the one i made, LOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTSSSSSSSSSS of INFO

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-155339/

 

im rockin a "0-3" donahoe coil-over set up in the front and to replace the uppers i did that with a camberg uni-ball set up, holy smokes. night and day from stock! in the rear i am just running some piggy backs from donahoe. the entire set up set me back about 2300 so not that bad. i put in the uppers myself its not that hard a little pain in the butt to try and get the stock uppers out but with the persuader ( the sludge hammer ) they came out no problem! ive got some amazing air on that truck even with just the replacement shocks prior to the uppers being done. if youd like to take a look at her in actions take a look at myspace.com/donahoeyota

 

2000 4Runner-
Front: ToyTec 3" adjustable Coilovers w Bilstein 5100s (600 lbs) red
Rear: OME 890 Coils and Pro Comp 9000 shocks

(ToyTec's Ultimate Lift kit for 96-02 4Runners)

2.5 inches of lift in front and 3 inches in the rear. Running 285 75 R16 BFG A/T KOs

Installation: If you have read other threads concerning the OEM shocks then you already know they are a PITA to take off. Ended up putting channel locks on the shock body and twisting them off. Mine were rusted and Liquid Wrench did not work. Once they were off, coils went in easy and we had to load up the springs on each side to get the new shocks on and bolt up the sway bar. I did not remove my spare tire.

For the front, Tear down was easy. Had to get three of us to put pressure on the LCA to get the lower shock bolt to slide in with the new COs. I broke both Sway Bar End Links when I got the impact wrench on them. They were quite rusted and didnt have much left to them. Replaced those the next morning.

Diff Drop was the easiest part of entire installation.

Overall, from tear down to complete it took 4.5 hours. Thats with getting distracted from customers in the shop.

Ride: First day I felt everything settling in. Rear coils have settled nicely and now match the front better. Close to stock ride, with any lift there is more body roll from changed center of gravity. Also on first day, broke the inner CV half shaft boot and now leaking grease, though angle of CVs arent that bad. No rubbing during highway driving or turning with 28575s.

Looks: I am happy with lift height and ride. Daily I get compliments on how nice my
4Runner looks.

 

I got a 2000 Toyota Tacoma xtraCab. 4wd. 4cylinder automatic. I want a good solid lift kit around 4" that I can easily fit and 4wheel with 33" BFG mud terrains. Any suggestions would help. Money really isn't an issue

 

Im a beginner at this but i got a toyota 4runner and i want to put a 2.5 or 3.5 in lift kit on it. my question is how would i go a by it and what do i need? also what size BFG tires mud terrain do i need?

 

does anyone know if stock upper control arms are side specific? and how do i tell which side is which?

 

I am wanting to install a 7" lift, wheel spacers, cutout fender flares, and 37" tires. I have a '85 DLX 4runner. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

this thread is really helping me thanks guys!

 

I figured the FAQ would be the best place for this since I'm sure this has already been answered in some way. I'm going to be lifting my truck soon. What I'm wondering is what my truck will look like if I hold off on buying bigger tires to put more money into the lift kit. I want to do a 4" lift and 31" tires, but my budget for my lift is strictly limited by the fact that I want enough left to buy tires. Basically the question is if I lift 4" and leave 27" tires on until I put away more money for new ones will it look stupid?

 

if you are that worried about it, why not buy the lift and not install it until you can afford the bigger tires?

 

Good point... Haha

 

I'm kinda re thinking some things... Would 2" ball joint spacers and adjusting the torsion bars get me to a 4 inch lift for the front?

 

yes a 2 in ball joint spacer will clear 33s and 35s ( with some hammering). There is a guy in my club running 33 x 12.5 x 15s on stock rims with no lift. All he did was hammer the pinch weld in the wheel well area.

 

Ok. I've heard that using spacers will eat up ball joints. Is there any truth to it?

 

Yes there is truth to it, but only if you dont add extended shocks to accomodate the height difference. if you leave the stock length shocks and add the spacers, the lower ball joints take a beating and you will be changing them a lot. add longer shocks and you will be fine. mudhippy explains it much better than I can in thread titled " just installed daystar lift and now i have balljoint problems" or something like that. search and read. you will find it, it is a fairly recent thread

 

Ok. Thats straight forward enough for me. One last question: I want to add another inch in the rear (I can crank my t bars a little and get the front to 3" with the kit I bought) but I dont want to use blocks. I would like to use shackles if I can. Does anyone make shackles that will give me that last inch in the rear?

 

heres one option on shocks
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...shocks-267013/
here is the thread I was talking about explaining the ball joint failure, if you use stock shocks
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...joints-269220/
here are some shackles:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml
here are some ball joint spacers:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml

 

Make your own. It's super easy and much cheaper than buying them. Remember, for every 2 inches in extra shackle length, you get 1" of lift.

 

wanna get rid of my 4in body lift and fully torqued torsion bars and put a suspension lift on it. i found this off t4r.org with the pro comp ES3000 shocks http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/toyota-...4wd-p4000.aspx would anyone else recommend anything else, on a cheap budget also

 

If I have 2" BJ spacers on my 93 pickup will my CV joints bind if I crank the torsion bars another inch or so? I have some 1.5" blocks I want to put in the back but I dont want to have to buy a drop down kit to level it.