1992 Toyota pickup DLX 3.0 v6 not starting.
12-12-2018, 07:15 PM
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1992 Toyota pickup DLX 3.0 v6 not starting.
So I have replace just about everything I can think of and read about on hundred of forms on this motor and it still doesn’t run! I’ve replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle position sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, knock sensor, main relay fuse under the hood, injectors, except for cold start injector, and the guy I bought it from said it just had the valves adjusted less then 2.5k miles, idk about the head gasket, and I haven’t checked the alternator or starter. I need help!!!!
12-12-2018, 08:13 PM
#2
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Some information on what you are experiencing would be helpful.
What happens when you turn the key? Crank? Click? Nothing?
Have you tried starting it with the fuel pump jumpered in the under hood diagnostic connector?
It sounds like it has a bunch of new parts on it, but what have you checked and/or discovered (getting fuel, spark, etc)?
What happens when you turn the key? Crank? Click? Nothing?
Have you tried starting it with the fuel pump jumpered in the under hood diagnostic connector?
It sounds like it has a bunch of new parts on it, but what have you checked and/or discovered (getting fuel, spark, etc)?
Last edited by az4x4runner; 12-12-2018 at 08:18 PM.
12-12-2018, 10:21 PM
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Okay so I turn the key and it only cranks, it will kinda spit and sputter but that’s it. I get plenty of fuel I haven’t checked the pressure but I can smell semi burnt fuel out the exhaust but still kinda a raw gas smell. I have tried the jumper wire truck, got nothing. It gets spark I’m not sure how strong haven’t checked in a while. I’ve also replaced the ignition control module and the maf box. I haven’t checked compression. I’ve checked the timing but I’m not sure what’s a good range of timing for this motor.
12-12-2018, 11:05 PM
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Okay so when I bough it it didn’t run and it didn’t crank for some reason so I bough it trailered it home then started messing with it and found that the black wire on the back of the ignition switch was not connected together and the other part of the wire was to short so they had a short piece of wire spliced in. So I connected them together and it started cranking over when I turned the key. Then I just cranked on it for a while kinda longer then I shoulda but it started eventually but it spit and sputtered to life and then smoothed out. When I got home it was fine it fired up every time when I turned the key but the next morning the same problem was there, not starting. So that’s the battle I’ve bet fighting through replacing parts.
12-12-2018, 11:19 PM
#6
I would suggest not firing more parts at it and start at ground zero. Compression, timing, and spark at the right time. You have to work your way up when you buy a non running vehicle and disregard anything a previous owner told you, unless you have proof. Even then I wouldn’t care what they told me unless you confirm it.
Is it still turning over with the ignition now, or are you saying you are back in the same situation when you bought it with it not engaging the starter motor?
Is it still turning over with the ignition now, or are you saying you are back in the same situation when you bought it with it not engaging the starter motor?
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12-13-2018, 08:30 AM
#8
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I agree with the above. It is best to start from the beginning.
Is the gasoline in the tank fresh? How long has it been sitting?
You will want to make sure you are using fresh gas as old gas tends to not burn well and can "gel", causing problems.
Is the gasoline in the tank fresh? How long has it been sitting?
You will want to make sure you are using fresh gas as old gas tends to not burn well and can "gel", causing problems.
12-13-2018, 10:37 AM
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Get a timing light ($30, and you needed one long before you replaced any of those parts). Put the inductive pickup on each plug wire and crank. If the light flashes, you have spark. Don't lose the light; you'll need it later.
Get some spray engine starter. Squirt a shot right into the throttle body, put the flex hose back on (a fuel injected engine can't run without all the induction plumbing), then crank. If it sputters to life for a few seconds, you have a fuel delivery problem.
If you have spark and starting fluid does nothing, get a compression gauge. Again, lots cheaper than all the parts you've been throwing. Test each cylinder and compare. Low compression is bad, but what you're really looking for is wide variation between cylinders.
12-13-2018, 11:10 AM
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Yes it has good fuel in it I put some 91 in it about 2 weeks ago but it’s been sitting for over a year now since I’ve had it. Okay I’ll have to go get a timing light and a compression tester then I will get back to y’all.
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