Rear bumper brackets on aftermarket swingout
#1
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Rear bumper brackets on aftermarket swingout
Ok, here's the deal: there's a pretty good chance ya'll have seen my rear swingout bumper around:
This bumper, functional yes, has been a pain in my tailgate since the day I tried to install it. Please DO NOT ask me who makes this bumper 'cause I'm not gonna tell you!!!! I'm not gonna advertise for these clowns any further.
ANYWAYS, the mounts for this bumper were completely NOT thought thru and I tried to fix this issue when I first put the bumper on but to no avail. Now, it's really a problem. These brackets mount on the outside of the framerail and use the factory bumper holes. Because of this, the rear shackles directly contact the bracket and limit spring movement. Not to mention the obnoxious CLANG I get everytime I hit a pothole or flex out on the trails.
Here's the passenger mount from the outside:
Here's the passenger mount from directly behind it looking forward:
Here's the drivers side mount as a whole:
Now, I have two ideas to fix this problem. Number ONE was to have fab'd a one (1) inch spacer for between the bracket and the frame rail and bumper and bracket like these(disregard the little swirl thingy by the sharpie marker...stupid photobucket...):
Here I just used washers to simulate:
From the bottom with washers:
Now, I'm thinking this should work, but I am worried about there not being enough support along the bottom of the frame rail since the bracket is shifted so far over. I could have that lower piece extended an inch to compensate though. Also, will this cause MORE stress to the frame rail since the "lever arm" is longer(ie-it's not up flat on the side of the frame rail but farther out)?? I did oversize the spacers as much as I thought nessasary.
Number TWO. Years ago while engrossing myself in Yota knowlege on 4crawlers(thanks again Roger!!! ) site, I found where he made a kit form for a rear swingout bumper(http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RearBumper.shtml). Now, I already had the bumper, just needed the mounts, which he sells on their own. I'm revisiting this option. These mounts are like the factory in the way they mount INSIDE the frame rails and are in NO WAY interfering with the shackels.
Basically, I need some help deciding which way I should go. Get the spacers made(yes I could do them myself but since the only "me" time I get is after 8pm using a grinder is a little frowned upon...) or dump more money into 4crawler stock? LOL!!
This bumper, functional yes, has been a pain in my tailgate since the day I tried to install it. Please DO NOT ask me who makes this bumper 'cause I'm not gonna tell you!!!! I'm not gonna advertise for these clowns any further.
ANYWAYS, the mounts for this bumper were completely NOT thought thru and I tried to fix this issue when I first put the bumper on but to no avail. Now, it's really a problem. These brackets mount on the outside of the framerail and use the factory bumper holes. Because of this, the rear shackles directly contact the bracket and limit spring movement. Not to mention the obnoxious CLANG I get everytime I hit a pothole or flex out on the trails.
Here's the passenger mount from the outside:
Here's the passenger mount from directly behind it looking forward:
Here's the drivers side mount as a whole:
Now, I have two ideas to fix this problem. Number ONE was to have fab'd a one (1) inch spacer for between the bracket and the frame rail and bumper and bracket like these(disregard the little swirl thingy by the sharpie marker...stupid photobucket...):
Here I just used washers to simulate:
From the bottom with washers:
Now, I'm thinking this should work, but I am worried about there not being enough support along the bottom of the frame rail since the bracket is shifted so far over. I could have that lower piece extended an inch to compensate though. Also, will this cause MORE stress to the frame rail since the "lever arm" is longer(ie-it's not up flat on the side of the frame rail but farther out)?? I did oversize the spacers as much as I thought nessasary.
Number TWO. Years ago while engrossing myself in Yota knowlege on 4crawlers(thanks again Roger!!! ) site, I found where he made a kit form for a rear swingout bumper(http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RearBumper.shtml). Now, I already had the bumper, just needed the mounts, which he sells on their own. I'm revisiting this option. These mounts are like the factory in the way they mount INSIDE the frame rails and are in NO WAY interfering with the shackels.
Basically, I need some help deciding which way I should go. Get the spacers made(yes I could do them myself but since the only "me" time I get is after 8pm using a grinder is a little frowned upon...) or dump more money into 4crawler stock? LOL!!
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-17-2009 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Moved pics around in photobucket
#4
Registered User
Do it right. Buy the 4crawler mounts. Believe me i push the line of ghetto fabrication on my rig and i speak with experience when i say you dont want to have a hack-job spacer weakening everything
#6
Registered User
the spacer deal seems like a quick fix maybe can be done easy with some steel tube, gussets, and a longer grade 8 bolt cheap, quick, and easy.
If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW
let me ask you something?
do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.
Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?
just looking ahead
If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW
let me ask you something?
do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.
Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?
just looking ahead
#7
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Location: Ft Collins, CO
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Logan, look in my thread and build some brackets that slide into the frame rail and weld in place. Its the only way to make it strong enough. The brackets are easy to make out of 2x3 .188 or .250 wall tubing.
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#8
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the spacer deal seems like a quick fix maybe can be done easy with some steel tube, gussets, and a longer grade 8 bolt cheap, quick, and easy.
If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW
let me ask you something?
do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.
Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?
just looking ahead
If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW
let me ask you something?
do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.
Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?
just looking ahead
Now with the premade mount from 4crawler it sits inside the framerail and wont be an issue with the current shackel/springs. However, if I slide the shackle mount back it will be in the way unless I put a body lift on and have the bumper bracket just come straight out. Like this:
Also, this mount is easily adjustable to accomodate body lifts if I put one one, by simply moving the holes and cutting down the bracket.
Indeed, that's why I was leaning towards 4crawlers design because it went into the framerails like you're saying(WHICH is why I got into an argument with those idiots the "built" this thing in the first place-yup the guy called me a liar on the phone and told me Toyota never mounted, or had, step bumpers that bolted in thru the framerails...).
#10
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p...-night-163526/
Booooo KMA, BOOOOOOOO!
#12
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Thread Starter
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Alright!! Well, I finally got my brackets from 4crawler(no thanks to the post office...lazy). So, today I took the bumper off again and ground off the old mounting brackets on the bumper itself and installed the frame brackets. Now I just have to tack it all together and slave the bumper on for clearances and I'll be able to get this done.
Last edited by BigBluePile; 09-12-2009 at 02:23 PM. Reason: I moved pics in my photobucket account
#15
nice thing is that I think I have some c-channel under my work bench that will work. just need a new drill bit..
#17
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Update, 12SEP09
Alrighty. So, I scored a 110v fluxcore wire feed welder from the local pawn shop and today tacked all the bracketry together. Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll be able to tack the bumper on the the brackets and it'll be ready for the pro's to finish welding it. I might add some gussets in places to provide more strength. I've only got ONE problem!! Because my truck DOESN'T have a body lift I can't get the frame brackets out now! lol! So, I'm either gonna have to take the body mounts apart(which I could do because I have replacement body mounts in hand, just no new hardware) and lift the body up or cut notches in the body frame to get them out.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...
As you can see, these new brackets will not interfer with the shackels anymore. I may even clear 63" chevys if I go that route.
Theres my little Schumacher EZ flux welder. Works great!
Yes, the tailgate clears when I open it.
Theres the problem, so what do you guys think?? Notch it or pop the mounts?
Nice lookin dual exhaust, eh?? For square 2.5" reciever tubing, it's definately beefier than what use to hold the bumper together.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...
As you can see, these new brackets will not interfer with the shackels anymore. I may even clear 63" chevys if I go that route.
Theres my little Schumacher EZ flux welder. Works great!
Yes, the tailgate clears when I open it.
Theres the problem, so what do you guys think?? Notch it or pop the mounts?
Nice lookin dual exhaust, eh?? For square 2.5" reciever tubing, it's definately beefier than what use to hold the bumper together.
#20
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I still have to figure out how to get the darn frame brackets out!!!