Hello Yotatech,
It's been a while since I've posted here but I just recently picked up a 1985 Toyota Pickup 4x4 with a 22r and 5 speed and 140k miles. My new roomates dad had it and was reluctant but ready to get rid of it. It's not perfect by any means but he bought it new in 1985 and for the most part rust free, which is rare for here in the midwest! The license plates date back to 1998 so that's when it was parked because he said it started to run rough because of a timing issue. The owner said he started it back up in the early 2000s but it has been sitting inside since. I bought the pickup without checking if the engine was seized in thoughts that there's no way it would be since it had been sitting inside for nearly 20 years, but unfortunately I was wrong, it's seized. I've tore into it enough to get the carb off, valve cover (in case I need to pull the head), and pulled the plugs. I put a mixture of kerosene and ATF inside of each one of the cylinders and put the plugs back in partially. I figure I'll let it sit for several days then try to rock it back and forth in gear to see if I can break the engine loose.

Everything I've tried on this thing works still, including ALL of the lights and the radio! I'm hoping for the best when it comes to breaking this engine free because I really don't want to have to purchase a new engine. Do any of you have any suggestions on breaking the engine free without totally screwing everything else up. I really thought about engaging the starter yesterday but I told myself I need to have some patience.



This is right after I towed it home. Dirty, but still awesome. It was sitting in a Quonset with farm equipment. Even 1 tire was still inflated from roughly 15 years ago. Look at that beautiful 4runner in the background!!




There's the 22r. I haven't owned a vehicle with a carb before and I've never rebuilt or even adjusted one. Also pulling the carb I felt like I was pulling off 100 vacuum hoses. It will be a learning experience.



What do you think of this spark plug? What is the green stuff on the electrode. Note: I did change the coolant and it was green.




Underneath the valve covers look really clean. I was hoping if there was a head gasket failure it would show here but I don't think so.

A couple things I don't have pictures of is the interior and the battery tray. The battery tray is almost gone because of corrosion from the old battery. I'll get pictures of those soon.

 

Patience grasshoppa. If you can get your hands on some sort of bore scope Then take a look inside at all 4 cylinder walls.
If it looks OK then try turning the crank, in small increments and look again. Repeat until you have done most of a full rotation of the pistons.

 

So I was able to get the engine free to a certain extent. It's as if I can roll it clockwise or counter-clockwise a full turn until it stops. I can't hear any metal on metal contact but there's definitely something stopping the full rotation. Yes, the truck is in neutral, am I missing something here?

Everything I've seen on the internet basically says that the 22r is an interference and non-interference motor. The PO said he had it running roughly 15 years ago and didn't say anything of it coming to a screeching halt. Anyone got any ideas here? I think I am going to try pulling the valve covers tomorrow to see if anything is wrong with the timing chain. Maybe there is something with the timing chain I'm not seeing with the valve cover on it.

 

Likely a valve or 2 stuck open. Preventing complete rotation.

 

I have never seen a distributor cover like that. Looks neat. Good luck with the engine. Take it slow and check the valves.

 

Every old timer I know suggests putting marvel in the cylinders and letting it sit in there a week. It'll break free and probably run shortly after

 

An excellent plan , but it won't likely help with any stuck valves.

Each valve should be rapped gently on the top of the spring keeper when that valve is off its cam lobe.

A brass punch is best. All valves should give a little and rebound onto their seat.

Any valve that shows gross excessive lash clearance when off its cam lobe is stuck at least partly open, and may not let the piston pass.

If the engine is cranked with the starter, that valve will be bent. Proceed with caution!!

 

Upon inspection underneath the valve cover, all springs look like they are fully extended. I did not, however, try to jiggle any of the rocker arms to see if there is a play in any of them. I rented a borescope from autozone last night but it was very difficult to see what was going on in there. Next time I will try it in the daylight and take the rag off of the intake plenum so hopefully it'll let some light in.

How do you give an even blow to the spring keepers with the rocker arm right in the way?

 

Set the crank to mid stroke, to avoid impacting a piston. Apply pressure to the rocker on top of the valve, or better slide the rocker out of the way squirt with the solvent and ATF mixture and then tap them with the brass drift.

You really should have checked the free space the first time, it's the reason you were in there not to just look and guesstimate "it looks OK"..
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I just had the same issue. I have a rebuilt 20/22r that had been sitting in storage for five years. I did the marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and attempted to turn the crank by hand. It would only go about 270° and then stop. I pulled the valve cover, dropped some ATF on the top of the valve springs and rotated some more. I tapped the top of the springs lightly with a small dead blow when off cam and it turns over very well now. Thanks fellas! It doesn't look like it but this motor has less than a half hour on it.

 

Thanks for the replies. Next plan is to rotate crank so pistons are all aligned mid stroke, and drop some WD-40 or ATF inside of the valve springs to loosen them up. I'll take a hammer or punch to each of them to see if I can free them up if they are sticky. I'll update the thread after I do this, hopefully I'll have made some progress!