4x4DemonWithin

When i had my 22re rebuilt i threw a mild cam in it and it was bored out .40 over stock, other than that the truck is completely stock.

the guys at the shop that did the rebuild said i should not have any heat issues with the cam/bore...well they were wrong as i have replaced/tested/upgraded/fixed any thing that has to do with the cooling system of my truck.

narrowed it down to my fan clutch not engaging soon enough to keep my engine from over heating. i have thrown 3 different brand new clutch fans in, all of them did the infamous roar on a cold start so i know they were functional, its just they would never engage after the initial cold start and eventually my truck would over heat.

i dont have the money to invest in an electric fan setup, and i am staying away from the direct bolt on flex fan's<--as i do the occasional submarine run.

the only other alternative is a non thermal fan clutch but the local shops can not find one for my truck....

so i am going to try and rig my current thermal clutch fan by rotating the little heater core thingymajig in the center to have the fan always engaged,whats the difference between that and a flex fan...well the flex part. the stock plastic isnt going to jam into my radiator when i hit the water.

or just end up welding it together to be one solid piece!

so to the coolant additive part.

the guy at the local shop that was looking for a non thermal fan clutch for me came to me with a bottle of hy-per lube super coolant.

i am looking for info on the product, does it work? it says it can drop the temp by 20 degrees F. is there any reason not to use it besides the obvious drop in normal operating temp<----witch mine runs hot,so thats not an issue.

i only plan on droping this stuff in if i still run hot after the fan clutch mod or i get my hands on a non thermal fan clutch.

so i am looking for your guys' personal experience with this stuff, did it actually drop the temp, did it clog anything up? things like that.

4x4DemonWithin

http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature...t_results.html

just came across this. looks like it might do the trick if need be.

still would like to hear from personal experience's!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Those "drop your coolant temp by XX degrees" will help overheating in marginal cases. I run Redline Water Wetter in my 22RE. But in a thermostat controlled engine, the t-stat controls the engine temp, so you won't be dropping 20F or whatever unless you change the t-stat. I also find the stock Aisin fan clutch works the best and you can change out the silicone oil to a thicker kind for more lockup at higher temps:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Docs/FanClutch.pdf

Teuf

I though 210-212 was a normal engine temp?

PismoJoe

Really? I thought that you wanted to be around 190....180 being ideal. Our Chevy runs at 200 sometimes and that scares me (454ci so it gets up there sitting at a light), I think around 210 or 212 is hot IMO.

Also, Aisin fan clutches are the way to go!

Teuf

you talkin engine or coolent temp?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

scribed. Curious to find out some more info. Also i second the aisin fan clutch. Just replaced mine and the 22re runs perfect.

PismoJoe

I was talkin coolant temp...but I realize now that you were talking about engine temp lol

Mic09dcsm

E-fan, expensive? Heard of the Taurus or Topaz fan from a junkyard? Pretty good fans from what I hear.

4x4DemonWithin

yes if heard of the tuaras fan and what not, if i could find one id probably look into it but.... also it never occurred to me that the coolant additive wouldnt do squat if you dont match it with the right thermostat, makes perfect since though.

ive been working on this problem since my rebuild witch was bout a year ago and ive tried a number of different fan clutches i do believe i ordered an asin unit and it still didnt do what i needed.

as 4crawler mentioned i could build one with the heavier substance, but at this point i just dont want to invest any more time or money into a thermal fan clutch.

im hunting a non thermal one down atm. and if i cant seem to find one of those ill be rigging my Hayden thermal fan clutch to be always engaged. either by welding it to one solid piece or messing with the heater core on the front of the clutch.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The t-stat is rated around 190F on the 22RE, pretty common temp. This is the temperature it opens, but the actual coolant temperature will be somewhat higher. So with a 190F t-stat, 200-210 would be typical. Cooling systems are pressurized and with good antifreeze mix, won't boil until you hit 240+.

Many of those coolant additives are like a super soap (surfactant in tech. speak) and they help the coolant stick to the metal and not cavitate as easy. As long as you have coolant in contact with metal, the heat is transferred away, but get cavitation at some point, you no longer have metal-liquid contact a then the metal can get hot at that point.

94sasyota

lce makes a low temp stat i think it 180 you could try that.But if it gets cold were you live the motor might not run that well.

4x4DemonWithin

well i was just thinking if the t stat opens at a certain temp its not going to close until it is cool enough to do so. soo... that means the super coolant additive will work just fine for my situation because my thermostat is open becuase im up over the temp, and the additive can help keep me reaching overheating status.


does any one have a link to a non-thermal fan clutch for an 88 22re.
i still cant seem to find one?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Don't think I have ever seen one like that. Easy way to make one is take an old one, drill a few holes through it and stick in a few bolts. That will lock it up tight. Note that the fan running only helps at slow speeds. Above about 25 or so, there should be enough natural air flow to make the fan ineffective. Not sure what driving conditions cause your overheating, but if it is at speed, fan mods won't do much for you.

4x4DemonWithin

but if it is at speed, fan mods won't do much for you.

so your saying an always engaged fan wont keep my engine cool when im out flyin on the back roads?

thats assuming the fan works...witch is my problem for some damn reason no matter what fan clutch i put on my rig, weather im going slow or fast my temp gauge slowly keeps rising till eventually overheating. and its becuase my fan clutch will not engage after the initial cold start. that is why im looking for a non thermal fan clutch, so its always engaged and constantly cooling my engine not waiting till i get to hot then cool it off.

the only way i keep from overheating atm is a couple minute trip down the main roads usually works,constantly moving at 35mph or so and not pushing the rps's too high and not getting stuck when i go out wheelin' but thats not any fun!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sounds a lot like the issue I was having, mine would overheat in outside temps over 75F and if driving 65+ or at RPMs of 3500+ or up steeper grades. On hills, I found if I shifted to a higher gear, dropping the RPMs, would also drop the temperature. This is opposite of what you would expect with a lower gear/higher RPMs putting less load on the engine and giving more coolant flow. But my problem was a partially clogged radiator that did not flow well enough at the higher RPMs (higher coolant flow rates) and when you got over some flow threshold, cooling efficiency dropped off a cliff. Drop the flow rate below that threshold and it ran normally. After trying an electric fan, a new NAPA fan clutch, various coolant additives and re-doing the fan shroud, I finally put a new 3-row radiator in there and cooling problems vanished.

4x4DemonWithin

hmm i guess i might of clogged her up the last couple times i went out, but i was having this problem even before i had a shop do a complete cooling system diag. and they said the rad was fine.....it should be it was brand new when i did the rebuild.

thanx for all the help i should be able to post back in a day or two and let you guys know if the non thermal or modified fan clutch worked.


also atm i busted the stud in my exhaust were my o2 sensor mounts<--damn rust bucket, so im dealing with that too.

abeD85flatbed

I ran the super-coolant and it helped a little. The final cure for me was a quart of lucas oil in the crank case. that stuff is liquid gold IMHO. Before going to the lucas oil I tried the higher pressure rad. cap from a FJ80. They have one that is 13 or 16 pounds I forget which. The increase in pressure in the system raises the boiling point of your coolant. Eventually went with a three core radiator just to help out. this was after gutting the thermostat and running it just as a restricter plate. If you can find a high flow thermostat they work really well.

4x4DemonWithin

so i could not find a non thermal clutch fan and i decided to see if taking the heater coil out and twisting that little mechanism would work and it did,

my fan clutch seems to be always engaged witch is what i wanted...but i broke the stud trying to replace my o2 sensor then when i was uninstalling my down pipe i bent the stud on the manifold so i cant test overheating problems till i get that all fixed.

i am currently looking for any ca legal headers that will fit a 4x4 22re~

casster

I've dealt with heat issues on my 94 3.slow when I had a stock radiator and the Lucas did drop the heat to an acceptable level. I've since replaced the engine and went with headers to eliminate the cross pipe and an aluminum 3 row radiator electric two speed fan setup. The aluminum 3 row would most likely solve your problem, it's just a fair amount of ca$h.