I changed the brushes out last night with the dealer replacements, took me about 1.5 hours and truck runs. I had to remove an extra pieces to make it easier to remove the alternator and made it easier to put it back in. Also I had only two wires to remove fromt he alternator, not three as the directions mentioned. The truck started right up this morning with the first try so I assume the alternator is actually charging the battery and drove fine on the 35 min commute to work. I’m going back to Autozone, at lunch, to have them check the alternator and the battery. What should my Amps read if the brush replacement was successful? If the volts and amps look good on the alternator I will purchase a new battery at Costco, their low cost brand. They have the battery recommendations at Costco and other places but what specifications do I need to make sure match? From what I recall you want to make sure you have enough cranking amps (please correct me if I am wrong) and I thought something else. Does anyone know what the specs for the battery for an 89 v6 4WD 5spd off the top of their head or have a link to it?

A BIG thanks to 4Crawler for the link to replace the brushes.

For future reference, how difficult is it remove the starter compared to the alternator?

Thanks again everybody.

 

You should get amps somewhere in the range of what the alternator output is, I thnk the stock alternators are in the 65 amps range.

Starter removal is outlined on my web page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

Figuring out how to get access to the bolts/nuts is the tricky part. Depends on the tools you have and what things are in the way. Once you figure out what it takes on your vehicle, it is fairly easy to do.

 

One thing to consider is that your alternator will provide more or less current depending on demand. One simple test is to turn everything off and check the voltage while running. Turn every electrical accesory on and check it a gain. A good alternator will maintain a steady voltage. If you rev the engine and the voltage picks up a bit, that's normal as long as it's lowest reading is above about 13.5 volts (assuming everything on and fully charged battery) However, what's most import is the all off Vs. all on voltage readings.

As for batteries, it often depends on what you want to spend. My philosophy has always been get the biggest battery that will fit. However, for a vehicle that is used mainly for commuting purposes, that's not necessary assuming you don't have an enormous stereo which runs with the truck not running from time to time.

Frank

 

Thanks Frank, I only run a 200watt (which is probably the max watts not the rms) Bazooka tube with a pioneer deck and 4 smaller speakers, and it is rarely run with out the engine on. I plan on adding 2x55watt driving lights in the future so making sure this alternator and battery are fine before I even start looking at adding lights.

 

Typically an alternator has some headroom. A 65 amp 14V alternator will produce 910 watts of power. If you have added say 200W RMS to the system you are probably fine. After all, how often do you have all the lights on, stereo cranked, blower fan and windshield wipers on high, while you move the seats in as many directions as they can at once and push the cigarette light in over and over?

When you start running winches and high current accesories like that, it's good to upgrade the alternator and battery.

Frank

 

I had the starter, repaired alternator, and new battery (from Wal-mart) checked out at Autozone and everything looks good. Alternator produced around 58amps, and around 14 volts. I wanted to thank everyone for saving me about $300 dollars. Now back to figuring out a lift, I thinking now I might just go with a 4-5 inch suspension lift.

 

If you wanna fit 32's, that lift is not necessary. Actually, you can fit 33's without it. I have a 4" Trailmaster lift, not the best of the lot for sure. I wouldn't get a bracket style lift if I were to do it again. It's not that they can't be made to work well, but you need to modify them for more than stock travel. Often you have driveline vibes. They will also make the truck more tippy. The upsides are that if you know what you are doing, you can get some serious travel out them. Now you won't use more than say 6" because the stock bars are pleny stiff when crawling. But when hitting the whoops, the potential 12" ofd travel can be very nice.

It's all about what you wanna do with your truck. I'd go spacers and body lift myself. Much less expensive, better street manners, increases supension travel, less alignment issues, etc....

Frank

 

Thanks elripster - at the moment I'm not sure what to really do with my truck. It is basically my daily driver and I don't really do any type of off roading, but there is always that possibility of changing if I get into my truck. I guess I just like the look of a toyota lifted with large wide tires (32s or 33s). So what you are saying is if I really wanted to get 32x11.5 or 33x12.5 tires (more than likely MT and after having experienced them I would later replace them with AT) for my truck without a lift or modifications to my truck it is possible, am I correct? Would there be rubbing if I went with 32s or 33s on the stock rim? Would the chances of rubbing increase or decrease if I went with either 32s or 33s and an after market rim that had less backspacing (to push the tires farther out from under the wheel well to give the illusion of a wider tire and wider stance)?

 

Some of your questions are probably better answered by Roger aka 4crawler. However, I would suggest as little lift as possible. The reason is the truck will retain much more driveability on the street. Now if you, for example, went with BJ spacers, a 2" body lift, numerous real lift options, and some wider rims, I'm sure you can clear 32's easy and most likely 33's. Roger would likely know for sure though. That would save dough for regearing, another must when going to larger tires.

Fortunately, our trucks came stock with decent ground clearance. So, with a little lift and larger tires the trucks take that look pretty quick.

Frank

 

Read the page I posted a link to earlier (here it is again):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

You can fit 32s as-is, 33s with just a little work and cost, like this:



http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/

 

Thank you guys both.

4Crawler on your website it says 32x11.50 would fit but may require minor adjustments and I understand minor adjustments can vary between trucks, what could minor adjustments consist of if the tire was used on a stock rim?

Also, please correct me if I have understood this incorrectly, but when you have less back spacing in your rim you are pushing the tire outwards away from the center of the truck. Now if you use a 32x11.5 tire and an aftermarket rim that has less backspacing are you increasing or decreasing (or is there no way to really tell until you get it on your truck) the chances of rubbing occuring?

Thanks again.

 

Usually just the inner fender mods pictured, hammering the standing seam flat, trimming the plastic wheel well liner, etc.

Less backspacing = wider:
- http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires...ningTrackWidth

And less backspacing = more chance of rubbing. Why? The wider the tire sticks out (either due to it being wider, the wheel being wider or less back side spacing), the wider the arc it swings while steering and as the suspension cycles. If the arc of the tire intersects the arch of the wheel well, you get rubbing.

 

Thanks for clarifying minor adjustments and backspacing 4crawler.

Sorry to get back to you guys so late been overly busy at work and at home. I have about $1300 saved up for the a lift and by the end of the week around $1700. I am leaning to just get a 4-5 inch suspension lift since I am having very difficult time finding any shops around Sacramento that will do ball joint spacers or body lifts. I'm also thinking of just going with 33s since I believe the gearing on my V6 should be fine with this size tire. I've read around the forum and from what I have concluded I should stay away from Procomp, possibly stay away Trailmaster, and Rancho. Any suggestions on suspenion kits that are readily available at most 4WD Shops?