Yesterday I got some beefy bumpstops--Thanks Josh! I am just going to try finding a 2wd or some other pitman arm tomorrow at the wrecking yard.

 

Got a pitman arm for a 2wd drive at the junkyard today...just eyeballing it, it looks like it will take care of my issues.

 

Not at all an expert but the 2wd arm looks a lot smaller (thinner) will this be a weak point? Or is there just not that much stress on this part? If it works maybe a spare would be a good idea.

 

What's causing all this is people not wanting to move their steering box forward when they do a SAS. On mine it was a stock solid axle rig so I had to mount the box anyway and put it this far forward:



If you want your axle far enough forward to clear big tires it's a common problem. On mine the axle is over 3" forward from the stock location and it doesn't hit.

 

Thanks for the picture. It cleared up nothing.

Moving the box on an IFS truck when running 35's or less is a waste of time, inner fender and body mount.

That looks as flat and short as the arm I have from Poly. I have a FROR hanger and Alcans with the pin moved. Amount forward on IFS trucks is sort of fruitless. Sort of like how much over stock.

The axle does not look that far forward. I am still impressed the arm from Sky/Poly didn't do the trick. Already comes ready to plug an 80 end into.

 

Yo Adrian...so where are you hiding the pics of your truck?? Lemme see it

 

Yeah I guess you're right. Just keep banging your pitman arm and tie rod together. As long as you have smaller than 35" tires you're golden

 

RRmike-I dont want it to hit, but I only need about 3/4 inch adjustment to clear comfortably. If I was running the stock rears as I had planned I would have been more inclined to move the steerin box.

 

Actually, he doesn't hit anything, but that's cause it was built right. No need to move stuff if it works good already.

 

There are some good pics linked in my sig.

I will snap a couple new ones tomorrow, but the front axle is at powder.

With 3/4" less drop, the nut that holds the rod end into the pitman clears that frame by 3-4 RCH's.

 

I cant find them...they must be hidden in Steve's BBS

 

Marc,

Did you find that 2wd pitman arm that you were looking for? Too bad about the uptravel issue you're having. Sounds like you're getting only a little more flex compared to your IFS but that SA stability :/

 

I was talking to a front end tech today. He looked at my setup and recommended a reverse taper on my existing pitman arm so I can run the tie rod on top....has anyone done this?

Tanto- I dont really have uptravel issues...most solid axle trucks only have a few inches...

 

Never done it.

Most people talk about that when using regular/low steer instead of crossover high steer.

That that point, you ought to use a stock arm, press out the stud and invert a FROR taper in it.

I am still confused. Are these actual or perceived problems?

 

if your problem is the pitman arm or your draglink hitting the tre assembly tube why not redrill your perches and center pin hole on your flip plates to move the axle back 1/2"-1" to give enough clearence?? i think that is the easy way for you? it almost doesnt look like your 2 tubes are running parallel to one another??

 

This is actual...when I go straight up an incline with my drivers wheel the pitman hits the steering arm. It only hits the edge, and only when the wheels are pointed straight.....you can see it in this pic



I still need to try the 2wd pitman arm.

It is touching at this point

 

The 2wd pitman does not work at all...the hole with splines is way smaller....back to the drawing board.

 

Well, mine is fixed - totally tested and I'm not hitting anymore. Refer back to my pic earlier in the thread and you'll notice that I was using the stock arm and tie rod, which located the nut under the tie rod end.
So, I did get that arm from SKy with 3\4" less drop, installed that with the FJ80 tie rod end (which located the nut on top of the arm) and that gave me another 5\8" (maybe another 3\4"), so I gained at least 1.35" and I'm now in the clear!
I'll take pics tomorrow if you want, just say so.

 

I say so..thanks for the info

 

How far forward is the axle on this truck? I've only ever seen issues with interference when the steering box is in the stock position and the axle more than 1.75" or so forward. My last truck had a 3" axle relocate and I was able to make everything work by only moving the box forward a bit. I guess I'm not sure what is causing the problem. What springs are you using?

I disagree that moving the box is a bad idea or waste of time. It solves the problem and also provides an opportunity to brace the frame as well.