The plan right now is to get the steering settled. Markus is pulling that back end apart as well. Obviously we can't measure the camber until we have all the weight down on it, but we should be able to adjust that with shims. It's easier to work around the area with the motor out, less stuff in the way. I believe the motor is actually on it's way this week from his buddie's in Marysville. I don't think we're going to drop it in though until the rear end is done and we can move everything around a little.

However, the same point may be true of the steering since everything's going to change a LOT when we put weight on it - including the drag link angles. Hmmm Markus is talking with Jason right now about other options as well.

 

Well I have removed the two crossmembers in the rear where the suspension was. I am going to move the Gas Tank up three inches since I have a three inch body lift. This will help with the driveline clearance. Gibby has been taken pictures. I will have to work on getting them to the web. I have cleaning to do today. I will be cleaning for the next couple of days. Than I will get the brackets in place and hook up the springs and get the rear in place. Than I can start rerunning the brake lines. I will make an anti-wrap bar that runs parallel with the driveline. Than the motor will go in with the CRASH FAB motor mounts. I work on this a couple of hours a day. I am hoping to have it back on the road by the first of December, but only time can tell.

 

If we poke ya, will ya go faster

 

" We shall do no work before it's time "

 

This is a LOT more than just an SAS project though.

1. Custom HP Dana 60 front
2. Custom HP Dana 60 rear with disc brake conversion
3. SAS
4. Rear leaf spring conversion
5. 4.3 motor swap
6. Transmission change
7. Gas tank relocation
8. Custom front and rear shock system
9. Gear and locker install front and rear

December 1 might be a little early for being on the trails, but I think he can get it up to Crash by then for the wiring on the motor swap.

 

Poking is not the problem. AOR was, and now being in town is the problem. With my job, I do not get much time in the area. Plus my son, who does not live with me, takes up some time to go and see him and stuff!

 

Well I have the rear springs in place. I am going to get the rear axle set up with the new 3/4" spaces for axle wrap and keep it in line with the front end. I will put 3/4" spaces up in front end as well. All the spacers will be welded in place. I will probably move the front axle another 1.5" forward so I can clear 37's and not have to trim the fenders.

I am hoping to start the motor part of the project here shortly, than it is off the Crash Fab for the wiring! And then I will be back in the mud!

 

 

Man have I hit all the snaffoo's possible. First it was AOR, then my steering, now it is the Axle Perches. I will getting them fixed tomorrow. S&N is the bomb! Without even missing a beat they said they would fix the problem while I was there. However, now I have to take tomorrow, all day it seems like and go to Arlington. No worries though, the team at S&N will get the job done!!!

Pictures are coming soon!

 

Well the boys at S&N not only got the job done, they were quick about it. It took about an hour or so to remove the perches smooth and clean the old and new surfaces, get the pinion and perch angles set, and than welded and out the door. When I got home I installed the rear axle and boy does it look GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREAT! That Dana 60 looks BEEFY in the rear.

I am using 1/2" plate for the top plate of the flip kit. I did not roll it or weld in a support brace to keep the plate from buckling. In the rear I did and it make a big difference. So now I am taking of the front axle to put the 3/4" space in on the perch so I can clear the tie rods. I am moving faster right now, but I can only do so much right now.

 

Well, I finally have some pics for you guys, progress is being made! Here's the start of the project.

 

Markus, posing. This IS a dirty job.


The parts are starting to fall off. Markus took the approach of disconnecting the top end parts then cutting off the rest. The parts to be unbolted and removing include the drag link and tie rod, idler arm, shocks, upper A-Arm, torsion bar.

Here he is removing the torsion bar which allows the upper A-arm and everything with it to drop out of the way.


You can see it dropped down here.

 

Things are not getting cut off. Some of these IFS horns are 2 layers thick and can be a challenge to cut off. A combination of torch and cutting wheel are required. A plasma cutter would've been awesome!











It's about ready to fall. You can see it in Markus' eyes!

 

Cleaning up the mess takes a long time. Jason and Markus did a great job of getting everything cleaned up and ground off. It was much easier without a motor in. One difference here between most swaps is that the motor mounts didn't have to be retained since he's doing a motor swap as well.




It looks better now.




This picture got stuck in. I think this is the look that he's going for.

 

The front leafs and brackets are installed and the Dana 60 housing is getting in place.






We can see some problems with the steering setup that he's going to have. The tie rod will fit, but the drag link is going to hit the leaf pack.

 

Moving to the back. There is so much more clearance when the bumper is removed!




The attack of the cutting torch.




That 4 link has so many parts in the way.


Here's the rear end removed.

 

Markus is hoping for a little more articulation than my son gets.

 

 

Dale,

nice slide show. The touching part was the red chevy and the articulation of the red chevy. Tell the boy, I will be over tomorrow. I will bringing the new motor swap stuff over. You will see what is going to happen, and hopefully I will get a line on some really junk 16.5's or 17's tomorrow as well.

 

Do you want to sell your stock rear trac/panhard bar?

If so PM me. We'll give you something for it, not alot but it's better than nothing on a part no one really needs.

Shipping will be to Susanville, CA and you can just tape a label to the bare bar.