So if I install an OEM PCV Valve on my rebuilt setup I 'should not' see this much oil in the lower end of my intake hose and charge pipe? The last 2 times I removed my charge pipe, there was a considerable amount of oil in it. That was only about 2 weeks apart, BTW. There was a lot of oil coating the inside of my TB. I cleaned it all up but 2 weeks later, it was coated up again. I knew it was coated up because it would hesitate then stall. That's why I stopped running her and began preparing for the powertrain rebuild.

I'll have to pick your brain again about the fans when I'm about to cross that bridge, LOL.

 

The part store PCV valve is likely going to be molded plastic. This leaves internal seams where they glue the two halves (vertically) of the body around the valve sections, which negates its function as a one way valve. Also that "part number" is used on various engine applications, IE the valve weight and spring pressure are similar to the OEM specs.

The Toyota supplied valve fits only the 22rte, exact engineered valve weight and spring pressure. Is made of a metal body that is assembled horizontal, so no casting seams that defeat its function.

PCV is easy enough to bench test for leaks.

If it passes air from the intake side to the crankcase side it is faulty. Easy to check by blowing air from the intake side it should slam the valve closed.

To keep oil out of the intake system the OEM valve will do a lot but it's still going to suck some crankcase vapor. What you don't get is the boost forcing liquid oil up the hose because it's pressurized the crankcase also, or the boost leak.


You can always add a oil catch can to the forward line on the valve cover.

 

Ok cool that makes a lot of sense. I'll make sure to purchase the OEM PCV only.

Is/was your OEM air intake hose torn and/or did you find an OEM replacement or did you come up with a viable fix? I'm trying to figure out a clean replacement for mine since it's torn.

 

I tried to put the wrong one on , from my little Ford, which has a big whole in it the PO put in it and tapes over.. Of course that drove me nuts.

I'm using a flexible accordion (spectra brand) from the parts store, and one of thier couplers (flex hose to compressor elbow). It has an air box delete, from the PO, so the filter end of the flex hose fits over the the adapter plate and is crushed into place with the hose clamps..

It burned through once on me, everyrhing shifted when I went thru a ditch, so I had to add a heat shield. I didn't get any of the OEM heat shields with my rig sadly. But it's holding up now it can't come in contact with the exhaust manifold.

 

My buddy and I were snooping around in the engine bay today to get a game plan ready for next Sunday's engine hoisting event. That's when I spotted this connector that has a jumper wire in it. Do you guys have any idea what the connector is for and why the previous owner may have jumped it? It obviously plugs into the female side also shown in this photograph. It's located between the intake manifold and the starter.

Also, what are your guys thoughts on wrapping the charge pipe and adding a turbo blanket to reduce engine bay temps?

A jumped connector?

 

PCV is vented directly into the intake back between cylinder 3 and 4. The front vent on the valve cover is a baffle vent for the valve cover. Excessive ring blow by is venting out through here and it carries a little oil with it and deposits it in the tube. Then it is pushed through your turbo and tube all the way to the throttle body. it will carbon up your throttle body and cause idle problems. You don't need it. Pick up one of these vent filters and cap the port on the air intake tube.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-C....c100005.m2219
Next thing to keep in mind is you could have a failing turbo shaft seal. The oil comes in here you have to rebuild the turbo or replace it.

 

Is your truck and automatic transmission?? Is that the neutral safety switch connector follow the other end of the wire back over the trans and see where is ends? If it is the neutral safety switch connector the engine wouldn't turn over if you disconnect one end of the jumper.

 

This pic is the neutral safety switch and its connector. Pretty sure this is your connector in the pic.

 

Yup, she's an automatic. Ok I'll check it out, thanks 86-turbo. Unfortunately I didn't have time to crawl under and check. I just happened to notice it when we were getting ready to leave to grab grub.

I'll have time to remove the turbo assembly when I get back from Thanksgiving with the family. I hope I can salvage my OEM CT20. I know for sure my OEM exhaust manifold is cracked.

 

I see a $700 manifold in your future.

 

LOL, I mentioned it in a older post that I found an OEM exhaust manifold that is not cracked. The one currently bolted on the engine is the one cracked. Eventually I'll purchase an LCE billet exhaust manifold, but for now I need that $700+ to go towards other things to get my girl running for the drive to TX when we move in March (hopefully). I already purchased the GT25R kit because I'm pretty confident that the turbo is faulty.

 

And... begin.

22RTE
Engine Bay

I'm planning on delivering my engine to the guys at 22RE Performance sometime this week.

 

I haven't had a chance to completely dismantle the CT20 Turbo but I did immediately notice this crack on it's exhaust housing. I'll have the assembly completely dismantled and inspected soon.

Cracked CT20 Exhaust Housing

CT20 Wastegate & Exhaust Turbine. There's also a crack between them.

I'll be dropping her engine off tomorrow morning at 22RE Performance. I'm glad they're less than a 3 hours drive away.

22RET En Route to 22RE Performance

 

Ouch. That housing is done.

 

LOL! Yeah, it's definitely seen better days.

I just got back from 22RE Performance (aka: Putney's Custom Automotive Machine) in Chico, CA. My buddy and I spent a couple of hours talking to Jim and Jerry about my Stage 2.5 build and some of the other builds they have going on in the shop. They were very knowledgeable, friendly and welcoming. For a machine shop, it was very organized and tidy, which in my mind indicates they're OCD like me and prefer things be in good order, LOL! Jim also showed us the room and some of the equipment for their dyno machine. I'm really looking forward to seeing that up and running. I hope I see my engine sooner than later because it's going to be the only thing keeping us in CA until it's done and reinstalled.

 

Following.

 

Thanks for following, Youngiam! It's gonna be a lengthy rebuild process but I'll be documenting every step of the way.

 

Wooohooo! I finally scored a pair of the exact OEM front-seat tilting Turbo headrests I've been praying and looking for!!! Thanks to Steven at Gem County Auto & Truck Parts in Emmet, Idaho!

Steven really pulled through for me. He was very helpful and very knowledgeable about Yotas. I look forward to doing more business with him in the future. Y'all should contact him for your potential hard to find Yota parts. Maybe he'll have what you've been looking for too.

OEM front-seat tilting Turbo headrests

 

Nice score on the headrests!!! What's Stevens contact info or username? I could use some help finding parts myself. =)

 

What's up 19Turbo86, I'm glad you like the score as much as I do! Yeah man, if you click back to earlier posts you'll see that I mention the search for these headrests at least a couple of times, LOL! I'll PM you his contact info in a sec.

Happy New Year y'all! May your wheelin' trips be safe and awesome, cheers!