infiltrator

oh wow, that sounds like a better deal with those polk audio speakers. 1/2 off another set is cool too. and tweeters too! awesome!

okay, i want that remote! thats pretty freakin cool man. okay, you said that wiring goes on the right side under the plastic on the side, i know where that is, but am gonna need help, pictures would be awesome. but since its down the left side, im going to have to wire the right speaker across the dash right?

and then you said "power on the right side" by that you mean the 4 channel amplifier? am i going to have to run everything on the left side and then change over? why is this?

once again man, i really thank you for putting so much time into just my speakers. i would never have guessed anyone would help me like this...

i should be getting my money probably in a week or so, so ill buy the speakers, and hopefully have time before my college classes start to get the tunes bumpin.

OSIRIS

Where will you keep your amps? First figure that out. Then you will run the speaker wire from where ever the amp is located to the left side (driver's side) of the vehicle and around to each of the speakers. That means that the right side front speaker wire will go past the driver seat/door along with the left side front speaker wire and then will travel under the dash to the right side where the speaker is.

Power is referring to power connections. Positive battery, negative battery (ground) will be running down the right side of the vehicle from the battery to where the amps are located. The idea is to keep the power connections away from the speaker connections where possible to ensure there is no engine noise or interference.

It's not just speakers. It is your listening environment while you are spending the time to drive somewhere, so having something you like and enjoy is worth getting it right. I'm sure in Cali, you are stuck in traffic a bit. Having a nice system to help pass the time can go a long way towards keeping the sanity in check.

Osiris

infiltrator

id like to do my amps the same way you did yours, in those cargo areas.

this is how i think you did it and the easiest way (please correct me if i am mistaken which i probably am)

front speakers, cut out the a whole big enough for them to fit, screw them in, and wire both together the right speaker across the dash (under the headunit and above the pedals.

wire both of the speakers down the left side of the vehicle, down to the 4 channel amp (which is on the left side right?) connect those 2 speakers in with the amp that is drilled into the cargo area.

replace the back speakers and use the brackets to mount them if needed.
run the right speaker in the back over the bridge where the tweeters are and connect the back ones to the amp. tweeters, i imagine can be hooked up to that 4 channel amp too?

then comes power options.
run both amps for power (the left amp above the bridged gap where the tweeters are, meet up with the right, ground them, and then run them up to where they connect with teh battery (i have no clue how they connect to the battery lol!)

connect the 2 channel amp on the right side to the subs through positive/neg wires on each of the amps (unless speaker box has those connections routed already in which case i would run the wires to the speak box output/input.

put the panels back on and play with my remote. :]?

am hope i am not totally out of proportion here. ive never done electrical work on cars or delt with amps/ etc. so make sure to talk to me like your talking to a 4th grader lol (maybe not that bad).

OSIRIS

In a nutshell, you're right. I did put my amps in the cargo area and wired just as you described.

You do not cut anything for the front speakers to fit. You take the stock speakers out of its little speaker box and replace with new one.

You will have to use the brackets to install the rear cargo area speakers. Make sure they give you the correct speaker brackets. I think I got door brackets, but I made them work. They are different than the ones in the pictures on Crutchfield.

I can help you with wiring and all.

You will do it in stages. First get all the front panels off to remove the stereo and front speakers. Then install your new speakers up front and run the speaker wire from the front speakers to the left door area. Now install your new stereo and run your RCA connectors w/remote turn on from the stereo towards the driver's door w/the speaker wires and on to the back. Then you can put the middle console and left console back. You are done with that area. Work your way back with the wires to the rear seat. You can put your driver's side door jams back together. Then I would run the Power and negative cables from the engine bay now and down the right side of the car along the door jams. Do not hook them up to the battery at this point. You are just placing them in their location. Hooking them up to power is the last step. While you have the right side of the door jams and glove box still off, run the 'remote bass level' wire (it will look like a black telephone line) from under the dash or where ever you choose to have it located. It is long enough to run from the front dash to the right and all the way down to the sub amp which will be located in the right rear cargo box. After you run your power and bass remote line, you can put the glove box back together and the door jam pieces back together. Then you are left with the rear.

I will get into that on the next post. It is not bad either. You will be able to does this without a problem.

Osiris

infiltrator

okay, we will talk more detailed when i get the equip in, or when its shipped. give me a week maybe? im not sure how long... im sure you understand.

infiltrator

hey osiris, i was debating if my battery could run all of the 1700 watts with my runner.

posted this q on yotatech and a couple ppl said to use a "Capacitor" and that it would put less pressure on the alternator and the batter.

did you do this?

when i put my now speakers up high, the light kind of dims a bit when the beat comes... i dunno, if you did it, let me know how you did it... im clueless....

OSIRIS

I did not get a capacitor. I looked into the need for one and found that I did not need it. I would install everything and find out how it works at that time. I found out that my alternator plug that provides voltage back to the battery and the car as it runs was corroded and thus it will have a LOT of resistance. You may find that yours is the same and that is why you are having some voltage issues right now with your current system. I changed the wire going from the alternator to batttery and that cleared everything up. I had a wire laying around so it cost me nothing. I only needed to do about 6"-12" from the alternator to the wiring harness and that is all.

All a capacitor does is absorb energy and expend energy really fast so the point of one is to hold and store energy (voltage and amperage) and release it as it is needed by the amp when the battery cannot keep up. You would put it in-line with your positive power cable between the battery and power amp.

Personally, I would spend about $35 or less and do the BIG 3 or 4 wire upgrade. It is your alternator to battery connection, negative battery to chasis groung, chasis to engine block ground and your negative battery to engine block ground. This should solve your problem. Capacitors get expensive and this fix goes across the board at solving problems vs. just dealing with stereo. What about when you put on your turn signal? Does the voltage jump up and down with each blink? If it does, then the capacitor would not fix that, but the BIG 3/4 WIRE UPGRADE would as well as potentially solving your problem with power consumption for the stereo.

do a search for big 3 wire upgrade.
Joe

OSIRIS

check this one out. This is the idea and maybe you can follow it.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...riendly-76382/

Joe

infiltrator

mmm i got paid a few days ago, still waiting for part 2 of it... then i can buy speakers. good thing is my buddy told me that he would give me his 5 channel amp and 12'' sub, so i am free from that. he has it in his car, which has reallly good sound, so i can save myself hundreds lol. if it doesnt work, ill end up buyinga better 5 channel amp and sub, and swap.


long time no talk lol. this thread has been dead. when i order the speakers and wire ill message you, just wanted to fill you in on whats up.

infiltrator

FINALLY!!!

im so sorry, my life has been really busy, and one money sucking PITA!

i finally bought my db6500 and db401! from crutchfield!
i should be getting it soon, then the real questions will be comming!!

the db6500 came with "crossovers" and i am trying to research this...
i guess the make the sound in tune with the other speakers? hmmm

WCorbett

Anybody know what the two upper rear corner speackers are? no the two right next two the cargo light, I dont have those, I mean the corners. thanks.

24Runna

WCorbett, I'm pretty sure they are a vent.

infiltrator

tweeters bud....

WCorbett

1" then? im not to speacker savvy

infiltrator

should be

amgraham

The crossovers filter the frequencies so the tweeters get just the high end and the woofers just get the low end. They're really easy to wire up.

24Runna

Hes talking about the grille in the corner, on mine they are a vent and the grille in the middle up by the rear window are the tweeters.

infiltrator

vent for a/c?... that would be stupid if it was... lol

aviator

Nah its not for AC those vents are "body vents" that allow air to move in and out of the cab otherwise you would'nt be able to open/close the doors... aviator

infiltrator

yay! i got my speakers in today!

wow crutchfield is great. they sent me a whole installation guide for my 4runner, and shows how to take everything off, and where the screws are!!!

now i need help with wiring?
i was gonna buy it online, but i dont have the funds...
will 10 guage wiring work?