Solid Axle Swap Has Begun!!!!!
#81
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 398
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From: High Point, NC/School at NC State
Yea she has a three inch body lift. As for the driveshaft, we have it working fine now. Ours is the exact same setup as yours is: auto with one transfer and manual hubs. The driveshaft uses the stock CV up top, and a regular U-joint at the bottom. A CV off of an 84 or 85 has more clearance and will work better, but ours seems to be working. It may need some help from the dremel, but it's not going to bind up unless the front end is completely off the ground. It doesn't vibrate in 4WD on the road. Ohe thing that helped is that the axle is moved 1-1/2 inches forward from stock. You can mount the front hanger to run the axle in stock or forward location. Anyway, good luck with your build! The driveshaft is the hardest part...
#82
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 398
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From: High Point, NC/School at NC State
BTW...at one point we had a U-joint at both ends and it provided less clearance than the CV up top. It wouldn't even angle enough for us to get it on! So we had to punt again and put the CV back on. Also, our front axle is shimmed about 1/4", so that helped tremendously without messing up the alignment.
#83
HMM I guess ill just have to throw it togeather and see what happens. I have a noncv front shaft and a cv front shaft off a 97 runner. This is lame I just want a drive shaft to mainly be used for just offroad.
#84
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: High Point, NC/School at NC State
I know what you mean. Ours was a real headache. You never know exactly how it will work until you slap it on and then go twisting the front end around. When we had U-joints put on at both ends we were sure it was going to work fine and you couldn't even put it on. Good luck with it!
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