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Rear Suspension Flex difference in a 3rd Gen 4runner...

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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 07:54 PM
  #21  
cubuff4runner's Avatar
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From: Thornton, Colorado
You will probably have to switch over to a hoop mount shock instead of a stud mount so that you can access the bolt. The more body lift the better too.
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #22  
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Here's a couple pics:


Fully flexed out... Rear spring removed (kinda fell out). Shocks removed. Sway bar disconnected.


Everything together (shocks/springs/etc). Sway Bar disconnected.

I'd love to see pics of what you come up with. I measured my rear flex to be at 18" (shocks on).

Last edited by montypower; Dec 9, 2005 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 06:46 AM
  #23  
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by cubuff4runner
You will probably have to switch over to a hoop mount shock instead of a stud mount so that you can access the bolt. The more body lift the better too.
Most likely that would be correct. The more space above the upper mount would be best. I might entertain doing this instead of doing angled shocks like most people do if I can find enough room up there. The shock performance would definitely be better being more vertical and further out towards the tires, that's for sure. Plus I have a 3" body lift, so it might work out just fine.

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 06:47 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by montypower
I'd love to see pics of what you come up with. I measured my rear flex to be at 18" (shocks on).
What's your current setup?

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:37 AM
  #25  
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From: Auburn, AL
Chris, shock specs:

OME HD 4Runner Compressed 12.95" Extended 21.2" Travel 8.25"

Rancho 5208-Steve has 14" and 22.5", but another site has them as
13.84" and 23.10"

Stock FJ80 Compressed 14.50" Extended 23.5" Travel 9.00"

Bilstein FJ80 Compressed 14.96" Extended 23.27" Travel 8.31"

OME Soft FJ80 Compressed 14.40" Extended 24.20" Travel 9.80"

or you could go with one of those adapters that converts the shock mount to hoops on both ends. Here is something else I came across:

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/imag...s/DCP_0811.jpg

same thing towards the bottom of this page:
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/prod...suspension.htm


Depending on what the LC coils compress to, those OME LC coils might be awesome!

Last edited by dragr1; Dec 10, 2005 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:46 AM
  #26  
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by dragr1
Chris, shock specs:

OME HD 4Runner Compressed 12.95" Extended 21.2" Travel 8.25"

Rancho 5208-Steve has 14" and 22.5", but another site has them as
13.84" and 23.10"

Stock FJ80 Compressed 14.50" Extended 23.5" Travel 9.00"

Bilstein FJ80 Compressed 14.96" Extended 23.27" Travel 8.31"

OME Soft FJ80 Compressed 14.40" Extended 24.20" Travel 9.80"

or you could go with one of those adapters that converts the shock mount to hoops on both ends. Here is something else I came across:

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/imag...s/DCP_0811.jpg

same thing towards the bottom of this page:
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/prod...suspension.htm


Depending on what the LC coils compress to, those OME LC coils might be awesome!
Brett, the only shock that would be benficial to even use is the last one, but even then, you'd probably have to move the upper shock mount up 1.45", but then the droop would be the same. Or, maybe with the LC coils mounted you could mount them in the standard location and you'll gain an additional 1.45" of droop. It all depends. This is really a trail and error test that you really need a RTI to test easily.

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:47 AM
  #27  
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From: woodstock, ga
I bet it is the panhard bar as well. It is pulling the axle to the passenger side of the vehicle. But that is just my guess, we should start wagering on it If it is the e-brake cable it is a good thing you found it now and not when you went to set it for the first time after flexing the rear out!
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:49 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ravencr
Brett, the only shock that would be benficial to even use is the last one, but even then, you'd probably have to move the upper shock mount up 1.45", but then the droop would be the same. Or, maybe with the LC coils mounted you could mount them in the standard location and you'll gain an additional 1.45" of droop. It all depends. This is really a trail and error test that you really need a RTI to test easily.

Chris

If you had a little more droop and compression, you might make it to the top of Crawfords ramp!

Have you put any miles on these springs to see if they're gonna settle at all? I hope to get mine in today.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by justinh
I bet it is the panhard bar as well. It is pulling the axle to the passenger side of the vehicle. But that is just my guess, we should start wagering on it If it is the e-brake cable it is a good thing you found it now and not when you went to set it for the first time after flexing the rear out!
I'll look at this weekend. The panhard bar has to be able to flex forward and back, which would require flex joints, which I've got on one end of mine already. I'll look at it, take some pics and see what we all think. I'm just going to disconnect the brackets that hold the e-brake in place, and see what happens.

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:52 AM
  #30  
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by dragr1
If you had a little more droop and compression, you might make it to the top of Crawfords ramp!

Have you put any miles on these springs to see if they're gonna settle at all? I hope to get mine in today.
The only way I'd probably make it to the top of the ramp is if I relocate the shocks, and have springs long enough to maintain enough pressure on the drooped wheel to maintain a fairly level cab. If I have enough travel, it might be possible, but I doubt it with the IFS. It get's so tippy. But, I do know having the softer front Tundra coil setup will help to keep the truck more level too.

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:57 AM
  #31  
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From: Auburn, AL
Originally Posted by ravencr
The only way I'd probably make it to the top of the ramp is if I relocate the shocks, and have springs long enough to maintain enough pressure on the drooped wheel to maintain a fairly level cab. If I have enough travel, it might be possible, but I doubt it with the IFS. It get's so tippy. But, I do know having the softer front Tundra coil setup will help to keep the truck more level too.

Chris

I know it's a longshot, but it would be awesome! You surprised the hell out of the jeep guys already anyway.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 08:12 AM
  #32  
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My theory is that if I can keep enough pressure on the drooped wheel (ie spring still pushing downward) and increase the flex at the same time, then the truck will remain more level and be able to essentially make it up the ramp further. Not that I want to be a ramp queen, but it does help out on the trails, that's for sure.

Chris
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
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Here's some more pics of the LC coils installed and the 95% completed rear bumper:



















Chris
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:00 AM
  #34  
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Hey dude,

Well, It actually turned out to be the panhard bar on my truck. My truck sat 1-2 inches lower on the DS because of the overall tension of the rear suspension!

Once my panhard drop bar was installed overall droop on each side was equalized.

Just thought Id tell you.

Oh and I have ~7" of rear lift with no E-brake cable "mods".
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:01 AM
  #35  
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From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Also, I thought this was interested posted by Bamachem:

oh, and the panhard is the culprit. i thought everybody knew that and didn't realize it was being discussed. when the DS droops, it tries to swing forward in an arch around the pivot point created by the upper and lower links. this creates binding at the panhard bar (tries to torque it in a clockwise motion as you look down it's axis from the DS), which eventually stops downward travel as the joints and flex of the bar reaches it's limits. a panhard drop bar will help w/ some of that cause the bar can be torqued easier than a straight bar due to the leverage that can be imparted by the "step" designed into the bar. a panhard drop bracket simply moves the mounting point lower, but doesn't do anything to add any additional flex over stock. put an adjustable panhard bar in that can pivot on the threads (or one w/ better ends) and it will droooooooooooooooooop like crazy. it's on my to-do list, but nowhere near the top.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #36  
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i fyou want mad flex, then you need twist/pivot points built into the links AND the panhard bar...
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 01:37 PM
  #37  
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Thanks guys!


Chris
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 06:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SC4Runner
Hey dude,

Well, It actually turned out to be the panhard bar on my truck. My truck sat 1-2 inches lower on the DS because of the overall tension of the rear suspension!

Once my panhard drop bar was installed overall droop on each side was equalized.

Just thought Id tell you.

Oh and I have ~7" of rear lift with no E-brake cable "mods".

That's interesting, wonder if I'm over the 3.5" I have estimated and maybe that is why my drivers side sits 1/2" to 3/4" lower than the passenger side. I have Steve's drop bar which is good for 2.5" to 3.5" of lift.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:22 PM
  #39  
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From: Deep Gap, NC
So, it sounds like Steve needs to make the bar with the option of having RE joints on each end.

Chris
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