Doomys 87 Turbo 4runner Build thread
#461
Well. I solved the dead cylinder issue. I'll just be the bigger man a s say that the issue DEFINATELY wasn't (sacrasm) my terrible wiring job. We'll say it was the cap and rotor...yeah, the cap and rotor was the issue. Problem solved!...
ok, maybe it WAS the fact that the injector pigtail I crimped on had pulled loose and was just being held in place with heat shrink. Which makes sense since every time I tested it it had a good connection, you lift up and it forces the tail to touch the connector, but you plug it in and the angle it bends caused the tail to pull out a bit.
anyways, I re-connected it and she fired right up and ran smooth for about 3 seconds before I realised she was puking coolant from the little hose that wraps around the thermostat. I forgot to re connect it to the TB. After pulling the intake off one more time, I have a run ing engine!
we got it timed correctly, but there is still a miss somewhere that we're not sure how to track down. Also, it sounds like a diesel. Something on the drivers side(from the sounds of it) clacks until about 1000 RPMs. Ill figure that out later. Tomorrow, though, need to figure out the miss and then the old girl will move under her power for the first time in...6 years, almost.
pics and videos as usual.
hopefully this is the last time I take this intake off. You can see the hose I forgot to re-attach between the thermostat and the #1 injector.
This is what greeted me when I removed the electrical tape. I thought I had done so good before!
All back together.
And a success beer! Well, it's a tecate, so it still tastes like failure, but it's what I had on hand in the shop.
Video showing that timing is spot on.
video showing the miss as of right now. Where should I look for it at?
ok, maybe it WAS the fact that the injector pigtail I crimped on had pulled loose and was just being held in place with heat shrink. Which makes sense since every time I tested it it had a good connection, you lift up and it forces the tail to touch the connector, but you plug it in and the angle it bends caused the tail to pull out a bit.
anyways, I re-connected it and she fired right up and ran smooth for about 3 seconds before I realised she was puking coolant from the little hose that wraps around the thermostat. I forgot to re connect it to the TB. After pulling the intake off one more time, I have a run ing engine!
we got it timed correctly, but there is still a miss somewhere that we're not sure how to track down. Also, it sounds like a diesel. Something on the drivers side(from the sounds of it) clacks until about 1000 RPMs. Ill figure that out later. Tomorrow, though, need to figure out the miss and then the old girl will move under her power for the first time in...6 years, almost.
pics and videos as usual.
hopefully this is the last time I take this intake off. You can see the hose I forgot to re-attach between the thermostat and the #1 injector.
This is what greeted me when I removed the electrical tape. I thought I had done so good before!
All back together.
And a success beer! Well, it's a tecate, so it still tastes like failure, but it's what I had on hand in the shop.
Video showing that timing is spot on.
video showing the miss as of right now. Where should I look for it at?
#462
Registered User
Congratulations, SJ! Your tenacity is paying off.
On behalf of the east coast first gen 4runner owners, we celebrate your victory.
I don't have a Tecate, but will find something else...
On behalf of the east coast first gen 4runner owners, we celebrate your victory.
I don't have a Tecate, but will find something else...
#463
Registered User
Yeah a bit early in the morning for a celebratory beer, but I'll raise my coffee cup to you. Good job, you hit some major roadblocks but kept going. Great job. The low points make the high points that much sweeter.
#464
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hendersonville NC
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I hate loose connections, they test good most of the time unfortunately.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
#465
I hate loose connections, they test good most of the time unfortunately.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
as for the current miss, sounds like the idle is just really low, maybe a vacuum leak.
also setting the timing can affect idle, idle can affect timing. I had to toy around with mine a bit.
it wouldn't hurt to go through your misfire test again by pulling the wires and see if it's an all cylinder issue or single cylinder.
did you go through and check all of your wires?
i hate crimp connections, prefer the twist on stuff like that.
strip about an inch of wire, twist together tight at a hard angle, fold back on itself, tape tight as hell, shrink wrap. I have never had a wire job fail doing it that way.
#467
Registered User
Loose bolt on the torque converter to the flex plate will make an awful noise, usually on startup, which sounds like a rod bearing. I'd check this also.
#468
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hendersonville NC
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Mine did that as well, mine was a loose valve tappet, i forgot to tighten it up.
but it sounded from up top.
i hope you get this nailed i wanna see the video of you driving it.
but it sounded from up top.
i hope you get this nailed i wanna see the video of you driving it.
#469
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sacramento, Crawlifonia
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When timing, did you make sure the engine was in diagnostic mode? I remember having problems getting a good connection when I was there trying to jump the fuel pump. Also, the valve lash seems to take practice too get perfect. I know you did it cold, but did you go with .008 and .012, or .007 and .011; I have always gone with the later, because .008 and .012 was never right. The only thing I can think of that make that rattle sound is your current exhaust. Remember that the 22r series motors will always have a slight diesel sound, which is something you get used too, but it is hard to tell in the vid. because of not muffler.
Last edited by dark_fairytales; 08-03-2017 at 02:55 PM.
#470
When timing, did you make sure the engine was in diagnostic mode? I remember having problems getting a good connection when I was there trying to jump the fuel pump. Also, the valve lash seems to take practice too get perfect. I know you did it cold, but did you go with .008 and .012, or .007 and .011; I have always gone with the later, because .008 and .012 was never right. The only thing I can think of that make that rattle sound is your current exhaust. Remember that the 22r series motors will always have a slight diesel sound, which is something you get used too, but it is hard to tell in the vid. because of not muffler.
#471
Registered User
Not saying i think its a rod bearing...saying loose converter bolts sound like rod bearings!!
#473
didnt get a whole lot done yesterday. messed around with the vacuum lines abit, but it didnt change anything. I also got the trans dipstick spaced out a little bit away from the O2 sensor with a few washers, removed the heat shield for the rear heater lines, and bent the heat shield that is right along the frame since they were touching the downpipe. It didnt fix the clack clack diesel noise, unfortunately. it still sounds like its coming from the passenger side only. the only other leak i have to take care of is a small leak from the turbo oil feed line, but couldnt get to it since i had been running the motor before hand and it was burning my hand being so close to the turbo and down pipe.
#474
been thinking a lot on this. i think that the clacking sound might be from the A/C Brackets. i dont know 100% if all of the bolts are in. as for the miss, i dont remember the timing moving at all. youre supposed to warm it up and then set the base timing at 5* with the jumper in. but when i put the jumper in the timing didnt change. so, im wondering if the knock sensor is picking up the clacking noise and retarding it,
#475
Registered User
I had to fidget around with a paperclip jumper quite a bit to get mine to respond when setting the timing. Ultimately it did respond and i set it at 8* advanced. Keep trying. I wonder what mode it goes into with the knock sensor disconnected?
#477
Kinda upset right now. Started out the night by getting the drivers wheel off and tightening the turbo oil line. I think that's cleared up, so no more leaks there. Got the water refilled in the radiator and got the oil topped off. Did a complete all-around of all lights, signals and electrics in general. Everything is good except for the front passenger turn signal. Need a new bulb.
next step was going to be checking the ATF since it did leak a bit out. So with the truck running, I had doomy put the truck in reverse with her foot firmly planted on the brake. Yea...the truck didn't like that. Engine started bucking real bad as soon as the RPMs dropped and as soon as she put it back into park, it died. Tried to start it a few times and it just sounded horrible. Like a deep metallic thunking noise. And then......the starter spun up but no engagement on the flywheel. Just a whirring noise.
so, either I munched the teeth off the bendix, the bendix isn't engaging, or I stripped teeth from the flywheel. Gonna wait for the motor to cool enough to pull the starter and have a look. If the starter is shot, I've got a brand new one ready to go in. If the flywheel is shot...its game over. I will have to tap out and rush to get the Honda registered and drivable(I hate that car).
next step was going to be checking the ATF since it did leak a bit out. So with the truck running, I had doomy put the truck in reverse with her foot firmly planted on the brake. Yea...the truck didn't like that. Engine started bucking real bad as soon as the RPMs dropped and as soon as she put it back into park, it died. Tried to start it a few times and it just sounded horrible. Like a deep metallic thunking noise. And then......the starter spun up but no engagement on the flywheel. Just a whirring noise.
so, either I munched the teeth off the bendix, the bendix isn't engaging, or I stripped teeth from the flywheel. Gonna wait for the motor to cool enough to pull the starter and have a look. If the starter is shot, I've got a brand new one ready to go in. If the flywheel is shot...its game over. I will have to tap out and rush to get the Honda registered and drivable(I hate that car).