bamachem 3rd Gen Bumper w/ Tire Carrier Build-up Thread
#143
sure, when i get home. i haven't mounted the latch yet, and the wifey needed the runner to take some stuff to work today, so after those pics, i took everything back off. i'll get the latch drilled and mounted and the HDPE rail supports on there and get the welds zipped up and a coat of flat black and then snap some more pics. should have them in a few days. i also gotta get the tag mounted permanently so i can just leave the carrier on there...
#144
oh, and that is one HEAVY sum-bitch. glad i have the airbags in the back... the wheel/tire is probably 60# + and then the carrier frame is another 80# or so and i imagine the bumper is 100+...
i'll get final weights later...
i'll get final weights later...
#145
I found my new bumper lighter than stock with Hidden Hitch. I know yours and mine are different, but I thought it was interesting that the custom weighed less.
Once again, S-I-C-K
Once again, S-I-C-K
#146
Originally Posted by bamachem
you know, i really dig the bumper, but i'm just not feeling the carrier so far. i may be changing it up somewhat before i consider it complete...
#147
i think i'm gonna lop off the carrier and stack the tube and then just plate and reinforce it instead of the way it's offset now. i may leave a 1/2" of offset, but that's all it would ever need in my opinion.
i looked at the slee carrier again and it's cleaner cause it's just one round tube that goes vertical and it's all hidden by the tire.
i need to bring my tire down an inch or two and tuck it in closer to the hatch. i think that's what's throwing it off.
also, i may do away w/ that kicker on the pass side. the one behind the tag frame is fine cause it's hidden, but the one on the pass side may be a little much.
i may also go to round tube for the plate frame support and the high lift support. it's too squared and angled w/ all square tube. it needs to be smoothed out visually somewhat.
i looked at the slee carrier again and it's cleaner cause it's just one round tube that goes vertical and it's all hidden by the tire.
i need to bring my tire down an inch or two and tuck it in closer to the hatch. i think that's what's throwing it off.
also, i may do away w/ that kicker on the pass side. the one behind the tag frame is fine cause it's hidden, but the one on the pass side may be a little much.
i may also go to round tube for the plate frame support and the high lift support. it's too squared and angled w/ all square tube. it needs to be smoothed out visually somewhat.
Last edited by bamachem; Dec 6, 2005 at 07:23 AM.
#148
cut up the old carrier and salvaged the main beam and the hub plate. fabbed up another tire carrier out of 1.25" SCH40 pipe and the tag bracket out of 0.5" SCH 40 and got it on along w/ the hi-lift mount. the tire is now lower and tucked into the body more, but there's still plenty of clearance. i had to make a jig for the carrier frame cause the pipe doesn't run verticle when looking at it from the side. it actually angles outboard slightly away from the body and also triangulates to support the carrier hub plate - that was fun. it was worth it, cause now i have the look i want and didn't compromise on strength. the 2nd gen tag bracket will completely cover that pipe frame, so it won't be visible at all. the hi lift has the base plate, then an upper support that you can't see behind the tire.
[click a pic for the larger version]

[click a pic for the larger version]

Last edited by bamachem; Dec 17, 2005 at 04:23 AM.
#150
Much nicer...
I'm such a jerk though... Have you thought about leaning the tire inward to match the angle of the tailgate?
I'm such a jerk though... Have you thought about leaning the tire inward to match the angle of the tailgate?
#153
thanks. the other setup just didn't do it for me, but this one is looking much better IMO... 
the white stuff? just some spacer scraps that i wedged in there to keep it in place.
they're HDPE. i'll eventually trim them and drill/tap the rail and mount them as bumpstops.
i got a bit/tap set for the latch the other day. on the first hole, the tap broke. went back to HD and swapped it for another one. drilled a few holes and then went to tap the first one and it snapped right off too. those things are JUNK, but i can't find a 5/16-18 tap anywhere else. i now have a 3rd tap and hope to that it will hold up so that i can get the stupid latch on.

the white stuff? just some spacer scraps that i wedged in there to keep it in place.
they're HDPE. i'll eventually trim them and drill/tap the rail and mount them as bumpstops.
i got a bit/tap set for the latch the other day. on the first hole, the tap broke. went back to HD and swapped it for another one. drilled a few holes and then went to tap the first one and it snapped right off too. those things are JUNK, but i can't find a 5/16-18 tap anywhere else. i now have a 3rd tap and hope to that it will hold up so that i can get the stupid latch on.
#154
are you drilling the holes out to the right size before using the tap?
Also, if you don't have a high quality high speed steel tap, you are wasting your time.
The 1/4" NPT tap I bought was $15...one tap...so if yours was cheap $$$ that is why it snapped.
Also, if you don't have a high quality high speed steel tap, you are wasting your time.
The 1/4" NPT tap I bought was $15...one tap...so if yours was cheap $$$ that is why it snapped.
#155
yeah, it was cheap, but that's ALL i can find... that's it.
it came w/ the bit and the tap and was like $6... lol
it came w/ the bit and the tap and was like $6... lol
#157
hell. i'll just use my $6 tap to finish drilling one more stinking hole. i have two tapped w/ 4 to go. if they keep breaking, i guess i'll just keep taking them back. that's what they get for selling junk that's advertised to be HD.
thanks a bunch for the offer though, eric.
thanks a bunch for the offer though, eric.
#158
A tap that keeps breaking isn't getting you a good clean tapped hole...and you won't have a good solid latch. Find a local bolt place or specialty hardware place, that won't be open past 12 noon on Saturday, and get a good expensive high speed steel tap...it'll cost you at least $15 probably. 
I tapped my IFS box and my tap LAUGHED at the box...I heard it...it tore through that metal like a hot knife through butter and laughed.
Don't fubar a really nice bumper by using a half arse tapped hole.

I tapped my IFS box and my tap LAUGHED at the box...I heard it...it tore through that metal like a hot knife through butter and laughed.
Don't fubar a really nice bumper by using a half arse tapped hole.

Last edited by waskillywabbit; Dec 16, 2005 at 06:36 PM.
#159
naaah, i'll just get one of the good ones from work. they have tons. i'll take it back on sunday. i'm working tomorrow too.
i got all my stainless hardware there too. button-head allen screws, flat head allen screws, etc, all in stainless.
i got all my stainless hardware there too. button-head allen screws, flat head allen screws, etc, all in stainless.
#160
Originally Posted by bamachem
naaah, i'll just get one of the good ones from work. they have tons. i'll take it back on sunday. i'm working tomorrow too.
i got all my stainless hardware there too. button-head allen screws, flat head allen screws, etc, all in stainless.
i got all my stainless hardware there too. button-head allen screws, flat head allen screws, etc, all in stainless.





