That looks great! I'm excited to replace mine as well. I just sent the shifter lever of a t-case through the side of mine. I'm probably gonna use plywood and build a sub box into the side by the roll bar, and move the 6x9's to where the little storage areas are by the back seat.

 

I cleaned up the Inner Rear Body Panel some more by tucking harness as tight as possible behind the middle beam, to use as storage. Will replace quarter panels with ones that will allow access to the whole width of openings.
I have 1/4-inch polycarbonate sheets but I think foam-backed and vinyl-wrapped wood panel will be lighter and provide better noise insulation.
Pics taken while in-process.
I deleted rear windshield system. May re-purpose windshield washer/pump into water storage / pump system.
Bottle jack storage and handle extension rod will be re-installed.












MADE REPLACEMENT PANEL/DOOR

PANEL / DOOR
Used black Plexiglas that I have lying around. If it turns out to be too fragile, I'll replace with clear Polycarb that I also have that I'll paint black. (D-Ring tie-down is reflected on glossy material)


NEEDS A LATCH MECHANISM
It will latch on to lip of body panel. I don't need it to be locking, yet. I a want minimal, low-bulk, low-cost solution. Would appreciate your inputs.

WORKS LIKE MARY POPPINS' MAGIC BAG

Front section beside the roll-bar will be next. Same concept.

keywords: rearbodypanelstorage

 

To utilize area bounded by the roll-bar and the wheel-well...
BTW: NOT A GOOD IDEA TO STORE FIRE EXTINGUISHER ON ROLL-BAR. In case of a fire, most likely in engine compartment, power would probably go out and leave rear window inoperable for accessing extinguisher. I plan to relocate, maybe along transmission hump next to passenger's left leg.



Dimensions in case you want to make your own. This is for the front and sides of the pouch. Just make one that's 11" x 9.25" x 12.625" x 15.5" (PLUS your choice of seam width) for the rear panel.
(I used 0.25-inch for seams. Your option to use different width.):


Made template out of Shopping Bag... (Pls note that I revised dims to show 0.75 inch for the "Draw-cord collar" at the opening just for flexibility.)


I prefer to hand stitch seams.





Doubled Up Hook side of the velcro straps...



Put "Loop" patches on the roll-bar to help keep pouch in place:







VOILA!...
Easy to remove to access more storage space in body compartment behind it. Right now I just have thick foam that's my template for final body panel replacement (possibly vinyl-wrapped plywood).

 

Excellent use of storage space RAD!

And a handy place to store the FSM too!

 

just to let people know .. we build fiberglass replacements .. much better then the OE plastic pieces .

 

What is the wait time on those?

 

stupid wait time ..
but I am looking for my own building .. I am relocating , so hopefully I will soon be able to elevate the back order situation .

 

I have rolled around the idea for a long time and haven't decided on a good solution. My best suggestion is decide what you need most. Speakers? Subwoofers? Storage? Good looks? How much time/vs money? I think the diamond plate looks awesome but, cost of material and ease of working with it has kept me away. I NEED to have decent sound but I can't afford to lose much storage space. I haven't built it yet but, my goal would be to use the open body panels and some doors to create as much storage as possible. No one solution is best, you really have to evaluate your needs. For me this is a family adventure vehicle so it needs storage.

 

Yes, maximum opening access entire space inside the body panel for minimum expense. This^^^ way.

 

I wanted to pull the trigger on a set of these, how many weeks in "stupid"? Or are we talking months?

 

If you already have some panels you could just coat them with a fiberglass resin to stiffen them up.

 

I'm actually trying to replace a missing one... The one I have is in great condition, but I haven't had any luck finding a driver-side panel yet. Just as soon replace them both with fiberglass ones if I can get them.

 

Yeah, those fiberglas ones are very nice!

 

right now ~ 3-4 months deposit required .

there is NO strength in resin

as above , if you do want some , give yourself lots of time , we are very busy .

 

Nice work RAD
Is this the bsic idea on the latch?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-T...QAAOSwx5RanL9C

 

I prefer the OEM look but this guy on Facebook makes these out of metal for $200/pair. He also makes door cards and tailgate panels. People seem to love his work. You have to join Facebook to see this. You can join with a fake name. Eddie's Custom Designs
https://www.facebook.com/TOYOTAS.4.L...egory_pyml_rhc

 

I prefer the OEM look, too, but that guy makes some really nice stuff! I'm already neck-deep in making new door panels and side panels, so I'll just go with the fiberglass ones from Slacker. My 4Runner is a trail vehicle, so the wait time isn't really an issue for me. You'll be hearing from me, Slacker, very soon.

 

Yes
But debating whether to use keyed or one with heftier twist handle. Although I could simply leave the key on the lock/latch
​​​​​Then, I'll set ut up so when I want to leave it open longer, like when I'm working on something, Ill hang it from my "tie-up" points right above.

Sounds/looks like Yotatech's very own RustED

 

I was trying to figure out what it would be called without a lock and came up with

 

Yes, similar but simpler....
Camco Cam Cabinet Latch