ok then no 5 channel amp. get two amps 1 four channel and the other a hi output 2 channel, then you can wire the subs better, but with the subs Im bout 98% sure your gonna want a 4 OHM sub then wire it accordingly to get a 1 OHM setup. the reason for the two amps though is so they will support the subs running at 1ohm like you wanted. however if you can settle for 2 ohm you buy the 2ohm subs and run them parrell in wiring, this way you can settle on a not so pricey amp and still get great spl and sound quality. theres a ton of learning to do for you

 

2 4ohm 12's in parallel will give you 2ohm. (thats what I would run)

2 dual coil (4ohm per coil) all in parallel will give you 1 ohm.

The closer to the impedance rating of the amp you get, you will get more distortion, the lower you go in impedance the louder the sub will seem. It's almost a trade-off. Although if your not running the amp at full gain you might be able to negate some of the distortion. However running at 1ohm for an extended period of time will heat up the amp considerably, especially if it's all it can handle.

 

Thats correct! ^ thats what i was tryin to say but couldnt remeber the damn word COIL haha

 

oh that really help alot cool thanks

 

i have this one in my 'runner:

http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-5350A-5...item27afdef125

that's not my auction, but i got mine on ebay, refurbed direct from infinity.

it's a great amp for the money, particularly when you have limited space for equipment. 4 channels for the corners, 1 channel for the sub. built in x-overs.

HOWEVER - what's wrong with your 10" tube? that should deliver bass as tight as you want. the trick to using a tube, particularly in a hatchback like a 4runner, is to

A) point the thing into a rear corner, mounting it just a couple inches from tailgate.
B) set your x-over to no more than 80hz. this will give you that low end punch you want. get your mid bass from some decent 6x9s in the rear seat side panels.

if your tube is still connected, try this before you replace it. could save you some $$.

i had a self-amp'd 8" Bazooka; moved it through 3 different vehicles, and the bass was tight in every one of them. but "corner loading" is essential for installation.

 

well it not tight it very boomy it sound good in my civic hatch but not all that great in the runner

 

if you don't want "boom", as in "muddy" bass, you want a small sealed box with no ports.

but make sure your x-over is set low enough. that's usually the culprit if it sounds too muddy. best way is have a friend sit in the back with the hatch closed, and tweak the x-over settings while you listen from the front seat. start from the lowest, like 30hz and slowly go up til it gets muddy, then back off a bit.

you should be able to get the sound you want from that tube, and not have to soak up cargo space with a box. tubes remove so easily when you need space. a box is a PITA.

good luck man!

 

Currently setting up a JL Audio 500.5 in my 2door I'll probably post up some build pics in a month been laying down some dynamat in it right now.

 

so if i have 2 12 sub that is 4 ohm and wire it down to 2 ohm how would the amp know it wire at 2 ohm

 

automatically, basically but not exactly less resistance = more power to the speaker.

 

well i got my amp today this thing is massive 27" long and 10.5" wide i hook it up to my bazooka and damn this thing sound clean
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