Oh nice! I bet the anxiety is killin' you, LOL! Congrats!

My 2.5 engine build is already underway with 22RE Performance. Thankfully they have all of the engine internals I need. I'm anxiuos to get May fired back up. But as you can read on my laundry list (Page 1) of things to buy, it's gonna be a long long road. All good though, I don't mind waiting for greatness.

 

Trust me I know exactly. I had my truck in storage for 10 years. Finished a lot of other projects so I could focus on my truck. I've put around 10k in it over the last two years.

 

That is exactly what I have to do to mine when I get to TX! Looks awesome! Great work bud!

 

Earlier this week I ordered the GT25R Turbo Kit from LCEngineering and a new copper/brass 3-row radiator from Dave'z Off Road Performance. I need to begin the teardown and removal of my engine in anticipation of the Stage 2.5 engine I'm getting from 22RE Performance. I hope to be picking it up within the next couple of months. For now I'll come up with the long laundry list of hoses and stuff I'll need to replace.

I'm still looking for front gray colored turbo headrests y'all, if you know of a pair hiding somewhere, please let me know.

 

I took my seats down and had them rebuilt. New foam and all new upholstery.
I also just got my box yesterday with LCE exhaust system. All stainless and ceramic coated cat back system. Currently working on my intercooler piping. Ordering right angle hoses pipes and a HKS sequential BOV.

 

Let's see those seats!

 

Leather on the sides and a soft volure in the center. My truck is an SR5 so it has seat base adjustable, lumbar and side squeeze adjustments.

 

My GT25R Turbo Kit and CSF 3-Row Radiator arrived! Wooohooo!

The seats look good 86-Turbo I'm gonna keep lookin' for those turbo tilt headrests. I'm trying to keep most of her OEM.

Question for you guys... Is the radiator support welded on in our rigs or is it bolted on? I'm getting ready to pull my engine but I have limited ceiling space in my garage so I figured I could dismantle the front end so I wouldn't have to clear the radiator support. I'd like to keep the hoist's arm as low as I can during the process so I don't end up jackin' up my ceiling.

Garrett GT25R
Garrett GT25R
Garrett GT25R
Garrett GT25R
Garrett GT25R
Garrett GT25R
LCE GT25R Kit... CSF 3-Row
CSF 3-Row
CSF 3-Row

 

It's a single piece welded to the skirt/inner-fender. Letting air out of the tires might get you the space you need?

 

That's a great idea Co_94_PU I 'should' get enough clearance by doing that. I just gotta pick up my buddy's cherry picker and start disconnecting all of the hoses and wires.

 

Are you running your stock original manifold? They are very prone to cracking in the middle. I had a BIG crack in mine. Ended up buying LCE's manifold. If you get their manifold you will have to replace all the exhaust studs with longer studs. Think that I had to go to 50mm long studs. You can get them on eBay.

 

I'm going to use the OEM exhaust manifold for now because of my budget, LOL. I'll eventually purchase the LCE one like yours so thank you much for the tip on the studs, it's very much appreciated. Do you happen to have a link to where you purchased your 50mm studs? I'd rather like to avoid ordering the wrong ones.

That's a good lookin' engine!

This is how my engine looks at the moment...

Dirty 22RTE...

 

That's pretty much how my baby looked too. My restore has been a VERY long road. Are you going to run an intercooler? Or the factory pipe? I picked up a really nice adaptor hose connector for the turbo and am in the middle of plumbing the intercooler the last few days. Waiting for parts to come in. It was a little troublesome to find the right size intercooler, but it doesn't take big intercooler to do the job. Mounted mine low so it doesn't get heat saturation and made a simple bracket I bolted in using the nuts for the Idler arm and the steering box bolts.

Here's a link to the studs. I bought one pack this size and a smaller qty pack also to get all I needed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-Exhaus...item25aefa0c02

Just food for thought, I went with hi impedance injector kit, that removed the solenoid resistor pack. Better fuel spray atomization for more power and efficiency. Wasn't expensive either. Matched injectors, new inj. wire connectors and a jumped to delete the resistor.
EGR deleted with LCE block offs. High impedance injector kit.
Installing turbo intercooler.

 

Thank you for the link 86-turbo. I bookmarked the page in my Yota favorites folder for 'future' purchases. I'm going to stay with the OEM pipe setup for now. As mentioned in a previous post, I'm going to be moving to TX so I need to watch my spending for a while. So only necessity items for now. Performance upgrades will be in my crosshairs in due time.

I definitely want to switch over from the OEM clutch fan setup to an electric one. Which brand did you end up installing and why, may I ask, that particular one?

I have yet to determine which pipes, hoses and seals need to be replaced until I pull the engine. I just wish there weren't so many items discontinued, LOL! Hopefully the pipes aren't corroded past restorability.

 

I installed generic fans from Ebay. I decided to run two 10" fans so if one were to fail I would have a backup. Then I got the Hayden electric fan kit 3654, to power it. It has adjustable temp setting so I can set when my fan comes on, and has a low and high speed fan depending on temp. Low comes on and if the temp climbs 10* higher high speed fan comes on. And it has a wire for the A/C relay so when it sees the A/C come on it will turn the fans on as well.

 

2 fans are a great idea, that's great preplanning! If you don't mind, I'm going to have to use that concept.

I just drained the coolant and oil out of my girl. Tomorrow I'm going to begin photographing, and disconnecting the hoses and connectors. My buddy and I are going to pull her engine out on the 26th.

 

I got bored so I began dismantling today, LOL. When I removed the air intake hose, I noticed how much oil was in the lower section of the hose and in the stainless steel pipe. That's the sure sign my CT20 Turbo is leaking and/or cracked. I'll probably pull the complete turbo assembly tomorrow and see just how bad it is.

The photos don't do it justice. Believe me when I say theres a lot of oil residue in there...

Air Intake Hose (17880-35010) w/oil residue from the CT20 Turbo. Note the wire loop just above the 3'oclock position. It's keeping the hose together. The previous owner wired it together and sealed it with duct tape.

The stainless steel pipe (17885-35010) leading to the CT20 Turbo air inlet.

 

Oil in the turbine compressor intake (thats the suction side) comes from the PCV system. Indicates a bad (cheap non OEM) PCV valve or lots of blow by.

The oil tends to blow out the exhaust side, path of least resistance.

P​​​​​​S, the intake tube is aluminum, noteworthy if you need to weld on it.

 

Ok, then that's sort of good news then. I hope that's the case. I'd like to salvage the CT20 Turbo if it's not spent. I would like to keep all of the OEM components, just to have.

 

I still have mine on a shelf in the garage. The oil is blow-by. I bored my engine .020" over and bought Total Seal's gapless rings. No end gapon on the rings. They overlap on the ends. This minimizes chance of blow-by. Only hard part is they have to be hand file fitted.
As far as the fans and the controller, I hooked up one fan to low speed and one fan for high speed. Used a second low speed wire to hook up to the small 8" a/c fan I have on the condenser. Need to hot wire and test it to see if it will work the way I hope. But we will see.