when they say adjust gears or change gears what gears are they talking about, in a truck

 

Usually Differential gears. When you increase tire size, the truck usually loses aparant power, so climbing hills, or starting up from a stop light, the truck goes very slowly. When you regear to a higher gear ratio, like going from 4.1 to 4.88 or 5.29, you get back closer to a stock feel, if that makes sense.

There is an equation to figure out what gears to get

[(new tire diameter (in inches)/old tire diameter (in inches)]*current gear ratio.

You can get your current ratio from the axle code on the plate attached to the firewall under the hood, and then go to various sites to get the ratio.

 

is this something that is going to cost a arm and leg, and is it hard to do your self?

 

Cost is right around 200 per diff, and about that in install costs per diff, so looking at around 800 bucks. I would do a lot of research before you do it yourself. I've done it, and i would say it is very difficult. It requires some specialty tools as well.

 

...if youre not sure what it refers to, you probably dont need em and should DEFINITELY not attempt to DIY. depending on the current setup of your rig, and the size tires you want to upgrade to, its not necessary. if youve got 3.97's or whatever, and you wanna go up to a 35" then yeah, you'll need em regeared. if youre going to put a locker in, thats the time to put new gears in since its all out in the open. youve got to regear both ends as well...

ive got a ladymatic with 4.30's and went from a 31" (265/75/16) to a 33" (285/70) without regearing. powerdrop was minimal w/ the better grunt of the 3.4 and i have the factory elocker, so it really wasnt worth the time/hassle/money to regear.

 

I needed them. I went from 28.5 to 33 with a 2.4 and 5speed. It made all the difference in the world.

if you have a 3.4 and you are only going up from a 265 to a 285 (roughly 31s to 33's) you'll have to evaluate based on your truck.

As for doing it yourself, its a judgement call that you have to make. If you feel you have the experience to do it, then do the research and do it. Definetly not is too strong, but it is difficult, so be careful

 

I went from 31's to 33's and left it stock ratio (4.56) for a while.

Regearing to 4.88's was one of the best things I've done. (I did ARB lockers at the same time, so if you include that, it was DEFINITELY the best thing I've done to the truck)

I would not do it yourself. It is finicky and very much a feel/look thing for the pattern. Take it to someone who does it all the time. NOTE: the $200/diff price is if you drop the thirdmember yourself and take it to them. Will be MUCH more expensive if you drop off the truck and they have to do that work too...

 

so i should take to the shop were they know what to do, are u saying take the axle to the shop off the truck or on the truck?


Putting lockers on the truck dose that makes it so when 4 wheel drive is in gear all 4 tires will move?

 

Don't need to take the whole axle - just the center section where the driveshaft attaches.


Yep - both wheels on the axle will turn at the same speed, making sure you can stay moving as long as one of the wheels has traction. If you have lockers in both axles, all 4 wheels turn the same speed, greatly increasing the off-road capability, but making turning very difficult.

 

what about spindles?

they do the same thing right? or no

so it is a good idea to change gears and put lockers in at the same time.

 

It will save you some money if you do the gears and lockers at the same time versus doing the gears first and then deciding you want lockers down the road.

use the search function to find some good threads about different lockers.