a roof rack out of rebar. Once it's done I'll post some pics for you all. And again thanks for all the great advice!

 

Talk about booty-fab!! Buy some small pipe and make it at least look decent.