I am new to the toyota scene (previoulsy owned a K10 and XJ) and have a few questions regarding the lift. I purchased a pair of 4" - 5" lift springs for the front (either Superlift or Skyjacker, dont know and they were $40) and am debating on pulling a leaf to soften them up and drop the lift down a little.

I been told I can do this by some, and others are saying no it will ruin the spring or give me axle wrap (in the front?) What do you guys think?

I dont have anything for the rear yet, but am supposed to get the matching pair from the original seller (he's switching to chevy's). If this doesnt work out a I am thinking of blocks and/or add a leafs and/or shackles. What is the best one or combination to run?

Anything else besides shocks, I have been told an adjustable drag link is recommended, but not always necessary. Brake lines?

Oh, and do I need to run the degree shims in the front, one is broken and if I dont need to replace I would rather not.

Sorry for all the questions. But hey, I sold the Jeep!

Thanks

1985 Yota 4WD
No lift, no PS, no EFI, but it only has 100k!

 

when you go over 4 inches it seems to create more problems/issues... Adj drag link will correct you steering geometry, very nice to have. Im not sure about breakin that spring pac k open but i can tell you this.. Lowrider gus ave been doing that for a LONG time, i saw an s10 here recently that had one spring in the back and it was frownin like a mofo, so ask youself this why would this be any different?? Just go for it!!! just report back to us and let us know how it works out.. the shims in the front are there to either 1, correct DL angle, or 2 correct castor. Take those out thorw you driveability out thhe windowand have fun replacing replacing ujoints in that front drive line... anyways, hope this helps!!

Mike

 

If I had an 85, I'd go a different route. There are so many vendors who make some really quality springs. Instead of hoping something will work, go and buy something quality and proven.

A few that come to mind are Marlin crawler, All pro offroad and Trail Gear!

 

The trick with the early SFA rigs is getting acceptable pinion angles and caster angle at the same time.

The only way to make a significant caster change is to cut off the knuckles, rotate them, and weld back on.

The caster angle is the #1 cause of deathwobble in these early trucks with lift.

Lastly, most people who 'wheel the SFA rigs move the axle forward a bit to keep the tires out of the firewall and help line it up better for a switch to an IFS steering box and highsteer.

 

You can have the front caster angle checked and see if shims are needed or not:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1

With just springs-only up front, you generally don't need shims for proper caster (steering) angle.

And check the drag link for binding at full suspension droop. That is where you may need the offset draglink. With the Z shape, it keeps the ends of the bar more horizontal to prevent binding on the ball studs. Also make sure you have full steering lock to lock. Often, you may not be able to make a full turn one direction or the other.

On the springs, you can try pulling a leaf, usually the 2nd from the bottom. Depends on what spring setup you have, though. If you only have a 3-leaf pack, unlikely that you can remove a leaf without problems. Even dicey on a 4-leaf pack. Maybe swap a stock leaf for one of the lift leaves:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseII

 

Well, I test fit the springs tonight and they turned out to be 7" lift springs, too much. I will be researching complete new kits tomorrow. Any recommendations for a complete bolt in kit w/ 3 - 4 inches of lift? (getting 33" MTR's)

I like Allpro and Trailgear stuff, but dont know if they make simple bolt on kits. Thinking of Superlift or NWOR specialties springs. Heard horror stories, but it doesnt sound like their leaf springs are that bad and they are only 4 hrs away.

Thanks

 

I guess its a little late for input. I ordered the NWOR 3.5" kit (includes front and rear springs, bushings, sway bar extensions, and rear brake line equalizer) for $399. Not too bad.

I called Marlin, Trail gear, and All Pro. No one offered a direct bolt in kit (new spring hanger was required on all) except All Pro who offered 5" front springs only, no rears. When I advised I was only going to run a 33" tire (MTR's to be specific), he said 5" was way to big and would look kind of funny. I asked him about a direct bolt in spring in the 3" - 5" range and didnt know. I inquired about Downy and NWOR, and he actually recommended NWOR over Downey.

That pretty much sealed the deal. The salesman at NWOR was helpful (however seemed very defensive over their procuct vs the "others that may the extreme flex spring")

I didnt really want to go Superlift, Procomp, etc.. Wanted something more specifically designed for my application.

We'll see how it goes. I should probably fix my brakes now, and power steering would be good too.....

 

hey if you dont mind id like to see how the lift turned out for you.im lookin at the same thing and just wanted to see sum pics and how instalation went.

 

hey i was just wondering how install went and everything. i have an 84 and was looking at the same kits you were looking at, and i was told NWOR and All Pro were good by a local shop (Eastside Custom Truck). Not everyone seems to be having problems but i just want to see how yours turned out. Thanks again!