Rubicon Express vs. Johnny Joints??
#4
I believe they have similar degrees of articulation, but the Currie ones will last a lot longer, and will not clunk like the RE ones are prone to. I speaking from experience with numerous jeeps with RE stuff and others that use Clayton's Long Arms with Currie ones.
John Currie invented the Johnny Joint (hence the name) and he knows his stuff.
John Currie invented the Johnny Joint (hence the name) and he knows his stuff.
Last edited by anestech*; Oct 31, 2004 at 01:51 PM.
#5
That's what I wanted to know! They appeared to be the same type of joint, so knowing that one is a lot more durable is exactly what I was looking for.
Spidertrax appears to use the RE joints and not the Johnny Joints, but the guys above said he used the Johnnyj joints. I wonder if they do both??
Chris
Spidertrax appears to use the RE joints and not the Johnny Joints, but the guys above said he used the Johnnyj joints. I wonder if they do both??
Chris
#7
Originally Posted by ravencr
Spidertrax appears to use the RE joints and not the Johnny Joints, but the guys above said he used the Johnnyj joints. I wonder if they do both??
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#8

The problem with running the 3/4-16 Johnny Joint assembly is the diameter of the connecting bolt being 7/16 and if you use either weld-on assembly, you'll need to make the links to the exact length. There is no ability to do any kind of adjustment if your alignment is off.
The RE joints are easier to service, the JJ's are a PITA to assemble unless you have a press.
#9
Originally Posted by BruceTS

The problem with running the 3/4-16 Johnny Joint assembly is the diameter of the connecting bolt being 7/16 and if you use either weld-on assembly, you'll need to make the links to the exact length. There is no ability to do any kind of adjustment if your alignment is off.
The RE joints are easier to service, the JJ's are a PITA to assemble unless you have a press.
Chris
#11
When I did my research in making my rear links, I took all 3 joint designs into consideration. The RE's are a better choice, but since I wanted the ability to fine tune my suspension neither would fulfill my needs. I ended up getting these; 
The HRSMX12T Series, FK Rod Ends with Teflon Liner, since my lower links will be made to endure hard hits against the rocks, I wanted 3/4" F911 grade connecting bolts, the JJ's use a 7/16" and the RE's use a 9/16" bolt. The Teflon liners don't need any lubrication, in fact if you did, they cause premature failure.

The HRSMX12T Series, FK Rod Ends with Teflon Liner, since my lower links will be made to endure hard hits against the rocks, I wanted 3/4" F911 grade connecting bolts, the JJ's use a 7/16" and the RE's use a 9/16" bolt. The Teflon liners don't need any lubrication, in fact if you did, they cause premature failure.
#13
I had forgotten the hardware dimensional difference.
I have teflon lined Aurora's on mine.
If a person builds and mocks up before specing final links, joint selection is somewhat less critical, but as you said, the RE joints that weld on have no practical adjustment once they are burned on.
What about the notion that the RE will give some on a hit while a heim will transmit the hit to the link and the frame since there is less (no?) give.
I have teflon lined Aurora's on mine.
If a person builds and mocks up before specing final links, joint selection is somewhat less critical, but as you said, the RE joints that weld on have no practical adjustment once they are burned on.
What about the notion that the RE will give some on a hit while a heim will transmit the hit to the link and the frame since there is less (no?) give.
#14
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
What about the notion that the RE will give some on a hit while a heim will transmit the hit to the link and the frame since there is less (no?) give.
#15
Originally Posted by BruceTS
When I build my mounts, the heim joints will be protected from direct contact with the rocks. I doubt I'll ever slam the links against the rocks hard enough to break one of the rod ends. On the JJ's I'd be afraid or the wimpy 7/16" bolt shearing off. The JJ's will give more than the RE's and the heims don't give at all, but since the frame is isolated from the cab by rubber mounts there is little to no additional transmission of road noise.
Chris
#16
Not sure if I am on ignore or what.
What Bruce means is with the heims, you can adjust rotational alignment for the ends with the links. I mentioned mocking up the links and then burning on the RE joints earlier, but they have not rotational adjustment once they are on. You have to be sure the hole is in the right plane so there is no binding.
What Bruce means is with the heims, you can adjust rotational alignment for the ends with the links. I mentioned mocking up the links and then burning on the RE joints earlier, but they have not rotational adjustment once they are on. You have to be sure the hole is in the right plane so there is no binding.
#17
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Not sure if I am on ignore or what.
What Bruce means is with the heims, you can adjust rotational alignment for the ends with the links. I mentioned mocking up the links and then burning on the RE joints earlier, but they have not rotational adjustment once they are on. You have to be sure the hole is in the right plane so there is no binding.
What Bruce means is with the heims, you can adjust rotational alignment for the ends with the links. I mentioned mocking up the links and then burning on the RE joints earlier, but they have not rotational adjustment once they are on. You have to be sure the hole is in the right plane so there is no binding.
Chris
#18
I was at Tellico this weekend, and I saw some seriously cool suspension setups, and I'm wondering where people are buying all these different types of joints, & spindle looking swivel mounts, etc. Does anyone know where to find these items?
Chris
Chris


