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Dual Batteries Installation

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Old May 31, 2005 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
Originally Posted by Gangus2006
ลลลล that wont help me, since I need to have the key to ACC to bump the system....argh..


on that pix, just connect the ACC wire to the IGN ON CIRCUIT...

plain and simple...

so apparently, you wish to listen to stereo when the engine aint running?
Old May 31, 2005 | 06:43 PM
  #22  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Nope, I disagree. I think you do need (2) alike batteries if you are going to have them in parallel w/ the Painless kit as when hooked up if they are not equal batteries one will drain the other and they won't work together. If you got to buy (2) anyway, get (2) alike....I got (3) alike!


so how come a red top is paralled with a yellow?

in theory, not just the same kind of battery. but try to get the same battery off the same pallet. if not the same production line!

any diff in the batteries will have a bad effect on both. one will be lower and try to suck the juice off the other. then visa versa.

that's why i think that HELROARING product is the best, since it ISOLATES the main batt to the aux, which charging them simultaneously.

heck, if you have space, install dual alternators...
Old May 31, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ldivinag
so how come a red top is paralled with a yellow?
That was just to test the system when I was installing it as the red one was the closest one to move and I'm lazy. I have (3) yellow tops now permanently mounted if you look at the rest of the pics on my website.



Last edited by waskillywabbit; May 31, 2005 at 06:51 PM.
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 05:53 AM
  #24  
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From: Fitchburg, MA
Originally Posted by ldivinag


on that pix, just connect the ACC wire to the IGN ON CIRCUIT...

plain and simple...

so apparently, you wish to listen to stereo when the engine aint running?
Would that work with a HELLROARING isolator?
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #25  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
the hellroaring one has a circuitry built into it so this stuff is not really needed or used.

i had a long conversation with one of their sales rep a fewwwwwwww years ago, and i kinda dont remember the intricate workings of the HR unit.
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 03:50 PM
  #26  
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From: Fitchburg, MA
I drew htis diagram up based on one Hellroaring sent me. Does it look right? Where should I put my fuses?

Old Jun 3, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #27  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
most people dont put fuses.

me? i'm paranoid as heck.

i'd put a 200+ amp circuit fuse between the + of the red batt and the input of HR device.

then depending how far the yellow batt is to the HR device, i'd put another 100 (or so) circuit BREAKER. i mean if it's really close, i mean it's right next to it, it may not be needed.

then of course, from the yellow batt to the amps, fuse, fuse, fuse...
Old Jun 3, 2005 | 01:18 PM
  #28  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
for between the red batt and the HR device, this is something i would do:

http://bluesea.com/product.asp?Produ...63&l1=7463&l2=

costs around $40 or so from west marine.
Old Jun 3, 2005 | 04:40 PM
  #29  
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From: Fitchburg, MA
Yea...someone at Hellroaring suggested I fuse before and after the HR device. Thats what Ill do. Im going to have 4 or 5 High Amperage fuses under my hood lol.

As for the yellow top, itlol be mounted right next to the red top. The Optimas are approximately half the size of the original hunk of electricity.
Old Jun 3, 2005 | 05:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Gangus2006
Yea...someone at Hellroaring suggested I fuse before and after the HR device. Thats what Ill do. Im going to have 4 or 5 High Amperage fuses under my hood lol.

As for the yellow top, itlol be mounted right next to the red top. The Optimas are approximately half the size of the original hunk of electricity.
Whatever you do, make sure to post your resolution/set-up in the "Dual Batteries FAQ"

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