Ok so i blew the bottom end of the 22re in my 1990 toyota 4x4. I've got a 22r motor now, that ran good when it had the 22r head on it with the carb intake, but now im trying to put the 22re head on it so i can hookup my intake my EFI, my question is will the 22re head work the on the 22r motor? the heads look very similar, the 22r had a dual row timing chain so i switched the sprocket over to the 22re head and it fits well. The block on the 22r looks like it has the domed pistons, unlike the the block i pulled the head off.. i have no way of knowin what year the 22r is, do they sell a EFI intake that will fit on the 22r head? i just want to keep my efi and get it running good again. How can i tell if the head is compatible? I would hate to put the head from my RE on the 22r and have it mess something up, whats the best way to go about this???

 

welcome to the fourm! this is a good link

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=103547

also you can find everything you need here! best of luck!

https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?do=process

 

the 22re head you have will not work on the 81-83 block you have now. 81-83 had the dual row timing chain and a shorter deck height.

that link above is talking about a pre 85 block (which you have) and a 20r head which is not an option for you if you want to use efi.

 

yes im trying to do the same thing here is my situation.....i have a blowed 93 22re im pulling that motor to replace it with a i think 83 22r(not sure about your but for sure a 22r) and i plan to put 22re intake on 22r motor to make it fuel injected...will this work?

 

the intake manifold gasket on the head side is the same from 83-95, I don't see why it would not bolt up. BUt don't forget you will have to convert the 22r head over to efi as well by removing the fuel pump ad using the block off plate. You should be able to keep the fuel pump cam in there, but I am not 100% sure if the 22r cam is gonna like the efi setup. I am pretty sure it will be fine but not 100%. That would be something to look into. So I figured I would throw it out there.

 

so switch head and all?...or i guess better question what would you do? lol

 

head will not swap. look at my sig, that would tell you what I would do.

 

Mods, can we PLEASE have a sticky FAQ for n00bs?

(like Mud has?)

 

I vote for a bigger search button.

however the answer to this question

Is right here in this very thread !!!!!!!!

Maybe we need to put a link to hooked on phonics instead.

 

1985! Great Scott!

All 20 and 22R's up to 84 have a tall deck.

In 1985, Toyota de-decked the 22R block...

All R and RE heads have the same thickness... So... You can NOT mix and match some heads.

Leave 20 and 22R blocks and heads made up to 84 alone, and 85 and up leave them alone.

LC's site is down, I'll add a link when it's up.

Here's a piece of it. Pay close attention to the numbers.

http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote49.htm

And how could you miss this one?

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...re+differences

 

Ok so I will be doing this and wanted to know if anyone else has successfully done so.

I have the 81-82 22r block and rotating assembly
I have the 85 22re head with crawler cam and adjustable timing gear

Quote from LC:

Deck height on a cylinder head is the distance between the bottom of the "Camshaft Journal" to the "Surface of the Cylinder Head" itself. Toyota 20R, 22R and 22RE cylinder heads have these factory deck heights:

Early 20r/22R Heads 75-84 3.290"
Late 22R/22RE Heads 85-95 3.130"


so with the head height change I will be getting the 83-84 single row long timing chain and quite possibly a half link depending on the tensioner (this is most likely, 1/8" + difference in the two heights)

also I will have the machine shop chop the domes off for a true flat top piston, with valve relief's. Cheaper then a set of customs with the added benefit of 10.5:1 CR (~10.3:1 dynamic, according to the calculator)



anyway, is there anything else I'm missing?

 

Will not work if it's a post 85 style head. How many times is this gonna have to be said.

CHOP THE HEAD OFF ON DOME PISTONS ???? WTF????

Now I have heard everything. What reputable machine shop even consider doing that hack job?

YOU CANNOT put a 85+ head onto a pre-85 block and vise versa. DO NOT EVEN TRY.

 

or do if you want but when you crank it over you wont like what you hear. will just the intake bolt up? if it does use the r head or whole motor with your efi intake and swap cams

 

I've measured the dome distance after the cut and it is still .200" thick in the thinnest part.

This has been done in chevy's and fords for a long time for the quench and other clearances. Plus there will be valve relief's cut in the standard place of the RE piston. All clearances will be checked and then checked again.

The real reason i want to do this is because of the higher compression ratio. Get rid of the "Dish" of 2cc's and boost compression to around 11:1.

Apparently I will be the only one to do this. When the machine shop finishes turning the crank, I will be able to order bearings and start the ball rolling.

I respect your opinion xxxtreme22r, I really do. But if the valves can be made to clear and the piston is still thick where it counts (the center), then what will I gain? Higher compression, more ponies and lighter pistons with long skirts.

Updates to come to a separate thread once I start building.

 

Oh almost forgot.....

look at the Keith Black hyper high compression piston tops.... almost flat with small valve relief's

If he can do it why not?

 

Just don't come back here complaining the engine isn't running right or when you blow a hole through the piston.

If you want a true high compression motor do it the right way 20r head port and polished on a pre 85 shortblock. I do not see stock hacked on pistons able to hold 11:1 anyway. Your talking alot of heat etc etc for a cast piston to hold. Kieth black pistons are NOT cast they are hyper.

If it was possible or a good idea, then it would have been done by now and you wouldn't be the only one trying it. And the head isn't the one that is shorter its the block. As far as I know the head height is the same.

22r's have been around longer then you have probably been alive and I am 100% positive if this was a good idea it would have been tried already.

 

EDIT: nevermind that, you are using the pre-85 pistons anyway. wrist pin location would be correct.

 

Yup wrist pin location... I didn't want to just deck the block and end up with a stock 22RE when it was all said and done.

Sorry if I upset you, this is not a forum for such things.

And as far as the 11:1, I'm not completely sold on that number. Different calculators, Different numbers. Most ended up between 10-11:1 depending on, I think, mostly on the formula's they were using. Plus I used a .040 over bore which always boosts compression a little bit (a very little bit).

 

I'm very interested in seeing how this build come out I've had the exact idea. Keep me posted ie

 

Im running an 82 dual row chain with an 83 block bored .020 with domed pistons and an 87 efi top end (intake, head, header) no problem for years smog legal in california. Ive go a 50 state legal lc header with an slp loudmouth 2 billet highflow race muffler and have good flow no problems, tweaked my maf a few notches and never had any problems here.