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Marlin Gear Kits on 3rd Gen

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:52 AM
  #21  
rockota's Avatar
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by BruceTS
It's hard to say what the problem is, I know I helped in the assembly of my crawl box at Marlin's shop, so I made sure things were sealed up. I know that seal provided for the new coupler, a metal flange type seal, during installation can bend easily, whcih tend to leak afterwards. Mine was a very tight fit and took me about 20 minutes to tap it in.
Riddle me this...

If the leak is through the coupler, wouldn't that allow oil to pass between the tranny/tcase only? As long as the adapter is well sealed, the bad coupler shouldn't have anything to do with a leak, correct?

Like I mention, the only oil leaks I've seen on any marlin adapter has been through the vents - maybe I've been lucky?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:55 AM
  #22  
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by cubuff4runner
I called ORS and they quoted me $1900 to regear not including the locker.
EGADS that's expensive!

Gears: 250/each MAX
install kit: 150/each MAX

That's a max of $400/end in parts. Gear installation should be no more than 3 hours and end, especially w/ no locker. Even at $100/hour, that's only $600 - about $500 less than their estimate.

Even if you are driving the truck in and having them remove the diffs, I can see only 3 extra hours for that at the most, and maybe $20 worth of high-grade oil.

Dang - darned glad "I gotta guy" who does mine for $75/end.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 06:06 AM
  #23  
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From: Thornton, Colorado
Originally Posted by rockota
EGADS that's expensive!

Gears: 250/each MAX
install kit: 150/each MAX

That's a max of $400/end in parts. Gear installation should be no more than 3 hours and end, especially w/ no locker. Even at $100/hour, that's only $600 - about $500 less than their estimate.

Even if you are driving the truck in and having them remove the diffs, I can see only 3 extra hours for that at the most, and maybe $20 worth of high-grade oil.

Dang - darned glad "I gotta guy" who does mine for $75/end.
That was the price for me to drive it in. I don't remember the exact price, but it was a couple hundred cheaper to take the thirds to them.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 06:34 AM
  #24  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Yeah, I saw your bumpers, I can imagine you are more than capable to drop the stuff, but I would still be happy to come by and drink beer.

Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:19 AM
  #25  
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From: Thornton, Colorado
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Yeah, I saw your bumpers, I can imagine you are more than capable to drop the stuff, but I would still be happy to come by and drink beer.

Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
I think that a few of us are going to run Carnage at Lefthand sometime in the next couple of months. I will let you know when if you want to go. I'm not wondering if I will be able to drop it- I'm wondering if I would be able to actually do the regaer and ARB install myself, with the help of a couple others.

Last edited by cubuff4runner; Jan 26, 2005 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:47 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rockota
Riddle me this...

If the leak is through the coupler, wouldn't that allow oil to pass between the tranny/tcase only? As long as the adapter is well sealed, the bad coupler shouldn't have anything to do with a leak, correct?

Like I mention, the only oil leaks I've seen on any marlin adapter has been through the vents - maybe I've been lucky?

On the manuals, it wouldn't be a problem. If it truly is leaking through the splines on the coulper, the simple soultion would be take it back apart and put gobs of sealer on the splines, then reassemble it, that will plug the leak.

The only time mine leaked was when the vent tube fell off, that was an easy fix.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:29 PM
  #27  
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by BruceTS
On the manuals, it wouldn't be a problem. If it truly is leaking through the splines on the coulper, the simple soultion would be take it back apart and put gobs of sealer on the splines, then reassemble it, that will plug the leak.

The only time mine leaked was when the vent tube fell off, that was an easy fix.
That's kind of what I thought... But... I can see how leaking through the coupler on that A/T would be bad... ATF & 90 weight likely don't mix well.
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