OK I am replacing my head gasket because I have an external leak. I got my header unbolted on the right side of the engine, but I'm having trouble removing the intake plenum and manifold on the left side. I can see the bolts I need to get at to remove the manifold, but the plenum is in the way. I have taken 4 bolts out from where the plenum attaches, and I can't find anymore to take out, but it still won't come off. Both my Haynes and Chilton's manuals don't say how many bolts there are; they just say remove Intake plenum and manifold as a step at getting to the head gasket.

Thanks,
Rob

 

aren't there 8 is this a 3.0?

 

Sorry forgot to say 22RE. I know there are 8 for the manifold; there is a pic of that in my manual. But it doesn't say crap about the plenum. I guess there could be 8, but I don't see the other 4.

Rob

 

i could only take the upper one off my 22re since someone thought it would be a great idea to run the tranny cable down the middle of the lower one

 

What do you mean you could only take the upper one off? Do you mean you didn't seperate the plenum and manifold?

Rob

 

ah... i think there are six two are studs and there is one other for a ground

 

yes theres a upper and lower one couldint remove the lower as the tranny cable runs throw it

 

Pull the head with the intake in place. You can go inside and disconnect the harness and pull it out through the firewall. if you need to remove the manifold you can do it when the head is off.

 

Really you can pull the head without unbolting the intake manifold? I have never heard of that. Sounds much easier though.

Rob

 

That's the way I do it, I also disconnect the harness this way when pulling the engine on a Toyota truck.

 

I do not know if someone posted this i did not read all the posts but there is a allen bolt on it as well I have a head out side I can take a pic of and post for you if you cant find the allen bolt

ok i ran out there this is the bolt we missed the last head we did confused the hell out of us this one is stripped out thats why it is still on the head

 

Ah, several are hard ot reach and one is a 5mm allen cap!

 

there is a long allen bolt that goes under the thermostat, hard to see. I outlined in red in photo below. It helps to have a new gasket on hand and by looking at the holes, you know where to feel for bolts and nuts/studs.

 

I have decided to follow Targetnut's advice. I have got the harness through the firewall and have taken out the head bolts and rocker assembly, but can't get the head to break free from the block. Any suggestions that don't involve prying?

Rob

 

rubber mallet? Could be a pretty heavy unit to lift with the intake attached. Don't forget the brace bar under the intake, remove that bolt before lifting.

 

I'm assuming you have removed the bolt under the dist drive gear hidden under a puddle of oil, right?

 

I got everything out as a unit. Yes it was heavy haha. It looks like the head might be warped when I use a straightedge on it. The guy I bought this from said that was bored over. Does that mean I need a head and head gasket with oversize holes, or will standard ones still work?

Rob

 

Do you mean the previous owner had had the head re-surfaced? If its warped you'll need to fix it up again. New head bolts should be used when piecing back together. I don't know why you would need oversized holes.

 

you just need a std head gasket

 

No the previous owner bored the block so he could put in oversized pistons. I'm not sure if he did it because of engine failure or for performance. I didn't know how that worked with standard head gaskets, cylinder head, etc.

Is there something that can be done for a warped head, or should I just spring for a new one? It seems to be warped right where it was leaking down the block.

Rob