84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Hey look! I can see the ground!

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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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84YotaBuck's Avatar
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From: Bremerton, WA
Hey look! I can see the ground!

Through my floor that is. Pulled up my carpet cause it's been wet and look what I find, after I chopped the worst of the rust out. Any recommendations on size of metal to use to patch it. Was thinking 1/16", maybe I'll go 1/8", never patched a floor before, this ought to be fun, can't be worse than patching my frame.

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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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From: Tacoma, WA
Holy Buckets! I've never patched a floor before. I would guess thicker is better, right? Geez, good luck.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Yea man good luck !! and luckily you didnt fall thru ..
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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From: Vian, OK
well if you go too thick it will look stupid LOL

go with something the same thickness or close to it.

make sure you cut out alllllll of the rust though dude
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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thicker is better...especially since you are dealing with a body mount right there

chip out all the sound deadening material..more than you already have...it likes to catch fire
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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oh well yea forgot about the body mount..LMAO
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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go with metal with similar thickness as the original metal, its hard to weld thick to thin ya know.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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Whew, Im glad i live in texas!! When I first got on this site, I was scared to death to pull up my carpet!! But when I did I was happy, the only rust I got is surface rust on my bed floor!!

As for thickness, like they said, maybe a little thicker than stock would be good, while you are there you may want to check the passenger side too!
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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It's hard welding that stuff period. It's so thin you constantly burn through. Anyways, finished welding in a patch and am now painting/undercoating everything, what a pain in the A$$, I hate rust!
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 05:45 AM
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You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most.

Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger.

Fill up the seams with seam sealer, hit it with some Rustoleum inside and out, 3M undercoating on the outside, done.

Last edited by rworegon; Aug 14, 2014 at 06:05 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 06:54 AM
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From: Knoxville, TN
nice^^
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most.

Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger.
added to my 'good ideas' sticky in 1st Gen folder

Last edited by rworegon; Aug 14, 2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:14 AM
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Man that looks great I have the exact same problem on the pass side, thanks for the ideas!!
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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i do car interiors for a living, and believe me, we see this a lot. it might sound crazy, but the best way to repair it is to just get some thin sheet metal and screw/rivet/weld it around the hole, putting silicone inbetween them. after that dries, we usually lay down some fiberglass resin and cloth along the whole section of affected floorpan, this ensures the rust won't run as much and elimintates most weak points in the future. sometimes, we even skip the first step and just do fiberglass, but only on cars with small rust holes, you'd be surprised how strong 1/4 inch of fiberglass is.
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