conflict with multiple amps? 2nd gen 4runner
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conflict with multiple amps? 2nd gen 4runner
What conflicts would I run into wiring multiple amps in my 1991 4runner? Would it be possible for me to mount one in the rear cargo storage area?
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I used to have an 87 4runner. I ran 3 amps in the rear cargo area and an electronic crossover. The only issue(s) you might have are:
1) having enough cca and ca in your battery for a lot of power.
2) the alternator handling the load (if it can't you can look into
getting a capacitor and installing it into the power line)
3) running enough power to the back on one line.
I have an 88 that I just purchased. I'm not into the stage of working on the stereo yet, but all ready have some ideas on what I want to do with it. You could make a custom amp rack for the rear cargo area. Im thinking a piece of 1/2'' thick plywood or mdf. Pad it, carpet it and attach the amps. Lay that flat then build a somewhat strong frame work to it with some 2x4 and Place another piece of plywood or mdf over it with cutouts above the amp. Use some plexiglass over the openings pad it/carpet it/light it up inside if you want. Make sure that the frame work doesn't block up against the amps so that they have ventilation room and don't over heat since you will be covering the tops of them. I also have thought that if I do this I will place two small fans on either side of the amps to help circulate the air and keep them cool. Or you could look into getting some liquid cooled (also expensive) amps. Good luck!
1) having enough cca and ca in your battery for a lot of power.
2) the alternator handling the load (if it can't you can look into
getting a capacitor and installing it into the power line)
3) running enough power to the back on one line.
I have an 88 that I just purchased. I'm not into the stage of working on the stereo yet, but all ready have some ideas on what I want to do with it. You could make a custom amp rack for the rear cargo area. Im thinking a piece of 1/2'' thick plywood or mdf. Pad it, carpet it and attach the amps. Lay that flat then build a somewhat strong frame work to it with some 2x4 and Place another piece of plywood or mdf over it with cutouts above the amp. Use some plexiglass over the openings pad it/carpet it/light it up inside if you want. Make sure that the frame work doesn't block up against the amps so that they have ventilation room and don't over heat since you will be covering the tops of them. I also have thought that if I do this I will place two small fans on either side of the amps to help circulate the air and keep them cool. Or you could look into getting some liquid cooled (also expensive) amps. Good luck!
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What amps are you going to run and what audio components do you plan to run? you shouldn't need more than 2 amps unless it's a dB comp car or a show car. Just buy good multi-channel amps. JL and Kicker make very powerful multi-channel amps.
The way I see it, you should only need a 6 channel amp for 4 speakers and 2 subs. That a very loud system if tuned correctly.
So save you money, buy quality componets and do it the right way.
just my .02
The way I see it, you should only need a 6 channel amp for 4 speakers and 2 subs. That a very loud system if tuned correctly.
So save you money, buy quality componets and do it the right way.
just my .02
Last edited by yotakid825; 03-22-2009 at 04:41 AM.
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The biggest problem you are going to run into on these trucks is the alternator. Everything else is just like any other multi-amp install. Depending on the size of amps you are going to run will depend on the size of wire you need to run and so on. We need more info about the equipment to help you further.
Thomas
Thomas
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I was only planning on running a maximum of three amps, but more likely two. I'm going to begin by putting in a Pioneer GM-5400T to start with. It's going to be used to power the 6x9's I recently put in the cargo area. My second was going to be a Pioneer GM-D7400M to power a Boston Acoustic G212SS Subwoofer (or similar). I was considering three for the fact that if I do decide to keep my Boston Acoustic 4" up front, their power handling is far below what my Pioneer 6x9's can handle. Another scenario would be putting a 6.5" component system in my front doors; in that case, I would use a 4 ch for the 6x9's and the 6.5's and a mono ch for the sub.
I had a good clue their would be an issue dealing with whether or not I'd have enough power running to power all of these amps. I just don't like the fact that capacitors tend to get pricey. One question: what exactly is a "farad"?
My last thoughts were that I may use the Pioneer GM-5400T to power a sub, and buy a 4 ch amp to power speakers (IF I do go ahead with the 6.5's).
I had a good clue their would be an issue dealing with whether or not I'd have enough power running to power all of these amps. I just don't like the fact that capacitors tend to get pricey. One question: what exactly is a "farad"?
My last thoughts were that I may use the Pioneer GM-5400T to power a sub, and buy a 4 ch amp to power speakers (IF I do go ahead with the 6.5's).
Last edited by Texas91Runner; 03-22-2009 at 06:10 PM.
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... You could make a custom amp rack for the rear cargo area. Im thinking a piece of 1/2'' thick plywood or mdf. Pad it, carpet it and attach the amps. Lay that flat then build a somewhat strong frame work to it with some 2x4 and Place another piece of plywood or mdf over it with cutouts above the amp. Use some plexiglass over the openings pad it/carpet it/light it up inside if you want. Make sure that the frame work doesn't block up against the amps so that they have ventilation room and don't over heat since you will be covering the tops of them. I also have thought that if I do this I will place two small fans on either side of the amps to help circulate the air and keep them cool. Or you could look into getting some liquid cooled (also expensive) amps. Good luck!
It'd be sweeeeeet.
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Capacitance is the capacitors ability to store charge and a farad is the unit used to measure this capacitance. A book definition of a farad is "the amount of capacitance when one coulomb of charge is stored with one volt across the plates" where a coulomb is the charge of 6.25 X 10^18 electrons (dont ask me how they figured that out).
That being said I would do a second battery before I would put a capacitor on as there is much debate on wether a capacitor helps or hurts the electrical system. The main thing to do before all of this is upgrade your alternator because no matter how many capacitors or batteries you have your system will only be as strong as your alternators charge (which is not good on these trucks, like 40-70 amps at most).
As for the speakers, the dash speakers are probably fine to run of the stereo if it is an aftermarket unit. Then you can run one 4 channel amp, 2 channels for the 6x9's and bridge the other two for the sub. This will greatly simplify the wiring and electrical needs (wont need an extra bat, smaller wire, etc.). I think you would be plenty loud enough with the 4" and 6x9's and one sub that 6.5 components in the front doors would be overkill IMO.
If you are dead set on running two amps I would run at minimum 4 ga. wire since it is going all the way back to the carg area, then with the distro block mounted as close to the amps as possible run 8 ga. to each amp. This would be the smallest I would go on wire.
Thomas
That being said I would do a second battery before I would put a capacitor on as there is much debate on wether a capacitor helps or hurts the electrical system. The main thing to do before all of this is upgrade your alternator because no matter how many capacitors or batteries you have your system will only be as strong as your alternators charge (which is not good on these trucks, like 40-70 amps at most).
As for the speakers, the dash speakers are probably fine to run of the stereo if it is an aftermarket unit. Then you can run one 4 channel amp, 2 channels for the 6x9's and bridge the other two for the sub. This will greatly simplify the wiring and electrical needs (wont need an extra bat, smaller wire, etc.). I think you would be plenty loud enough with the 4" and 6x9's and one sub that 6.5 components in the front doors would be overkill IMO.
If you are dead set on running two amps I would run at minimum 4 ga. wire since it is going all the way back to the carg area, then with the distro block mounted as close to the amps as possible run 8 ga. to each amp. This would be the smallest I would go on wire.
Thomas
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#8
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Why not get a multi channel amp? I run a 6 channel amp in my 90 4runner and it handles everything great.
I have 1 set of 5.25" components1 set of 6.25's components and 2 10" subs all running off one 1600 watt 6 channel amp set under the passenger side seat with a couple extra fans to keep it running cool all with no battery issues.
I have 1 set of 5.25" components1 set of 6.25's components and 2 10" subs all running off one 1600 watt 6 channel amp set under the passenger side seat with a couple extra fans to keep it running cool all with no battery issues.
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Capacitance is the capacitors ability to store charge and a farad is the unit used to measure this capacitance. A book definition of a farad is "the amount of capacitance when one coulomb of charge is stored with one volt across the plates" where a coulomb is the charge of 6.25 X 10^18 electrons (dont ask me how they figured that out).
That being said I would do a second battery before I would put a capacitor on as there is much debate on wether a capacitor helps or hurts the electrical system. The main thing to do before all of this is upgrade your alternator because no matter how many capacitors or batteries you have your system will only be as strong as your alternators charge (which is not good on these trucks, like 40-70 amps at most).
As for the speakers, the dash speakers are probably fine to run of the stereo if it is an aftermarket unit. Then you can run one 4 channel amp, 2 channels for the 6x9's and bridge the other two for the sub. This will greatly simplify the wiring and electrical needs (wont need an extra bat, smaller wire, etc.). I think you would be plenty loud enough with the 4" and 6x9's and one sub that 6.5 components in the front doors would be overkill IMO.
If you are dead set on running two amps I would run at minimum 4 ga. wire since it is going all the way back to the carg area, then with the distro block mounted as close to the amps as possible run 8 ga. to each amp. This would be the smallest I would go on wire.
Thomas
That being said I would do a second battery before I would put a capacitor on as there is much debate on wether a capacitor helps or hurts the electrical system. The main thing to do before all of this is upgrade your alternator because no matter how many capacitors or batteries you have your system will only be as strong as your alternators charge (which is not good on these trucks, like 40-70 amps at most).
As for the speakers, the dash speakers are probably fine to run of the stereo if it is an aftermarket unit. Then you can run one 4 channel amp, 2 channels for the 6x9's and bridge the other two for the sub. This will greatly simplify the wiring and electrical needs (wont need an extra bat, smaller wire, etc.). I think you would be plenty loud enough with the 4" and 6x9's and one sub that 6.5 components in the front doors would be overkill IMO.
If you are dead set on running two amps I would run at minimum 4 ga. wire since it is going all the way back to the carg area, then with the distro block mounted as close to the amps as possible run 8 ga. to each amp. This would be the smallest I would go on wire.
Thomas
I think for the speakers, the 4"ers should be taken out and just run 6.5" components in the doors for up front. And for the rear, run another set of 6.5" coaxials because they sound way better than 6x9"s. But don't waste your money on really good ones.
For proper sound staging only the front speakers should be amped.
So with only the front speakers amped, you only need one 4 channel amp.
If you insist on amping all the speakers, just run one 5 or 6 channel amp like harleyman said
Last edited by yotakid825; 03-22-2009 at 07:46 PM.
#10
Why not get a multi channel amp? I run a 6 channel amp in my 90 4runner and it handles everything great.
I have 1 set of 5.25" components1 set of 6.25's components and 2 10" subs all running off one 1600 watt 6 channel amp set under the passenger side seat with a couple extra fans to keep it running cool all with no battery issues.
I have 1 set of 5.25" components1 set of 6.25's components and 2 10" subs all running off one 1600 watt 6 channel amp set under the passenger side seat with a couple extra fans to keep it running cool all with no battery issues.
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I'd definitely go for the alternator first.
I can pretty much agree with that. That's a great recommendation. The only downside is that I already have the 2 ch on its way. The 6x9's and a sub amplified would be more than enough: I can agree.
I'm just a 6x9 guy. I think they put out nicer lows, in my own opinion.
I'm sort of on a tight budget, so i'm trying to do it in small steps for now. That's where the separate amps come into play..
I can pretty much agree with that. That's a great recommendation. The only downside is that I already have the 2 ch on its way. The 6x9's and a sub amplified would be more than enough: I can agree.
I'm just a 6x9 guy. I think they put out nicer lows, in my own opinion.
I'm sort of on a tight budget, so i'm trying to do it in small steps for now. That's where the separate amps come into play..
Last edited by Texas91Runner; 03-22-2009 at 07:56 PM.
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I don't care too much for the proper staging because the 4's can't put out anything close to what the 6x9's can. When I raise up the volume just a bit, I have to fade to the rear just to get a clean sound. I'm actually considering putting a high pass filter up front because the 4's can't handle the [EDIT:mids] at all.
Where did you guys put your amps?
I also wanted separate amps for the speakers and sub for more control over each on their own.
Where did you guys put your amps?
I also wanted separate amps for the speakers and sub for more control over each on their own.
Last edited by Texas91Runner; 03-23-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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Trust me staging is key to good sounding system. A really expensive system can sound like if the staging and tuning isn't right. So tuning and staging are probably the most important factors to a good sounding system.
The reason I said not to go with 6x9s is that they do produce lows. And the 4"s are too small to produce anything but highs at higher volume levels. The speakers supposed to produce highs and mids not lows. The sub(s) produce the lows, that's their only job.
When you tune your system, turn you sub off and get the speakers to sound the way you want. After you get the speaker to sound good, then you can start to introduce bass to the system.
With proper tuning you can even make a wal-mart system sound decent.
The reason I said not to go with 6x9s is that they do produce lows. And the 4"s are too small to produce anything but highs at higher volume levels. The speakers supposed to produce highs and mids not lows. The sub(s) produce the lows, that's their only job.
When you tune your system, turn you sub off and get the speakers to sound the way you want. After you get the speaker to sound good, then you can start to introduce bass to the system.
With proper tuning you can even make a wal-mart system sound decent.
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That is entirely true, my friend. I see nothing wrong with the "MIDS" the 6x9's put out though. I'll keep that tuning part in mind. I just ordered a 4ch amp to power the 6x9's and bridge for a sub, so now I have to send the other one back..
My main goal is for the 6x9's to supplement the lack of "MIDS" that the 4's can barely put out. Don't worry--I use my fader wisely (and my eq).
My main goal is for the 6x9's to supplement the lack of "MIDS" that the 4's can barely put out. Don't worry--I use my fader wisely (and my eq).
Last edited by Texas91Runner; 03-23-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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that should sound decent. have your 4's at about 1000hz-up, your 6x9's at 100hz-1000hz, and your subs at 80hz-below and it should sound pretty nice granted the 6x9's are not overpoweringly loud. I think you made a wise choice with the 4 channel. One amp is simpler for all involved.
Thomas
Thomas
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Hey TX91Runner,
Judging by you name I guessing you are in TX somewhere... if you happen to be around the Houston Area, I have one of these. (See Pic Below) It can take amp readings for just about anyting. It has been a priceless tool in the past for wiring up acc on project vehicles! As far as the system goes, good power wires and grounding is a key essential! Nothing like engine noise feedback and weak power to the amp to ruin a good system. I updated my boat system last year and used infinity reference speakers for Highs/Mids and Marine Kicker for the sub. The was impressed with the infinity speakers, they do real well at higher DB ratings and they were definatley not the highest $$ for the selection. Might be something to look into!
Judging by you name I guessing you are in TX somewhere... if you happen to be around the Houston Area, I have one of these. (See Pic Below) It can take amp readings for just about anyting. It has been a priceless tool in the past for wiring up acc on project vehicles! As far as the system goes, good power wires and grounding is a key essential! Nothing like engine noise feedback and weak power to the amp to ruin a good system. I updated my boat system last year and used infinity reference speakers for Highs/Mids and Marine Kicker for the sub. The was impressed with the infinity speakers, they do real well at higher DB ratings and they were definatley not the highest $$ for the selection. Might be something to look into!
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That's exactly how i want it! I think it's best to have the different frequencies through separate speakers. What are my options of a high pass crossover besides an electric crossover?
Yeah, it simplifies everything with a 4ch!
Yeah, it simplifies everything with a 4ch!
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Hey TX91Runner,
Judging by you name I guessing you are in TX somewhere... if you happen to be around the Houston Area, I have one of these. (See Pic Below) It can take amp readings for just about anyting. It has been a priceless tool in the past for wiring up acc on project vehicles! As far as the system goes, good power wires and grounding is a key essential! Nothing like engine noise feedback and weak power to the amp to ruin a good system. I updated my boat system last year and used infinity reference speakers for Highs/Mids and Marine Kicker for the sub. The was impressed with the infinity speakers, they do real well at higher DB ratings and they were definatley not the highest $$ for the selection. Might be something to look into!
Judging by you name I guessing you are in TX somewhere... if you happen to be around the Houston Area, I have one of these. (See Pic Below) It can take amp readings for just about anyting. It has been a priceless tool in the past for wiring up acc on project vehicles! As far as the system goes, good power wires and grounding is a key essential! Nothing like engine noise feedback and weak power to the amp to ruin a good system. I updated my boat system last year and used infinity reference speakers for Highs/Mids and Marine Kicker for the sub. The was impressed with the infinity speakers, they do real well at higher DB ratings and they were definatley not the highest $$ for the selection. Might be something to look into!
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One more thing I didnt mention earlier, make sure if you havent aleady that the 4 ch. amp you purchased has seperate filters for channels 1 and 2 and channels 3 and 4. That is, you can set high pass or low pass filters seperately on channels 1 and 2 from 3 and 4. You need this so you can turn on the low pass filter for the two channels you will bridge for your sub, then the high pass filter for the two channels you will use for your 6x9's. Otherwise if there is only one filter setting your 6x9's will hit what your sub hits(low bass they are not ment to) or your sub will hit what your 6x9's hit(higher voice frequencies that muddy the bass output). You want to avoid this at all cost or the 4 ch. amp does you no good in the application you wish to use it in.
Thomas
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The cheapest simplest way is to use bass blockers on the 4" speakers to filter out the lows. Obviously there is no fine tuning that can be done with this setup however so you are limited and "stuck with" the frequency bass blockers you buy.
One more thing I didnt mention earlier, make sure if you havent aleady that the 4 ch. amp you purchased has seperate filters for channels 1 and 2 and channels 3 and 4. That is, you can set high pass or low pass filters seperately on channels 1 and 2 from 3 and 4. You need this so you can turn on the low pass filter for the two channels you will bridge for your sub, then the high pass filter for the two channels you will use for your 6x9's. Otherwise if there is only one filter setting your 6x9's will hit what your sub hits(low bass they are not ment to) or your sub will hit what your 6x9's hit(higher voice frequencies that muddy the bass output). You want to avoid this at all cost or the 4 ch. amp does you no good in the application you wish to use it in.
Thomas
One more thing I didnt mention earlier, make sure if you havent aleady that the 4 ch. amp you purchased has seperate filters for channels 1 and 2 and channels 3 and 4. That is, you can set high pass or low pass filters seperately on channels 1 and 2 from 3 and 4. You need this so you can turn on the low pass filter for the two channels you will bridge for your sub, then the high pass filter for the two channels you will use for your 6x9's. Otherwise if there is only one filter setting your 6x9's will hit what your sub hits(low bass they are not ment to) or your sub will hit what your 6x9's hit(higher voice frequencies that muddy the bass output). You want to avoid this at all cost or the 4 ch. amp does you no good in the application you wish to use it in.
Thomas
I beat you to the punch. Thank though. I did all my research and found that it has two separate gain and hpf/lpf for each pair of channels. If you'd like to check it out, it's an Alpine MRP-F600.