How does this sound for lift and tires?
#1
How does this sound for lift and tires?
All the info I've gotten so far from everyone and searching websites I think I've came up with a sizeable lift and tires.
4" Superlift
1.5" BJ spacers
Swaybar Discos
5.5" Cruiser coils
All Pro Upper Control Arm links
All Pro 1" extended Control arms
Profields or Longfields (Haven't decided)
Bilstein 5100 shocks
4:88 Gears (undecided on brand)
Aussie lockers front and rear
16" Weld Cheyenne 6
33x12.50 Swamper trx/us
I was going to sell my current tire and rim combo once I got the lift on and the new tires and rims bought. Also selling the 901 coils under it now along with the coils that come with the lift. I'm getting ready to start school and will have some extra funds to start this project with. Won't get it all in 1 shot but I will eventually get it! Also doing most of the work myself besides the gears and locker install since my father in law has a big garage and air tools. Let me know what you all think
4" Superlift
1.5" BJ spacers
Swaybar Discos
5.5" Cruiser coils
All Pro Upper Control Arm links
All Pro 1" extended Control arms
Profields or Longfields (Haven't decided)
Bilstein 5100 shocks
4:88 Gears (undecided on brand)
Aussie lockers front and rear
16" Weld Cheyenne 6
33x12.50 Swamper trx/us
I was going to sell my current tire and rim combo once I got the lift on and the new tires and rims bought. Also selling the 901 coils under it now along with the coils that come with the lift. I'm getting ready to start school and will have some extra funds to start this project with. Won't get it all in 1 shot but I will eventually get it! Also doing most of the work myself besides the gears and locker install since my father in law has a big garage and air tools. Let me know what you all think
#4
You're doing a 4" lift plus bj spacers and only putting on 33s? With that much lift go for 35s. Otherwise you don't need that much lift.
How about a panhard bracket drop or lift?
How about a panhard bracket drop or lift?
#5
Originally Posted by Silver_Truck
Longfields? Longfields are a replacement for birfields on Toy soild axles.
#6
Originally Posted by Robinhood150
You're doing a 4" lift plus bj spacers and only putting on 33s? With that much lift go for 35s. Otherwise you don't need that much lift.
How about a panhard bracket drop or lift?
How about a panhard bracket drop or lift?
#7
Originally Posted by callmej75
I want plenty of clearance so there will be no rubbing while the suspension is bottomed out. I got these 31's with the torsion bars cranked and tried to turn in a tight position on a trail and as soon as I backed up a hill and turned the wheel when coming back down the tires rubbed the inner fender bad. Plus the lift law here in VA sucks ass because they are cracking down on lifts.
If your rubbing with 31's now I think you need check your bump stops. My 33x12.5's don't rub a bit with the BJ spacers and pounding the pinch welds flat. Just my opinion.
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#8
Originally Posted by strap22
Jeremy,
If your rubbing with 31's now I think you need check your bump stops. My 33x12.5's don't rub a bit with the BJ spacers and pounding the pinch welds flat. Just my opinion.
If your rubbing with 31's now I think you need check your bump stops. My 33x12.5's don't rub a bit with the BJ spacers and pounding the pinch welds flat. Just my opinion.

#9
Originally Posted by callmej75
I just checked the bump stops and they are in tact and seem pretty sturdy. They may be worn but can't really tell. When they rubbed I was backing up a steep incline trying to turn around on a tight trail and when I cut the wheels all the way to the left they rubbed the inner fender. I just like alot of lift but not outrageously high so I don't have any worries of rubbing or anything of that nature occurring. New bump stops will be put in after I get the lift. Thanks Phil for the heads up tho. 

Maybe you should have another
Last edited by Strap22; Jun 25, 2005 at 10:05 AM.
#10
I believe the swampers run a little big, more like 32s, plus he's got some really big lugs sticking out the sidewalls. That's what I figure anyway.
But yeah, it sounds like he needs to do some trimming and pounding.
But yeah, it sounds like he needs to do some trimming and pounding.
#11
Originally Posted by strap22
You didn't add the rear lower control arm truss yet did you? When you are fully compressed the lower control arms tend to spread out and will allow the suspension to go further then it is suppose to. If this happens you usually knock it out of alignment too. I just can't understand how you got rubbing with 31's. What offset are your wheels? That could make a difference. I am just stumped on this one. keep me posted on this if you find out anything.
Maybe you should have another 
Maybe you should have another 
Just took a pic...and noticed something not so good. CV grease everywhere on the drivers side
It should last til august seeing all we drive here is about 10 miles a week.
Last edited by callmej75; Jun 25, 2005 at 08:33 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by Robinhood150
I believe the swampers run a little big, more like 32s, plus he's got some really big lugs sticking out the sidewalls. That's what I figure anyway.
But yeah, it sounds like he needs to do some trimming and pounding.
But yeah, it sounds like he needs to do some trimming and pounding.
#13
Originally Posted by callmej75
Alright I got confused on that...had people tell me they were cv's. Misinformation I guess. HEAVY DUTY CV'S.
#14
hey, i like your proposed config. has many of the same choices i had mulled over. you'll certainly get your needed clearance from the 4"+BJs. i did a superlift 4" plus cranked the torsion bars a bit to even out the 5" springs we added. it sits pretty high, but that has already proven its worth in a number of avoided scrapes. i avoid off-camber like the plague so i'm not too concerned about tippiness. get ready for the vehicle to feel pretty different for a couple months until you get used to the new geometry. one suggestion: go with a user-actuated locker in front, vs the aussie. you can check out my truck page for some general pix if you're interested. go for it... good plan.
#16
Originally Posted by photoleif
hey, i like your proposed config. has many of the same choices i had mulled over. you'll certainly get your needed clearance from the 4"+BJs. i did a superlift 4" plus cranked the torsion bars a bit to even out the 5" springs we added. it sits pretty high, but that has already proven its worth in a number of avoided scrapes. i avoid off-camber like the plague so i'm not too concerned about tippiness. get ready for the vehicle to feel pretty different for a couple months until you get used to the new geometry. one suggestion: go with a user-actuated locker in front, vs the aussie. you can check out my truck page for some general pix if you're interested. go for it... good plan.
#19
What are you doing with this truck. In my opinion it sounds like you are just hungry to spend money.
If you wanta really useable lift consider a Solid axle swap or check out
www.chaosfab.com or jdfabrication.com for real IFS lifts.
With a superlift kit, you really won't need porche cv's
The truss helps keep things straight, yes when at full bump the arms can spread out, but this is in a high speed or forceful setting, simply flexing out till bump is not enough to really mess that up.
If you just want 33's and an inexpensive effective lift, I would do the following:
Front:
1.5" bj spacers
lo pro bump stops
swaybar disconnects
4.88 gears
Rear:
1.5" allpro coils
sway bar disco (if applicable)
4.88 gears
aussie locker
This combo would be very effective and pretty inexpenisve
to fit 33's you just need those items and a little fender pounding or slight trimming. The bracket lifts (Superlift, trailmaster, procomp, etc.) only add lift, no wheel travel. You'd have a more functional rig without it, in my opinion (i had one).
If you wanta really useable lift consider a Solid axle swap or check out
www.chaosfab.com or jdfabrication.com for real IFS lifts.
With a superlift kit, you really won't need porche cv's
The truss helps keep things straight, yes when at full bump the arms can spread out, but this is in a high speed or forceful setting, simply flexing out till bump is not enough to really mess that up.
If you just want 33's and an inexpensive effective lift, I would do the following:
Front:
1.5" bj spacers
lo pro bump stops
swaybar disconnects
4.88 gears
Rear:
1.5" allpro coils
sway bar disco (if applicable)
4.88 gears
aussie locker
This combo would be very effective and pretty inexpenisve
to fit 33's you just need those items and a little fender pounding or slight trimming. The bracket lifts (Superlift, trailmaster, procomp, etc.) only add lift, no wheel travel. You'd have a more functional rig without it, in my opinion (i had one).
#20
Originally Posted by deathrunner
What are you doing with this truck. In my opinion it sounds like you are just hungry to spend money.
If you wanta really useable lift consider a Solid axle swap or check out
www.chaosfab.com or jdfabrication.com for real IFS lifts.
With a superlift kit, you really won't need porche cv's
The truss helps keep things straight, yes when at full bump the arms can spread out, but this is in a high speed or forceful setting, simply flexing out till bump is not enough to really mess that up.
If you just want 33's and an inexpensive effective lift, I would do the following:
Front:
1.5" bj spacers
lo pro bump stops
swaybar disconnects
4.88 gears
Rear:
1.5" allpro coils
sway bar disco (if applicable)
4.88 gears
aussie locker
This combo would be very effective and pretty inexpenisve
to fit 33's you just need those items and a little fender pounding or slight trimming. The bracket lifts (Superlift, trailmaster, procomp, etc.) only add lift, no wheel travel. You'd have a more functional rig without it, in my opinion (i had one).
If you wanta really useable lift consider a Solid axle swap or check out
www.chaosfab.com or jdfabrication.com for real IFS lifts.
With a superlift kit, you really won't need porche cv's
The truss helps keep things straight, yes when at full bump the arms can spread out, but this is in a high speed or forceful setting, simply flexing out till bump is not enough to really mess that up.
If you just want 33's and an inexpensive effective lift, I would do the following:
Front:
1.5" bj spacers
lo pro bump stops
swaybar disconnects
4.88 gears
Rear:
1.5" allpro coils
sway bar disco (if applicable)
4.88 gears
aussie locker
This combo would be very effective and pretty inexpenisve
to fit 33's you just need those items and a little fender pounding or slight trimming. The bracket lifts (Superlift, trailmaster, procomp, etc.) only add lift, no wheel travel. You'd have a more functional rig without it, in my opinion (i had one).


