put one in your rear. i have a buddy with a taco on 32's that only has a front locker and he brakes axles left and right. now if he had both, it'd be killer. he does still manage to show up the TJ's running 36's

 

Hey I know what cha mean! My e-locker hasn't been disengaged for over a week now. Wheel hoppin' fun!

 

i have both in my runner it will chop the tires but in the front you can lock or unlock it, but if you drive in snow road the front is bad you can also just lock the one side so if you are putting them in for off road the front will get you more trac and on the road just unlock it

 

I say the rear.

 

Holy old thread batman!

 

ditto

 

Weld the front......

 

does it still screw things up with a front lincoln locker on the street if the manual hubs are disengaged? I don't understand why it would or could outside of making sure they are unlocked. Any conclusions to this ancient thread? Wayne

 

I agree with you here. I think it would be okay to lock the front or even spool the front if you have manual locking hubs.
As long as you leave the hubs unlocked on the street your front diff won't even be turning and your front wheels won't be locked to the each other or the differential. So yeah spool it, weld it, whatever don't waste money on a air locker!

On this thought my 1992 4runner has the vacuum actuated front axle locking thing where the left front wheel and axle is not locked to the differential until a sleeve is pulled in by a vacuum actuator. THIS allows the front diff to spin without spinning the front drive shaft when in 2wd. Also This allows for the "2wd Low range mod" if you wire a kill switch on the vacuum solenoid when in 4wd low.
My point here is you could put a spool on a axle like this and as long as the axle sleeve was unlocked the two front wheels would not be truly locked together so normal driving would not be affected. The down side though would be that the front diff would be forcing the front drive shaft to turn all the time even in 2wd.
Not sure what the negative effects of this would be other than less gas mileage. maybe would be harmful to the transfer case due more wear on front universal joints and trans case components.
Hopefully someone out there has done this and can tell you more here.

Also I have read somewhere that locking the front over the back is preferable when rock-crawling because the front wheels travel together at nearly the same rate compared to the rear wheels when sharp cornering. NOT sure if that helps but it makes sense to me.

 

Yeah but when the front wheels turn, the front wheels have leverage on the rear forcing them to turn. I won't explain it, but draw a picture of a truck from above turning sharply. Draw a line down the centre of the vehicle assume that line is a lever. You will see how the front wheel lever the rear. The front doesn't have this advantage when turning.

 

I have a Fj40 with ARB's in both ends. I would save your cash and get one at a time. I find that the ability to unlock either end of the truck is a great help. I have set my lockers to run independent of one another. I vary rarely lock just the front like 1% of the time. the only time i only lock the front is if i am trying to keep the rear end from sliding down a side hill. I will say that you have to be super careful when locking the front, i have broken 4 birfs and one short side axle shaft because of the arb. When i broke the shaft i had to have the arb rebuilt, because the shock load spun the splines in the locker. If you are not hard core wheeling just do the rear and call it good. I would hate to think about replacing IFS stuff every wheeling trip.

 

My friend is locked front and rear in his dd. Yeah, it churps, hops, and squeels... but on the trail, with stock suspension and 31 muds it'll leave Jeep owners (with $3k-$5k invested in lifts and meats) scratching their heads. I have open difs on my stock '90 Runner, and am definitely going to lincoln-lock the rear. If I wasn't limited by money, I would most certainly go with the selectable front and a rear locker.

 

Double dead thread revival! Once in 08, and now That's neat

 

excellent i am so pleased. my 94 pickup has manual locking hubs and nothing in the rear. im looking to lock the rear here shortly. but i am concerned with the danger of locking the front according to some people. where and what is the stress caused? what parts are likely to break if they do?

 

Lockers PREVENT more damage than they cause by allowing you to pick better lines and eliminating the shock loads when tires come off the ground.

 

You really have to ask yourself too... do you want to push, pull, or push and pull and the same time? Its two tires gripping and turning vs. 3 or 4. With open difs and a tire or two off the ground, you'll be thinking "I sure wish I was locked." Lockers make all the difference in your differential... even if you're just lincoln-locked. If you gotta V6, I guess the thing to do is get a 4.88 or 5.29 in the rear. Lincoln-lock it and throw some 33" meats under your ride with a tiny lift ( I just got some 80Series rears for my 2nd Gen Runner). That's seems to be popular anyway. Just so you know, I am kinda new to this. But, I've been reading a lot of threads, and I hate "Heeps." Do your research. Get what you want the first time.

 

Lockers prevent front end damage. ARB's actually give you a stronger diff.

 

id put it in the rear