I have searched up and down and left and right but no one answers this one small question: Why.

Why is it that everyone swaps the third member from a Tacoma into their 88-95 axle housing? Why not just swap the whole rear end?

I do want an E-locker at some point, it is really the only good option for me (heavily biased twards using OEM 'yota parts rather than adding a compressor just for a locker, etc), but would much rather swap the entire axle! Is the third member shorter? Is the axle longer?

I hear the Tacomas are wider than the ealier models but it is by less than an inch and it is all in the sheet metal, not the axles. It seems I am missing some critical piece of information.

Also, just a side note, I am thinking of getting a set of stock anti-sway bar links and cutting out a good inch or two out of them, welding on a tube, and drilling for a pin.. for "quick" disconnects. If you have a link to or have some solid good information on how to do this "best", not just an untried idea... let me know - thnx.

Sorry its such an Odd first post, but I usually just read more than post. There is still an infinite amout of information for me to learn on these trucks and I am mostly looking to just make my daily driver more capable on those random as ""LL detours between that gap in the trees off that newly found logging road. - Its all about having fun and keeping it capable and practical.

1989 X-cab delux 3vze (3.0 V6) Auto, 3inch body lift, 33" rubber, 230k miles with another 200k to go. Stock gearing, Stock IFS.

 

I am truely sorry. I have been reading the faq page on this site (it didnt come up on my searches) and it states the width of the axles.
I am leaving this up to know if there is any other reason as well though. I figure someone would have just thrown spacers in up front or used long travel IFS and t100 axles up front to match the width of the rear.. yet I hear nothing of this so far.. I will delete this (when I find how, or a mod deletes it for me and mostly for others sanity) if I dont get any good responses.

sorry---

 

a while back i asked the same question about just swapping a new taco axle under my 88 4runner. and the taco axle is wider/longer than my stock axle from what everybody told me.

i wouldn't go exactly by what i'm telling you, im just relaying the same exact message i was told.

you would have to move your spring mounts and stuff, but you could do it. but that's probably the reason most people just use the 3rd.

 

Hey i'm trying to do the same thing. My rig is a 92 truck. What year model were you getting the e locker from ? I know i gotta mod the diff housing. I'm just stumped on which e locker to get.

 

The width, the ebrake, and the spring perch width of the Tacoma axles are different. IMHO, it's more work to swap the whole axle than it is to modify your current housing for the elocker.

 

As long as you are going to use leafs it probably isnt too much work, just grind eevrything off the housing, mount perches and shock mounts and your done. that is what my buddy is doing. But if you have coils (90-95 4runners) just do the 3rd.

For sway bar dscoes. I had a system that I made that I LOVED. It used turn buckles. the only thing I would do differently is use a steel turn buckle. mine was Al (aluminum) and after a year te steel studs had worn down the Al turn buckle.

I had a thread but cant find it.

 

Au as in GOLD? That's BLING yo!

 

Hell yes! see I found I needed about 10.276 oz. of additional unsprung weight, precisely at that location. And Gold had the correct weight to volume.













































jerk.

 

Just throwing this out for original post. I haven't looked at the E-locker the same as you are, as I got a great price on an ARB. But I think it all comes down to ability. Either your ability to put the Tacoma axle under your truck or you ability to pay someone else to do it. Also the difference in purchasing just a 3rd and a whole axle. Many try to build these old trucks for as little as possible, you know a budget build. But you can put as much into it as you like or afford.

Some of the long travel front suspensions due use the t-1000 cv shafts but the won't adapt into the front stock truck/4rnr. Those kits a spending. Total chaos comes to ming but as I said their not really what I want so search on google. As I read an article on a 4wd magazines website but don't remember which one.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/SwayBar.shtml maybe you can figure out how to use this for an IFS rig. I totally pulled my sway bar out.

Welcome to YT.

 

Well I would just be waiting on a good part-out or buy a whole wrecked truck and take the 3.4L for later on down the road and the whole rear end rather than pull a third member, and send the rest to the scrapper before the zoning officer reminded me it is illegal in my city to do even an oil change outside of a closed garage (with the doors closed). Maybe but unlikely it would cost less for just the third member - most people here don't want you to leave them with "leftovers", but wrecking yards I could see the price drop. Craigslist. Its a life changer.

 

ok this has strayed too far I think...

 

thnx.

 

 

Cool, we're down the road from each other, We'll have to go wheelin in about a year.

 

Cool down the raod, we'll have to go wheeling in about a year.

opps on repost.

 

I don't get it 4rnr - how do they disconnect?

 

Its a turn buckle. So just rotate it and it disconnects. I guess you can also say they are adjustable.

 

Oh - got it, the factory end links are threaded into it...

 

no, I butt welded the studs to the sway bar links. I put a nut on the end of each stud to give me some more material to weld with.

 

I think I am just going to call NWOR on monday.. see if they have some. most the setups I have seen are not worth rigging up. I'd rather pay a little and pull a few pins than trust my life to something from home depot