Wow, nice! We really need a drool smilie for this.

updated checklist progress, = done


1) mount radiator and find hoses for it

2) purchase and install new water temp gauge

3) purchase and install new radiator fans

4) finish hose clamping the silicone intake connectors

5) find better fitting hose for some of the vacuum lines

6) hook the laptop up to the fuel computer while the engine is running to find out why it idled great but wanted to die when the throttle was pressed

7) flush and fill the trans/tcase oil

8) flush and fill the rear diff

9) recheck critical systems, ie brakes and steering (havent done steering yet)

10) fab exhaust from 3in mandrel bends i already have

11) install wideband O2 monitor for A/F


everything is done except putting some fans on the radiator, but its so cold out i dont really need any to just let it idle with such a nice radiator. My laptop and the MAP-ECU fuel computer are having communication problems. I think its the USB-serial adapter. It will transmit/recieve fine for ~ 5 second periods then lag out and not do anything. Because of this it has problems reading/writing files to the MAP-ECU memory so i can't really edit anything. Right now it thinks its a 4cyl engine and i can't update it so the rev's are all out of the correct range, which means its pulling fuel data from the wrong cells in the table, which makes the engine run terrible and so on and so forth and it just dies. The wideband seems to be working fine. At the very onset of cranking it up it idles good for a few seconds with an A/F of ~12 (just barely on the rich side of 14) then the MAP-ECU starts getting confused and the A/F's go crazy lean ( > 20 ) and the engine runs rough for a few seconds then dies. I ordered a PCMCIA card that has two real 9-pin serial connections which should alleviate the problem. I've read some threads on supraforums about the MAP ECU and everyone reccomends those type cards over a USB adapter, and almost no laptops ever come with 9pin serial anymore.

As a fun experiment Rob, the owner of supracharged.com, is going to try and log into my laptop over the internet and edit my idle range and sub-boost fuel map in real time with the engine running while also on the phone with me, so that it at least will idle and drive around, then i can take it to a dyno to get a pro tuner to dial in the boost ranges.

What power are you shooting for at the crank again?

Looks like you coming along nicely.

Yeah I have heard lots of bad things about USB-Serial adapters. My dad has to have a 9pin laptop for his naviagation setup on his commercial fishing boat. It took him a while to find a new laptop that had a 9 pin. Hadnt thought about the PCMIA card, that should work quite well.

for this setup at stock boost (8psi) and no intercooler id predict something like 320HP at the crank which is something around 280 at the wheels right? I have the fuel and electronics to go way beyond that but I want it reliable first and see what ~300 WHP feels like. If i think its a SANE thing to do more then i can with a simple boost controler and re-tune of the fuel map. I really think that 300 will be enough at the wheels to satisfy me, i just went with all the fancy stuff to get there because i am a control freak, i want to know every detail of whats going on under the hood and be able to control it in great detail.

Without doing some research on it specifically id say the stock turbo is good to maybe 12psi and 350 wheel HP.

here's a dyno i found from a stock turbo that had been upgraded to a 50mm impeller

from his thread:

K&N FIPK, 3inch turbo back exhaust, CT26 w/ to4e 50trim, wastegate shimmed to 10psi (creep up to 12psi by redline), lower IC hardpipe. Stock fuel, stock ignition, stock IC, no tune.

so he got 330HP @ 10-12psi (im assuming wheel HP since thats what a dyno would measure right?) on stock fuel and the stock crappy IC and just an upgraded stock turbo

I still have the stock turbo but nicer injectors and a real fuel tuning device, and a freer flowing intake and exhaust than he has. He also went the cheap-out route by just shimming the waste-gate and not installing a more reliable boost controller.

that is sick! You should swap compressors, get to 400hp, upgrade the VB and go beat up on a few SS trailblazers!

I just noticed something....I did some calculations using a 3vze with 181ci @ 5800rpm and shooting for 250hp it would require 27.5lb/min of air at 14psi....from the same compressor (T04e-50). Why the differences in power and flow rate? Maybe my VE i used of .7 was too low? Whats the 7mgte's official redline?

for a truck i'd much rather have full torque of 300 ft-lbs @ 3300 RPM than have to wait for 400ft-lbs at 4000 RPMs

i dunno how to explain those power differences between your calcs for a 3V and real dyno's for a 7M. Maybe dual cam 24valves vs single cam (per bank) 12 valves ? I thought volumetric efficiency was something you ended up with, not really something you can predict ahead of time. I don't know what the official redline is but i'd assume around 6500.

I can't upgrade the valve-body, I'm running a 5spd behind it.

Haha, this thread just offically went over my head, guess it's time to re-educate myself.

from what i understand:

volumetric efficiency is how efficient your motor is at turning availible oxygen into power (horse power). The higher your efficiency the more of the air you are pumping in gets combusted and transformed to energy along with the fuel. If the air/fuel mixture is poor or the engine not healthy ( bad piston/ring/etc ) or the timing is off you will get less than maximum efficiency but the maximum never ever gets to 100%. I'm not familiar with what common numbers are but i would gess 70% would be reasonable, as he said earlier by 0.7

What he said, and basically volumetric efficiency = (actual swept volume)/(theoretical swept volume)

And 0.7 is actually on the low side. Most books and what I've read has been telling me to use btwn 80 and 90%, but I figured the 3vze has some restrictive, old heads, with only 2 valves... If I remember correctly, the volumetric efficiency changes as the engine increases in RPM. Usually peak VE occurs at peak torque where the engine is sweeping its peak volume of air, relative to what it should be sweeping. Above and below that point rpm wise it doesnt move as much as it should be given that rpm.

I think Garrett's site, which is what i used for the most part for my calculations, may have a huge fudge factor in to get a good portion more air in than needed... Which is why im reading a few books about turbo charging too.

Bah come on Jeremy you KNOW you want to toss a 88mm turbo on it! You know it would sound like a jet engine when it was spooling up! jk hehe

cute little turbo

me-so-horny!

What is that a 91mm or 100+mm turbo?

i think its like a 106 or something retarded, its twice as tall as a soda can

I just noticed....the turbo inlet size is big enough that it would eat his fist!!

What engine is that? The intake is on the wrong side to be a 2jz or 7m... 1jz doesnt have the displacement to spool that turbo, and well aside from a 4.0 I6 chrysler I cant think of anything....maybe an older I6 ford?

i have no idea what kind of engine that is, its definetly NOT toyota though

Is it an I8 with 2 plugs per cylinder or I4 with 4 plugs per cylinder?

My guess is a heavily modified 3RZ... LCE claims you can get 1,200 hp from them

If that is the car I think it is. Its a rotary powered BMW from OZ. The sticker on the window seems to be the same name. I could however be wrong as it wouldnt be the first time.

Heres a article on it but I believe this was its old setup?

http://www.mazdarotary.net/queenstbmw.htm