I'm sure it won't be too bad once I get into it, but I'm freaking out a little about getting the third members out to take and have the lockers/gears installed because I can't seem to find a whole lot of info. Will be doing axle seals and everything while I'm in there. Seems like it's going to be a ton of work...

Anyone know of a writeup anywhere on how to drop the front and rear third members on a 2nd Gen with 3.0, manual tranny?

Anything special to watch out for?

Any ideas on how long it should take?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...&highlight=ARB

I'll go add the pics back in. I changed hosts.

 

OK - Pics are back in.

Remove the driveshaft bolts at the diffs - front and rear - and tie back the driveshafts.

Up front you can get the pig out without pulling the CV, but it takes some doing... Do the CV mod to make life easier to get them back in.

For the rear, you need to pull the axles out to free the 3rd.

I have more pics than what is in the other thread, so if there is something in particular you'd like to see, let me know - I might have it.

 

Thanks Cebby. I've done both CV's, so I've got that process pretty much down!

Is the rear as straightforward as it appears? Slide the axles out, disconnect the driveshaft and undo the housing bolts...

Hope to see you in Wellsville on the 18th!

 

As far as I remember that's all there is to the rear. I remember DMG had a bit of trouble pulling the axles due to the e-brake cable being a bear.

Here's a few pics from the archives...

 

The 2nd gen ebrakes don't have the disco's on the outside, a little cotter pin job? That sucks. My rear takes like 15 mins or less to pull.

The CV mod is all kinds of worth it. Made reinstallation SO easy.

 

Worked on the rear diff tonight. OMG - what a PITA!! Nobody said anything about the ABS sensor on the top of the diff!

For future reference, I removed it by grabbing with vice grips and twisting back and forth while another person pried up on it with a screwdriver.

Had a helluva time getting the diff past the swaybar. I think this was 'cuz I jacked it under the diff then put the jackstands under the axle. Lifting the body by the slider seemed to help.

So I'll take the rear to my guy and have it set up, then 'll get my buddy to help me put it in and take out the front...

 

Forgot about the ABS sensor.

I was on a lift, so you can see the space between my swaybar and 3rd. You needed to jack up the frame and let the axle droop.

 

Thanks bud. Anything else "slip your mind"? LOL

I took the rear third to my guy to be set up. Looks like he'll have it ready for me tomorrow.

Got the compressor installed and the wiring hooked up and tested tonight! Still need to short the rear window lockout switch so I can lower the window from the console and clean up some of the underhood wiring.

 

Got the rear installed and the front taken out. WOW were the bolts in the front tough!

Did a leak check on the rear. Gave up waiting for the compressor to cycle after an hour - WOOHOO!!! Hope the front goes as well...

This project is taking forever! LOL

 

Extend your breathers while you are at it.

 

Yep - had already done the back, will do the front while it's out.

What's the break in procedure for new gears?

 

TC,

Did you bump up to 4:88s? I have Cebby's old stock diffs w/4:88s and have been putting off swapping the ARB out of my 4:56 rear diff into the 4:88s. Where did you buy the ARB for your front pig?

 

Yes, I went to 4.88's. I think the ratio is perfect with my 33's, just a little bit higher than stock, which is great because first was about worthless with the 31's/4.56. Much better "pep" in 4th/5th than the 4.56/33's combo.

I went with 4Wheel Parts, as their price for the whole package was cheapest. PORC was the lowest just for the lockers/compressor, followed closely by trdparts4u.

When are we going to see you out in Wellsville? We have a run set up for April 9 on TTORA.

 

I've always heard that the break in for new gears is to run them in 4HI for about 15-20 miles, at no more than like 45-50 mph, then pull over, let them cool and you should be good to go.

Some one please correct me if I'm wrong as I would hate for tc to mess up his gears because of me.

 

I heard similar. Run 10-20 miles, stop for several hours and let them cool down completely. Do this a couple times. At 500 miles change the diff oil.

I will be considerably over the 500 miles, as I'm having some issues with the rear locker and waiting for the part. Seems wrong to change the oil, then pull the thirdmember 100 miles later and drain it all!

 

I'm still running the original 4.56's with 33s and I can't wait to get the 4.88's in there but I need to get an ARB in the front pig first. Sorry for the lack of knowledge but what does PORC stand for? Cebby bought his ARBs from Alex there.

Wellsville? I'd love to but the family is going to Disneyworld the next weekend and I have to get the taxes done! I'll probably make it out there when Cebby get his rig on the road again and we can go there with our families.

 

PORC = Performance Off-Road Center

 

tc; you just swapped pre-loaded 3rds, right? You didn't do the full gear swap yourself...

 

A buddy and I dropped the thirds, and I took them to a shop to have the ARB's installed and the gears setup, then put the whole thing back in the next day.

Something happened when we reinstalled the rear - it's leaking like a SOB now, so I'll have to drop it again