EGR / EVAP Delete
10-10-2018, 08:02 PM
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EGR / EVAP Delete
Ok so I have always wondered if it was worth deleteing the EGR and EVAP system or if it could even be done. About two years ago I swapped my 3.0 for the 3.4 and I was curious if there was any benefit, other then cleaning up clutter under the hood, to getting rid of that ugly charcoal canister. My check engine light has recently come on and it’s for the EGR vsv so rather then paying for a new switch I thought why not remove it in all. And is there a way to do so without leaving the check engine light on. Should I just replace the switch or start another project to remove everything?
10-10-2018, 09:47 PM
#2
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Yes, do this^^, assuming the Vacuum Switching Valve is the problem, but you are going to want to test it first before buying a new one.
What trouble code did you get when you scanned the ECU for codes? This is important, because we may be going down a rabbit hole if the code has more meanings than simply a VSV problem.
Did you test the Vacuum Switching Valve to see if it works? Do you know how to test the valve?
Do you know which Vacuum Switching Valve it is and where it is located?
You will probably cause more headaches than it is worth when you start ripping components off of the engine.
There is no real benefit to removing the EGR and Evaporative emissions systems.
From another recent thread:
Certainly not saying that it won't run fair, but..
Taking parts off and plugging up the holes where they had been is not often the way to go with electronically controlled fuel injection machines.
Neither the PAIR, nor the EGR rob the engine of significant power, and they play into the efficiency regime designed into the programming of the ECU.
Not only that, but the truck spews a little less nasty stuff when those systems work. Not too hard to make them right.
Taking parts off and plugging up the holes where they had been is not often the way to go with electronically controlled fuel injection machines.
Neither the PAIR, nor the EGR rob the engine of significant power, and they play into the efficiency regime designed into the programming of the ECU.
Not only that, but the truck spews a little less nasty stuff when those systems work. Not too hard to make them right.
Some people hear the scary words "emissions" and "EGR" and think back to a time when the "big three" American companies could not get things right when emissions standards started to take affect, and performance of their products suffered.
But now you have a much newer engine (which is not from the 1970s, or 'merican) where the problems have been ironed out and Electronic Fuel Injection has computer controlled systems that expect the EGR and other systems to be in place.
The Evaporative emissions system stores unused fuel vapor and re-introduces it into the engine for combustion when the ECU tells it to. Otherwise, the system would be venting fuel vapor directly to the atmosphere (not good for the environment or fuel economy).
Last edited by old87yota; 10-10-2018 at 09:49 PM.
10-11-2018, 05:52 AM
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Ok so I will just replace the switch but I was afraid that it wouldn’t be that easy. I had to make a hybrid of the two systems when I did the swap and I honestly do not know where this exact switch is. In my truck I believe I relocated it to the passenger side under the hood but there are two switches on the back of the intake manifold as well. I believe it’s one on the back side of the manifold. I also recently drove it from Seattle to Spokane and the light came on after that 5 hour drive. It has come on for the same thing in the past but it goes off shortly after. I used to live in central alaska so I thought it had something to do with drastic temperature change. Long story short it’s getting on my nerves and I want to know what exactly is going on.
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