LOL, true, true, I fixed it.

 

Considering lift, I had c.a. 2-3" of bodylift for 38" mudders. Worked quite fine, a little bit of rubbing but other than that, no problem. The rest was just cut. I've done 38s without a lift aswell, cutting just as I needed...
I don't really understand how 33s can be a problem without a lift. Rather spend abit on the fender flares and cut as needed.
Just my few cents.

 

lol i got used to jumping into my dodge because it was about 4-5`` higher than a 1500. i hit my head a few times because i forgot to duck down to get in the yota. yeah they have quite of bit of ground clearance but everything just hangs down like the transfer case and the front end. ifs is pretty bad in the snow without a skid plate, drags so much snow. myy dodge had quite a bit more ground clearance than the yota but ive dragged the bumper on the ground many times cuz its too long

 

Lifting with BJ spacers provides NO room for bigger tires offroad.

They will ONLY clear on the street. Offroad, the tire WILL compress to the stock location, and rub like hell on the fenders. There is no debate, that is fact.

You can lengthen the lower bumpstops, which will keep the tire from flexing upwards, and limit your up travel to keep the tire out of the fender, but then you just got rid of all that extra flex you added by the Ball joint spacer.

The easy fix to that is to cut the firewall with a sawzall. Simple, easy, effective.

I like my BJ spacers for the improved ride quality. I put mine in, and after a while, relaxed back to stock height. Much better angles on my front a-arms=less force transfered to my frame over bumps=smoother ride.

Another note, for those who plan to wheel BJ spacers: If you see more than mild trails, you will break steering parts with the lift. The angles are bad, and create a lot of vertical load on the idler arm. That, and the tie rod sleeves.

I say, get the spacers, relax a little lift out of them, not all, but some, and level out the rear end. Throw some 33x10.50's on there, and have at it.

I agree with 4rnr. Lift and flex are over rated. If you have a buggy, sure, you need serious lift and flex. For wheeling, you don't.

Mine is no lift, 33x9.50's:

 

you but your runner has boatloads of gearing!!!

my plans for my build for my trail rig are...
locker the ifs...keep my welded rear.. do the cruiser coils to get some more rear flex.. and then armor and get some gearing if i have anymore cash!

 

Damn Ike! You make me want to put my crawler boxes in my DD and go wheeling!!

 

Nicely put Ike.

I know you don't have lift, but how much more flex do you have over stock?

 

anyone know of any dual tcase ifs builds??
of does ike just use a crawler box??

id totallylove to crawl in my stock dd trail beast! ultimate sleeper wheeler

 

I believe Ike and TC both have dual cases.

 

Thats my point. As far as off road mods go, an IFS lift is the least effective one.

Thanks man! Its pretty fun. I'm fortunate to live in the west, where the trails are open, and traction is good. Its the only reason I'm not swapped yet. The IFS is still fun.

1.5" over stock in the front, all droop. The rear, I'm not sure. Stock, first gens don't flex for crap. I put in new springs and shackles to get rid of butt sag.

I have dual cases. 2.28 in the front box, 4.7 in the rear. Also, ARB Air lockers front and rear, with the diffs regeared to 4.88.

TC has the reverse of that. 4.7 in the front, 2.28 in the rear. Also with dual ARB's and 4.88's.

 

what drive shaft modiciations?? same as with a solid axle truck?? or do the stock ones still fit??

i love in that video where the one dude is like hell never make it.... then there all like ok mr negative when you made it hahahaha

 

No, the driveshaft mods are not like simply a SA mod.

You have to get the front one lengthened about 6", and the rear one shortened by almost the same.

I had both mine retubed to .120 wall.

 

i wheel with fullsize chevy's and Fords...so im lifting to be able to keep up with them...because when everybody was stock..i was leading the pack!...now that everybody is lifted with 33" swampers or bigger...im falling behind..and i find myself being yanked out by a P.O.S. ford...sooo..im going to do my BJ spacers and new rear leafs for ma little more lift..then later down the road maybe like a 2"-3" body lift..and throwing on some 33's...or maybe do a bracket lift and go 35's...i like to be able to lead the pack of trucks..since my truck is WAY underpowered..i like to show off with what my truck can do offroad..im also getting an E-locker for the rear..and MAYBE an ARB for the front...because i gotta have selectability..im also doing the lift for looks..i mean come on...who doesnt love a lifted rig with some big ass tires..lol

 

LIfting for looks is a perfectly good reason to lift.

You've missed the point in the thread though.

Putting the lift on is going to provide you SOME improvement offroad, but not NEARLY as much as lockers. With just the lift, you'll be able to keep up, maybe, with your buddies. You'll still get pulled out from time to time.

If you took that money, bought a rear locker, and put in dual stock cases, and got some 34x9.50 LTB's, you would never see your buddies in your mirrors.

No lift. Just pound the pinch weld.

Simple, easy, and WAY MORE effective than the lift.

 

we have done figured out that pizza cutters are no good in the mud around here...which is why im going to 12.5" tires...and..with my toyota being soo lightweight...i'll be able to go way more places that those other trucks..i can float over stuff better than them..lol..

i agree lockers would get me farther than anything..buttt...since lockers dont do anything for looks..and im 18...im going to go for the lift and larger tires...i will also regear to 4.88's..well damn when i do that i might as well lock the axles..LOL..

 

do a cheap body lift to fit your big tires..
IM TALKING ABOUT offroadin a bad arse sleeper ifs rig here...

now i need the cruiser coils cuz the 32s are taking out my bumper and my shocks are rusted through... and a front locker... think ill prolly armour before i dual case... they reall help axleikes rig preform but the armour has kept his truck looking straight!

 

Nothing wrong with that.

Well, not sure what makes a truck a sleeper. But, Armor is one of the first things I'd do. It gives you confidence, because you aren't worried about damage. You can try harder lines, even open open with no gears, that you wouldn't try without.

Sound's like a good plan!

 

its alot of mud and washout around here where the low gearing might not help..

and i have a welder and a winch waiting to be put to use hahahaha
also an internal snorkel i think..
i almost purchased bj spacers im glad i found out about this thread because no buying them ill keep my ifs stronger and they arnt need. i just though maybe it would level out the cruiser coils... but i dont care ill just load up the rear with gear hahahahhaha

 

most of the guys on here...are alllll about rocks...MUD is bad...well to us small town boys out in the country...mud is the best..who wants to tear their truck up dentin it all up and put huge scratches on it...i agree mud does tear stuff up...but rocks tear stuff up faster..like breaking birfs...never heard of anybody breaking a birf in the mud...or cv axles...never heard of anybody breaking a cv in the mud..all on rocks...NO WAY will dual cases help out in the mud...now if i was runnin some 42's then yes maybe..but with small tires (i.e under 35's) i need tire speed to get through this muck...if i was to go at i slow(like with dual cases)..i wouldnt get anywhere!!!..i would get about 3ft into the hole..then i would be stuck...now if i was locked front and rear with some MEATY tires...then maybe i could get through it...but not with open diffs..

 

I lifted mine, to put 35's on. More clearance, also because as I'm sure some of the Older Yota drivers know, the alternator sits in a Sh***y spot so when doing some mudding it gets in there to fry it quite easily.
...some other factors.....
Fat girls can't jump.
I'm 18.
Looks sweet.