Well, I am wanting to build some armor and other things for my truck. I like bits and pieces of all the different rock rails, bumpers, and so forth and so on out there but not the whole thing. So I am going to buy a tubing bender so I can build exactly what I want. So here goes with the questions:

1) With rock rails/sliders and rear bumper sliders I hace seen people and manufactures that use 1" - 1.5" round tubing. What size do you guys think they should be or better yet what size would you use if you built your own? Before you answer here is my thought. I would go with the 1.5" since it would obviously be bigger than the 1", but it would also give a nice "step" to get into the truck and also get to the basket I want to build to go ontop of my truck. The other reason I am asking this questions is that the tubing bender I am going to buy, here, comes with one die set and I would like to use 1.5" round tubing for some other stuff.

2) I have done some welding at my previous job with a 175/180 amp mig welder and they are awesome. I also have done some welding with the 220s too. However they are not cheap. According to what I want to build's thickness a 135 amp mig welder would be just fine for all but a couple of welds which would hace to have two passes to have a good structural weld. Basically I will be doing welds in the 1/8" thickness or less for a good majority of the projects, which will be round tubing to clarify. I will have about 6 welds with 1/4" thick steel no more than 4" long. These welds I can weld from both sides and bevel the seems to get a good penetrating weld. So after that lengthy explanation would a 135 amp mig welder be fine? Now I do know a guy who could weld that 1/4" with a 220 amp welder and not charge me an arm and a leg so if that is the deciding factor maybe that will help.

3) When I welded at my last job I was always using sheilding gas never flux core wire. I for that matter have never used flux core wire when welding. Is there a difference in the finished project or structural integrity with either flux core or sheilding gas welding?

4) Last but not least is a spring hanger armor question. The front spring hanger on my leaf springs obviously sits below the frame and seems like it could get hung up on stuff. Would it be advisable to weld a ramp like plate from the hanger to the frame so that the truck doesn't get hung up here but slides over it?

 

***bump***

 

I use 1.5" and 2" square tube for my sliders:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...Specifications
Also available in kit form to weld yourself:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...erZ.shtml#Kits

I imagine 135 amps is decent size, I run a 175A/220V mig and kind of wish I would have gone larger. Not so much for thicker material but duty cycle. I can hit the thermal shutdown in it w/o too much trouble. If not welding a lot, you can always let it cool in between welds.

Spring hanger plating is a good idea:

 

1. If you have a secondary use for the 1.5" dies then I think the choice is pretty clear. If you want steps make sure they stick out far enough. I have had them end up too close to the body for optimal step use.

2. The price difference between the 135 and the 175 is fairly small. I guess it comes down to how much you plan on using it and on which thickness material. If you are willing to live with the duty cycle and more passes the 135 will do fine. I would be more worried about my part getting too hot that I would want that too cool rather than running into the welder duty cycle. Also, I would guess that you wouldn't be doing nearly as much welding as Roger...

3. As I recall that flux core was for use in places outdoors where the wind was too much for the shielding gas to handle. I seem to remember flux core having slag that need to be removed...maybe. I would think that flux can perform as well as shielded gas is done properly.

Cheers,
Geoff

 

i like the offroad/trail light mounted under the truck!

very nice, good idea

inexpensive GE lights too, rugged, yet if they break cheap to replace