Cost of SASing an 02 Runner
#161
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
If you want to talk about the rig for conditions, then the swapped 3rd Gen is wrong for all of them.
Get an old rig from the big 3. It has power and fenders to hack for clearance. Either that or a Jeep.
Some of this is not beating a dead horse. This is specific to one man's inquiry about his truck.
SteveO, thanks man. The funny thing is I get a kick out of you too.
Pay someone else to hang a solid axle. Leaves should suffice for stiff, throttle down non-crawling. Then leave it open so the wheel spin in your front end will nuke the stock 44 u-joints.
Get an old rig from the big 3. It has power and fenders to hack for clearance. Either that or a Jeep.
Some of this is not beating a dead horse. This is specific to one man's inquiry about his truck.
SteveO, thanks man. The funny thing is I get a kick out of you too.
Pay someone else to hang a solid axle. Leaves should suffice for stiff, throttle down non-crawling. Then leave it open so the wheel spin in your front end will nuke the stock 44 u-joints.
In all honesty buy a 2004 Jeep TJ RUBICON, Front Dana 44, Rear Dana 44, Dual factory lockers and a 4 to 1 transfer case.
I'm sorry but this IS the best solution. Money wise.
I'm off to look at Europes finest lungs.
#164
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Pay someone else to hang a solid axle. Leaves should suffice for stiff, throttle down non-crawling. Then leave it open so the wheel spin in your front end will nuke the stock 44 u-joints.
I'm thinking a Super D44....
D44 axle housing
NEW D60 ARB center section
D 60 size axles
CTM u-joints
King Coil overs, stretching up through the fender well, into the engine compartment
modified ford locating links with rod-ends at the frame mounts
pretty psycho huh....
#165
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
In all honesty buy a 2004 Jeep TJ RUBICON, Front Dana 44, Rear Dana 44, Dual factory lockers and a 4 to 1 transfer case.
I'm sorry but this IS the best solution. Money wise.
I'm off to look at Europes finest lungs.
I'm sorry but this IS the best solution. Money wise.
I'm off to look at Europes finest lungs.
I'm sorry, but I'd have to agree with this one guys. I've seen a Rubicon with 33x12.50 boggers and a 2" spacer lift walk up some scary level 5's.
#166
Originally Posted by SteveO
Ya know, I was just thinking of something.....
What about putting an early Ford Bronco D44 up front with coil-overs? A great cushy ride, and mad flex. I know its still a SA, but the ride would be pretty nice......
What about putting an early Ford Bronco D44 up front with coil-overs? A great cushy ride, and mad flex. I know its still a SA, but the ride would be pretty nice......

#167
Wristed radius arms and coilovers make a lot of sense. It depends on which side or if both are wristed, arm length and arm angle as to if it is streetable.
Going with a Front Range housing built to the gills would still be cheaper than building that 44 you mention Steve. Dynatrac is another option.
Is this going to happen is 6 months or so? I usually have a 6 month personal window after starting threads like this to get it done.
Going with a Front Range housing built to the gills would still be cheaper than building that 44 you mention Steve. Dynatrac is another option.
Is this going to happen is 6 months or so? I usually have a 6 month personal window after starting threads like this to get it done.
#168
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Wristed radius arms and coilovers make a lot of sense. It depends on which side or if both are wristed, arm length and arm angle as to if it is streetable.
Going with a Front Range housing built to the gills would still be cheaper than building that 44 you mention Steve. Dynatrac is another option.
Is this going to happen is 6 months or so? I usually have a 6 month personal window after starting threads like this to get it done.
Going with a Front Range housing built to the gills would still be cheaper than building that 44 you mention Steve. Dynatrac is another option.
Is this going to happen is 6 months or so? I usually have a 6 month personal window after starting threads like this to get it done.
#169
yeah this is going to be this winters project ..sept is not looking to be realistic .. especially if I want to do this on a budget.
got an e-mail back from front range off road sayingthey don't do install, and recommended off road solutions for the install. I'm going to go with someone local, so that if they are bugs I can have them worked out here .. instead of having to deal with them later with someone else. He still didn't give me a cost on the parts ... so I'll e-mail him again.
got an e-mail back from front range off road sayingthey don't do install, and recommended off road solutions for the install. I'm going to go with someone local, so that if they are bugs I can have them worked out here .. instead of having to deal with them later with someone else. He still didn't give me a cost on the parts ... so I'll e-mail him again.
#170
Radius arms with coilovers is the direction my planning is leading me. I just want to be different - never seen this on a 2G - except in Holland...
BTW, I plan to wheel the piss out of the dual locked IFS in the mean time. Timeframe for swap - 18-24 months. (Hope I don't have to swap an engine within that timeframe too
)
BTW, I plan to wheel the piss out of the dual locked IFS in the mean time. Timeframe for swap - 18-24 months. (Hope I don't have to swap an engine within that timeframe too
)
#171
Originally Posted by SteveO
I have a D44 Early Bronco houseing in my garage. The guy I bought it from was planning on getting mad flex out of it. So, he took one of the radius arm attachments (at the houseing) and attached it to a sleeve that would spin on the axle tube. So, one radius arm when attached to the tube, is in reality attached to a sleeve that is wrapped around the axle houseing tube. This way, the radius arms and axle are not acting like a sway-bar, limiting the travel. With this kind of axle tube, coil-overs and straps would be the way to go. Indeed, it would be pretty expensive, but over time, I may be able to talk the boss into the build-up. I don't know about sassing it within a year, but, if I'm already breaking axles(yes, I have broken two), and I want to do more, I think a SA is in the future of the beast....
#172
Originally Posted by Albuquerque Jim
Dibs on the 7.5" ARB...I'll even help you swap the beast (I know it will happen) someday.
#173
Originally Posted by SteveO
Its and RD90 unit, pretty beefy. I was kinda surprised it survived the shockload when I broke the ORS shaft in CO. I was really worried that I may have messed up something in the ARB unit. BUT, its running great, no leaking, and lovin it.
#174
Originally Posted by Albuquerque Jim
I figure by the time you are ready to do a SAS I will be wanting 4.88's so I can go to 35's. So it all works out. I'm serious, so you can consider the cost of the ARB w/ 4.88's into your SAS budget equation.
http://www.hunt4steve.com/or/forsale/forsale.htm
MAN, there is a lot of crap on that page!
#175
shahzad you should get it done by my guy. He'll save you a lot of money, and he definitely knows his stuff.
Brian at www.jcroffroad.com
Brian at www.jcroffroad.com
#179
i know a guy sellin 37 swampers in my club for real cheap
http://www.4given4x4.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1214
http://www.4given4x4.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1214
#180
Originally Posted by sdastg1
Quick question .. with the long travel kits .. would I be able to run 37" tires?
Can the stock 7.5" diff and CV axles handle 37" tires? the answer is yes if you have an endless supply of spare parts. The IFS suspension, just barely handles 35's, considering the front SA toyota's break axles left and right on 37's, your only option is going beefier. If your intent on running 37's, then expect to build up a pair of D60 axles and a lot of cutting into your body.


