First off, I'll start by saying I've read every thread I could get my hands on, here and otherwise. I'm just flat out of ideas.

85 4rnr, 22re. Just driving her down the road, then out of the blue she lost most power. No sounds, smells, shutters, anything. Pulled over, and wouldn't start. Turns over without any issue. Ended up flat towing her home. She's been running like a top until this.

All fuses are good. Swapped EFI relay, no luck. Have fuel coming out of the cold start injector, and fuel pump seems to be happy. Cap and rotor look great. Pulled valve cover, timing chain and valves look good. Replaced the plugs, and I have spark at all four. Have continuity on all 3 wires running from the ECU to the ignitor. Signal generator ohms out correctly. Swapped over coil, ignitor, ECU, rotor, and AFM from another truck, none helped. My ECU would allow another truck to start and run. I have 12v at the ballast resistor, and at all injectors. Have 12v at N10 and N20 at the ECU, and continuity between E01, E02, and ground. Also tried unplugging AFM and/or TPS, with no luck.

Right now the truck is sitting with all her own parts in. But to my mind, I have spark, fuel, timing, and air. I did finger test compression when doing the plugs, and nothing felt out of the norm.

Anyone have any other ideas? I'm plumb out.

 

Just for giggles, you could try baby feeding it, aka throw a little gas down the intake. If it stumbles/fires you know it's fuel delivery or injectors.

Seems you've covered most electronic things, so all I can think of is mechanical like fuel delivery. You'd need enough pressure and flow for the injectors to work correctly, internally they could get plugged up etc. Kind of weird for all to go bad at once though. Igniter could be bad to, was the one you swapped in the same part number? I've heard they changed the pin out a couple times.

 

I tried shooting some stating fluid down her throat yesterday, with no luck. Just tried again, and still nothing. Not even a try. The ignitor ohmed out ok per FSM tests. The other one was also off of a 85 (maybe 86?) I can feel fuel pressure in the lines, and when I cracked the fuel filter, it spirted out like a stuck pig.

One question I did have though. When the cold start injector fires, it should be firing with the other 4, correct? That's the only thing I'd really like do is throw a noid light on, but I don't have one, or really access to one. Nor a decent way to make one out of an LED or other dash light. But I also can't think that all 4 injectors died at the exact same time, especially when they all have power, and N10 and N20 do as well. You can absolutely smell fuel when I crank it for 5sec.

 

Sounds like you lost your ignition exciter or whatever it is called. It is the single most expensive part on a 22r, I'm guessing it is the same on yours as mine. I was driving down the road and it was just like someone turned the ignition off. My manual had the steps to take to test it. Here is a link to the part I am talking about:
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2997088434935063110?q=22r+ignition+exciter&safe=ac tive&biw=1600&bih=784&bav=on.2,or.&bvm=bv.15132523 2,d.cGw&tch=1&ech=1&psi=x4zdWNSYEOuM0wKt5baACQ.149 0914504132.5&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiws9a7qf_SAhWmrFQKHZS _DzAQ8wIInwEwAQ


Good luck,

grey

 

That just looks like the ignitor to me? But with more leads than I have. I did all three tests for the ignitor that my FSM has, and all three came back nominal. I didn't try to start the truck with the dizzy leads spoofed, just because I needed another set of hands for that.

 

Can you take a photo or scan the FSM. I've seen people talk about ohm readings twice, but yet no one has the specs. The newer ones don't have a ohm test, it's a signal in, signal out type of setup on them, the older ones I'd assume is the same way, but maybe I'm wrong? If you were able to swap the ecu to another machine to test, then try the ignitor on the running machine and see what happens.

I don't have any wire diagrams for this old of truck, furthest back I can get is 1990

 

I'll do you one better. Here is the link to the one I'm currently using.
http://www.truckporn.com/tech/FSM/Toyota/1985fsm.zip

Technically, it isn't an ohm test. You basically just make sure you have 12v at the positive and negative terminals at the coil when grounded to the ignitor body. The last test is to take the lead that goes to the dizzy, and put 1.5v down the pink wire from either a AA or AAA. Positive on the pink, negative on the white. Then read the voltage from negative terminal on the coil, and the body ground. Should be between 5-8v.

All three of those check out for me.

 

Just sharing my experience with my 85 two wheel drive 22R Truck.

Good luck,

grey

 

so whats the outcome ? I'm in the same situation.

 

I was going to suggest you check the fuel pump until I read your post, wow you did it all, try some starter fluid and if it turns over you could be the victim of a bad joke, is it possible someone put water in your tank?
Googer

 

 

So I've had the same issue with my 89 pickup with a efi 22re, so when I first got it the guy I bought it from told me the mechanic said it had an efi problem and would need a new efi, I towed it home and the efi fuse was blown! Truck started right up, I was laughing! Drove it 4 months with no issues, then I went to drive it down south (3000kms) and she started blowing fuses 700k in, ended up leaving it the winter because it was blowing way too many efi fuses and it was pointless stopping every 5 mins, get back after winter go to drive it back up north and it makes it almost the whole way without dying, only issue is this time it wasn't a fuse, I'm left stumped. The truck turns over fine, the fuel pump doesn't make a buzz sometimes but even when it does no luck, it could litteraly be the most random of times and I'll try to start her and bam she'll run, but then about 3 mins into running it'll suddenly die with no explanation, there's no engine light, I've checked all the wiring, tore the box off to get a better look at everything, nothing makes sense. Do I need a new EFI like the mechanic told the previous owner? Or am I plagued with the same issues as everyone else with these 22re's

 

i wonder what the mechanic meant by that? was he referring to the ecu box that controls the efi?

did you check for ecu error codes?

 

I haven't actually run a scanner on it yet, just because I don't have one with me, and im on a farm 400kms from the nearest place I could get one lol. I litteraly just got it started long enough to do some burnouts and donuts, then stopped it, started it again to watch it stop and it'll run for a bit then cut flat, like everyone else she's got fuel I smelt un burned fuel, so somethings up with the spark or a sensor is stopping it, but it used to just blow fuses now it just dies, idk man

 

Sounds like your mechanic is either an idiot or doesn't know anything about EFI systems. The whole system isn't going to be bad, maybe he used terms and it wasn't related correct in the post or something though.

Either case, blowing the EFI fuse means something on the EFI circuit is drawing too much power, or something is failing/shorting out. Could be any number of items, but pick up a wire diagram book that Toyota makes for your exact vehicle, find that EFI fuse and trace what's on it. It blowing fuses often means it's easier to track down. An issue that only happens once a month is very hard to track down. Could be as simple as o2 sensor wires melted on the exhaust and sometimes are touching and shorting in just the right conditions. Of course the computer is on that circuit too, so possible it's drawing excess power for some reason, those computers are old and capacitors generally have around a 20-30 year life span so they are past end of life.Not saying that's the problem, just an example of some causes.

Ideally you'd be able to get it in a situation where every time you turn the key on the fuse blows or move a certain wire, that way you can pin point the issue exactly. Cut wires, modified wiring, damaged wiring would be area's I'd focus on. A lot of people out there do really low grade work when it comes to wiring then 1-5+ years later their hack job becomes a problem again likely for someone else.

Good luck tracking it down, not easy to find issues like that, but it is possible. A good mechanic would at least tell you it's the fuse and it might blow again if he couldn't find the reason why the fuse was blowing.

I have a similar situation with my Ford F250, blinker fuse blows kind of randomly. I did find some hack job wiring on the driver's front blinker socket, cut all of that out and replaced the whole socket with a parts truck one which ironically had the same area worked on but the work was much better. I've had the fuse blow since then, but I don't see anywhere else where the wiring is damaged so it's one of those tricky things to track down probably. Now that I think about it.... the washer sprayer motor is hack job wired in (and doesn't even work lol) and it goes in around the steering column, probably relates to my problem.

 

yea sweet man I'll check that out, not my mechanic but the guy who I bought the truck from, it was a 1 time owner bought off the lot in 89, drove his whole life till it started dying, guy obviously had no clue about cars cause his mechanic told him it'd be a $4000 bill for a new efi, and he installed a blackout switch on the truck too to cut all power, (must've had a battery draining issue) the o2 sensor is litteraly tie wired to the exhaust, but when I wiggle it the truck doesn't die, so I ruled that out, but I'll look into it again. It's very irregular, everyone says theirs dies at certain times, mine just dies when it feels like it. I'll take a peek at it. Thanks really appreciate it! Hopefully the comments keep coming cause I'm not familiar with toyotas at all I work on old muscle and gm 😂

 

you don't need a scanner to read the error codes on 22re:

https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...es/index.shtml

i doubt that is going to help with blown fuses, but it will come in handy later

 

I see. That o2 sensor kind of screams it's a problem with how you described it. Disconnect it, move the wiring to a safe area and drive it for a bit and see if you notice any difference. You'll consume more fuel, rich a bit rich, but it shouldn't randomly die on you, that should NEVER happen, anyone that has engines stalling on them and it's not from letting the clutch out too fast has some sort of issue with their vehicle. The air flow meter I'd guess is a common one as it's a mechanical part that works similar to a TPS, but the air moves it instead of the throttle cable. If it has a bad spot or a dead spot, it could suddenly tell the computer there's no air going into the engine (aka no air = no fuel to inject) and it stalls or stumbles (lean).

The way it sounds with the o2 sensor, you might need a bung welded in the exhaust and a fair chance a new o2 sensor. Bad data in, bad data out, o2 sensors aren't designed with an exhaust leak if I'm understanding what you're saying.

As far as codes, I'm not sure if it applies to all vehicles, but some OBD1 systems only give a code while a fault is present, shut off the engine and restart clears the codes. You'd also get a check engine light from the code being set. If the EFI fuse is blowing though, that kills power to the computer and resets the codes, so probably not going to be too helpful there I'd assume. OBD1 systems you jump a couple pins in the port and count the check engine light flashes for what the codes are. That's from back in the day when you didn't need scanners and specialized electronics to work on your vehicle.

 

I'm not even gonna kid I undid the tie wire pulled it off it ran stopped started, I blew it out and then re wired it back on started the truck and left it running to see when it'd die, but it didn't so maybe it's fixed?

 

Probably best to post pics of the setup, it sounds really jerry rigged up, but it's hard to know what it looks like with out photos. The o2 sensor is really critical to have right, like if it makes the computer correct the fueling to be too lean it could destroy the engine. Generally they make the engine run rich when they go bad from what I've seen though, but that's still wasted money on fuel. Long term of running rich can create excess wear on the rings and lower compression, get raw fuel in the oil which can make the engine bearings wear faster. If the o2 sensor is bad, it's better to run with it disconnected short term than to try to use bad data. If it's good, then the computer uses it to adjust the fueling to be just right so you have good power and also good mpg. The o2 sensor is a part that basically needs a special tool to check out, if you replace it, only use the OEM branded ones, not sure what those ran for sure, but don't throw like a bosch o2 sensor in, that can make it not fuel right because the calibration isn't correct to what the computer expects.

Been a long time since I worked with OBD1 systems (not a mechanic as well), I don't recall if there's a simple way to check if the computer is going into closed loop (aka reading the o2 sensor to make the adjustments), that might require a scanner.

We've only really talked about one sensor this whole time, but o2 sensor is a common one for that fuse in the demo derby community, they cut the wires and leave the wires long enough to touch the exhaust, then the exhaust burns through the insulation and shorts the wire out. I can't really think of anything else that's on the same circuit that would be a common item to create a short though except maybe a failing coil that's failing as a short. Generally those are pretty consistent with temp though, like run 10 mins, heat gets into it and you loose spark, let it cool off and it's good to go again.

I think we might be on a solid target though with the o2 sensor.