Need some car audio help
#1
Need some car audio help
OK...I just ordered a new 1200W (1600W peak) Infinity Class D Mono Amp off of my discount page from Circuit City...I am currently running 8 gauge power wire...will I need to increase that power wire to a 4 gauge? I don't want to burn anything up...what do you guys think?
Thanks for the help!
Fink
Thanks for the help!
Fink
#2
It depends of course on the length of the wire. If the amp is in the back of the truck, I would recommend at least 4 gauge, maybe 2, but those are just guesses. Even though it's class D, that amp is going to be quite a drain on your electrical system...
#3
Originally Posted by Amacfarl
It depends of course on the length of the wire. If the amp is in the back of the truck, I would recommend at least 4 gauge, maybe 2, but those are just guesses. Even though it's class D, that amp is going to be quite a drain on your electrical system...
#4
http://paudio.tripod.com/wiregauge.html hopefully that will help
#6
You are going to all ghetto loud? Or normal listening volume? 8 gauge is fine if it's the latter one. The benefit of higher gauge is not worth the expense and particularly the effort of ripping stuff apart and drilling bigger holes. The idea of overloading that wire and burning anything is borderlining on ridiculous.
#7
Something to point out...
When using idotmyi's linked graph, note that it's referring to the current that the amp draw from the DC side. "1200W" is an audio OUTPUT rating for the amp - check the amp specs to see what it's INPUT requirements are.
When using idotmyi's linked graph, note that it's referring to the current that the amp draw from the DC side. "1200W" is an audio OUTPUT rating for the amp - check the amp specs to see what it's INPUT requirements are.
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#8
Originally Posted by 4RUNR
You are going to all ghetto loud? Or normal listening volume? 8 gauge is fine if it's the latter one. The benefit of higher gauge is not worth the expense and particularly the effort of ripping stuff apart and drilling bigger holes. The idea of overloading that wire and burning anything is borderlining on ridiculous.
I just want to be on the safe side in case something DOES go wrong and the wires get overloaded.
Fink
#9
I would go 4g wire or mabe even 2/0g if you can afford it and a cap for that amp. Check out my page since I have a very simmilar setup (1200 watt amp with cap under pasanger seat). The cap really does help with that kind of power as does an optima baterie.
#11
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Williams Lake B.C.
Hey Fink
Definately run 4 gauge wire...i have a buddy that has a 900 RMS pheniox amp and i looked at it today and his amp was heating up bad and cutting out due to the amp trying to get enough current going to it but not getting it from the 8 gauge wire he has...it was over working itself and this was al a lower volume...i have an 1100 RMS (2400 peak) memphis amp and i have 4 gauge with a cap and no problems
cody
Definately run 4 gauge wire...i have a buddy that has a 900 RMS pheniox amp and i looked at it today and his amp was heating up bad and cutting out due to the amp trying to get enough current going to it but not getting it from the 8 gauge wire he has...it was over working itself and this was al a lower volume...i have an 1100 RMS (2400 peak) memphis amp and i have 4 gauge with a cap and no problems
cody
#13
I would get a cap but it is really easy to add one later. The general rule I have been told is to have one ferod per 500 watts rms. I would suspect that you will get a little headlight dimming when you turn up the bass without a cap. Mabe a lot.
#17
Well Im running a 1/0 guage power wire (actually gonna be changed to welding wire) into a Batcap 400 (a fancy capacitor that runs about $200) into 2 sepreate amps one that puts out 1200 watts and one that puts out 600 watts. I dont slam my sounds to often, but when I do I experince major power/ voltage loss. I run a digtal voltameter in my truck which normaly sits at 14.2 volts, but when I slam it goes to low 11 volts. Dont ask me what the problome is, the only thing I can think of is that crappy 60 amp alternator that toyota adds stock. When I can afford to replace my alternator Im gonna smash the stock one with a hammer
#18
OK, I'll look at the caps that we have at Circuit City and see what kinda discount I can get on em.
I guess there wouldn't be a downside to going with 2 gauge power wire, just the fact that we'll have to make bigger holes and it might be harder to get it run throughout the vehicle. I'll ask my buddy that put my system in and see what he says, he knows a crap load about this stuff.
Thanks for all the help guys, this is great!

Fink
I guess there wouldn't be a downside to going with 2 gauge power wire, just the fact that we'll have to make bigger holes and it might be harder to get it run throughout the vehicle. I'll ask my buddy that put my system in and see what he says, he knows a crap load about this stuff.
Thanks for all the help guys, this is great!

Fink
#19
Hey Fink, I have a brand new stinger cap 1 farad with a Voltage LED if you are interested. I think I have pics somewhere, I will have to look. I could hook you up for about 70 bones or so. Since I've added an optima and 200 amp alt, I never needed to install it. Let me know.
#20
Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
Well Im running a 1/0 guage power wire (actually gonna be changed to welding wire) into a Batcap 400 (a fancy capacitor that runs about $200) into 2 sepreate amps one that puts out 1200 watts and one that puts out 600 watts. I dont slam my sounds to often, but when I do I experince major power/ voltage loss. I run a digtal voltameter in my truck which normaly sits at 14.2 volts, but when I slam it goes to low 11 volts. Dont ask me what the problome is, the only thing I can think of is that crappy 60 amp alternator that toyota adds stock. When I can afford to replace my alternator Im gonna smash the stock one with a hammer 



