YodaPala

question: I have a dual voice coil subwoofer and want to hook up two amps to this one subwoofer. both amps are idenical. one amp to power one voice coil and the other amp to power to other voive coil. Is this ok to do?

YodaPala

Bump puh de buhmp

schmooot

yes. Hook one amp up to each voice coil. Make sure the settings are the same on both amps and you shouldn't have any problems

drpdmazda

why would you want to do that?

yotakid825

X2! sounds like a good way to seriously decrease the live a that sub. even though the amps are the same and on the same settings, they are a tiny bit different on the inside. NO mass produced product is exactly the same.
If you want more power to the sub, wire the voice coils parallel.

YodaPala

I got two smaller amps. If I hook them up like this I will get a true 872 watts to the sub. I'm hopin it'll slam

eighty5yota

basically youll fry everything in the sub..

im not sure what sub you have but if its dual voice coil then its expensive, well ill rephrase its a higher quality component so you dont wanna blow her up.


ill try and simplify this cause im typing with one hand (xfer case accident)

the sub is rated in with 2 different numbers one represented by RMS and one usually MAX

rms is recommended amperage is usually 50% of the max power

and max is what we call "when lightning strikes"

the amplifier or subwoofer will only hit this peak power just before total meltdown


say a sub is rated at 1000w max
so that would be 500w rms.
same with the amp..

it will take a 2000w amp to make 1000w of rms power.

the sub you have was NOT designed to have that much power to one voice coil.
dual voice coils subs are intended to either have both the voice coils bridged to a single amp

or daisy chained between 2 subs and 2 amps

get a power distribution block and bridge the AMPS together and have a single positive and negative from the now dual amps to the sub that has both voice coils bridged.

that is the key to getting the high Db's and the SPL
(sound pressure level)=efficiency


dont put an amp on each voice coil just bridge the amps and bridge the voice coils and hook up like normal.. it might work the other way but youll fry everything and it will sound like poop.


hope this helped..



happy disturbin the peace

bigt

i have 2 kickers amps strapped together banging the snot outta 2 dvc cvr 12 inch kickers

DAM i miss that them but i love my tow dolly!

YodaPala

Its a Rockford fosgate punch power dvc 12. From the late ninetees( the good ) Max is 2000 watts rms is 1000watts. Can you recommend a distribution block to use? Is it a block that justmates everything together or does it have electronic internals in it, I'm soooo kontoozed

drpdmazda

regardless of if the amps are the " exact " same make and model they are not going to be able to run identical power, frequency etc. you will do more harm than good by hooking up one amp to each voice coil. not to mention it will sound like crap. it will be physically impossible to make those amps gain setting match identically. you will most likely end up running more power to one voice coil therefore making both coils move at different times. end result will be a blown sub, fried amp or worse your entire system will fizzle and sizzle. i would really not suggest that you do it. try to either sell both of the smaller matching amps to buy one decent large amp or just use one of the amps to power the sub. you are just going to open up a can of worms by trying to do what you are asking

VSU_4runnin

random ? but has anyone heard of a power surge in 3rd gen 4runners when they start. Ive got an alpine head unit and just a few weeks ago it started acting up. If i take the faceplate off, then turn the truck on battery power, then put the plate back on it works perfectly goes up to the loud volumes everything is perfect, but once I start the truck regardless of the faceplate being on or off, the volume wont go above an average volume, i cant even hear it on the highway. what happends is i turn up the vol. and it goes to complete static and gets quiet until i turn it down, is it a surge in the truck or should i just look at replacing this older head unit?

eighty5yota

sounds like your wires are old or too long (excess wire acts like an antenna for static) less is more with systems.. run your lengths but keep as little as you can.. or you have a bad ground as far as your head unit goes.. my motto is when the buttons start wearing off its time to upgrade, plus there is some killer improvements in technology nowadays

eighty5yota

and about the block.. no circuits or internal guts, just a tech name for a splitter.

any good stereo shop will have them. not best buy or circuit city

tell them you want something to split your 12v hots so you can run 2 amps..

theyll know what you mean

drpdmazda

you can get a ditsribution block at best buy or circuit city, hell you can get one at wal mart. doesnt have to be a " good " stereo shop, a distribution block is the same no matter where you buy it in most cases

VSU_4runnin

well ive taken it all apart and found something odd. When i have the truck on i.e running off the engin and turn it to a semi loud volume, good for driving with wiindows down it is quiet and staticy, but then i cut the engine off to battery power.. acc or ext, it clears up almost immediately, what in the hell is going on? i think tomorow im gonna steal my fraternity brothers head unit out of his jetta to see if that one works....