I've been bouncing this idea around in my head for some time and I was wondering what y'all's thoughts on removing the stock bump stops and mounting tabs and using limit straps, jounce shocks or Timbren springs, and a shock hoop similar to Downey or TC's and a longer shock are? I'm also wondering how much travel the stock CV's could handle? I know TC says 12" of travel is about the limit of the T100 axles they utilize to maintain 4wd but, correct me if I'm wrong, I'm thinking that has something to do with the added length of the axle. I would eventually like to go with an LT kit seeing as how all I really have to play in down here is sand but don't have the funds to drop on a kit all at one time and jounces, limiting straps, a shock hoop and good shock seemed like a good place to start.

 

With stock upper bump stops, and ball joint spacers, the CV hits it's limit on flex. So, like an extra 1.5" is about all you could do for droop stop, which is what the limit strap will get you. You can just add BJ spacers.

However, UPtravel could be VASTLY improved. You will need to tub your fenders, but you could pick up some travel there. That is my plan at the moment.

 

Ball joint spacers are all ready on their way, and I'm planning on running fiberglass up front once I find a set I like. So with the BJ spacers and the stock droop stops the CV's are reaching their limits of droop. Does anyone have any numbers on the maximum up travel?

 

Remember the additional load you'll be placing on the CV's when you lengthen their range of motion. On the LC's with birfields (essentially oversized CV's) we see a lot of breakage with too much allowed ROM.

 

I've definitely thought about that and if I decide to try a set up like this I'll definitely stay on the more conservative side of the travel numbers. We don't have a lot of whoops or jumps down here because we can't actually wheel in the dunes but the National Seashore is pretty lenient on speed down the beach and I would just like to smooth out the ride a little bit.

 

Anymore ideas?

 

I've been thinking of cutting the droop stops completely off and running straps as opposed to the 1.5" BJ spacers.. although, I've been debating whether I should make some 1" BJ spacers & use the lo pro droop stops (so i wouldn't have to cut into the a-arm to make the 1.5" spacer fit).

as far as compression travel... I dont know exact numbers, but I personally wouldn't go further than lo pro bumps.. I'm worried about the ball joints in this case, as the CVs could theoretically handle more compression travel than the BJs.

 

The inner cv is the problem here. It can take slightly more down travel with say low profile bump stops and bj spacers. However, the boot cannot take it and then you're just trying your luck with breakage. The inner joint reaches the most compression when the joints have zero angle -- straight, anything past that in upward wheel travel is just the opposite of downward wheel travel so it's fine. Just make sure your steering stops are properly adjusted and you shouldn't have to worry about the outter joint, which is a birfield.

 

Oh if you want more wheel travel and not willing to ante up for a TC type kit plan on making custom axle shafts with a new inner cv joint, such as the 930 porsche unit.

 

Look at your CV's now - sitting at ride height, they are already bent down, meaning there is a TON of room for compression travel if you get the fenders out of the way, but I think you will have big problems realizing it due to the extremely progressive nature of the torsion bar setup. I'm not sure about the ROM of the balljoints.

There's considerable improvement available without serious modifications, though, and I look forward to seeing how it works!

 

on my 884runner i have 15inches of travel with my front cv driveshaft i was told that if i want more travel i might need limiting straps

 

Wrong kinda cv shaft. we're talking IFS here, looks like your 4runner is SFA.

 

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I completely forgot about this thread. I installed the BJ spacers and SAW torsion bars over Thanksgiving, couldn't get around to the rear because of the weather. I know a lot of guys dislike the larger torsions but I'm satisfied with them so far except I'll probably uncrank them a little bit. While I had me head in the fender I noticed that the shock mounts at a slight angle and it looks like a taller and/or larger diameter shock might have some clearance issues. I was thinking of running Bilstein 5150's or 7100's (If I can find them used) in preferably the 8" travel size if possible. Has anyone run these with the stock UCA's? Also what shock hoop or tower do you guys recommend? I was looking at Ballistic Fab's or one of TC's. I don't really like Downey's too much because of the single shear mounting with just one shock.

I'm putting the jounces on hold for now and am going to run lo-pro compression stops and a stock or slightly smaller droop stop. I have found a mounting spot for the jounces but those funds are going for a locker and bumpers.

Oh and I have an extra half shaft laying around now so I'm gonna do research into 930 CVs on stock shafts, and will also look into high angle or leather boots. Once again thanks a lot!

 

Allpro makes some "long travel" boots that are supposedly much more durable and articularte, i beleive they are like $10 each

 

I've seen the AllPro and ORS boots and they're for Tacos, but I'll give them a call and see if they'll fit.

 

before converting my 4runner i had 12inches of travel thanks to the total chaos kit

 

Either the TC or JD Fab kit are in the plans in the future but for now aren't anywhere near my budget.

 

The problem with trying to squeeze more up travel out of the front is not thge cv's, for sure. It's clearance.

When you are resting on the bumps, your lower arms are about parallel with the bottom of the arm mount (frame). If you try to go past that, you are just lowering the frame closer to the ground.. effectively losing ground clearance.

This may be ok for crawling, but in high speed stuff, you are just begging to whack your frame, tweak things, throw off alignment, etc. It won't help absorb more, but rather hurt you more.

Even fro slow speed crawling, that extra travel would actually probably cause you to get hung up on the skid. It's not really usable travel. I wouldn't chase that dragon.

Longer axles are the only real way to get more clean, functioning travel out of IFS. BJ spacers or an upper arm are the next best thing.

 

Good point DeathRunner, I hadn't thought about that. I need to take some measurements but from the drivers seat what I have now feels good. I've set my T- bars to about stock, with the BJ spacers and will have low pro bumps around Christmas. Jounce's look to be completely out of the question since all the shock I've seen need the rear bump stop bracket for a mounting point. I've still got questions though.

Has anyone ever run Timbren springs instead of bump stops?

What are my options for the rear as far as shock mounting goes?

I'd like to run either Bilstein 5150's or 5125's with around 10 or 11"s of travel with 170/60 valving and an pin to eye mount or possibly outboarded. Is that too much travel for LC coils and stock links? Also, is the valving too soft? And, what are my options for mounting my shocks outside the frame?

I plan on replacing the stock lower links and seeing I can find some one to fab a third link to do away with the panhard and upper links.

 

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