My '86 4runner gets an SAS this winter. I'm wondering if I should consider front axles from other-than-Toyota; in particular I note that some Chevy/GMC trucks run the same 6x5.5 lug pattern, so maybe a Dana front axle from a Chevy truck would work.
What front axle should I look for, and from what donor vehicle? Would this be stronger, or cheaper/easier to buy or to fix? What about track widths?
I did search posts & the FAQ, if I missed something feel free to point that out.

 

In my opinion, the good side to dana axles is the use of a u-joint over a birfield joint.... the down side is the track width, which is usually much larger if its coming off of a full size. Toyota axles are good axles, and with a couple minor upgrades you shouldnt have any problems. Not to mention they are easier to work with in a toyota, and have an appropriate track width for a toyota.

 

I don't pretend to be an expert on the subject but I have been looking into it a little lately and I think that the stock Toyota front axle has a smaller track width than the rear of the '86 and newer trucks, therefore you would need to run wheel spacers to keep it even...

 

Im pretty sure your right intrepid, however, with wheel spacers, you may need more lift to prevent rubbing over the turning arc.... basically the farther the tires are out, the longer arc they create while turning, in doing so need more room to prevent rubbing.... hope that makes sense, cause its kinda mumbled in there....

 

There is a kit avaiable that will convert the birfield joints to dana44 ujoints

 

I think it is definitely worth considering a Dana 44 from a Chevy. Most 1/2 ton Chevy/GM trucks run a matching 6x5.5 bolt pattern. For a D44 you are looking at 70-85ish trucks.(very approximate) All will be low pinion passenger side drops. All of these axles will be wider than stock so that leaves you with having the tube and axles shortened if you want to match a Toy rear. Full size Jeeps 74-79 from used a narrower D44 that would be a closer width but I am not sure what bolt pattern those use.

D44 are generally said to be the equivalent to a Toyota solid front. Both can be built up with alloy shafts and joints if you are willing to spend the cash($600-700). A stock D44 can stand up to 35s with a mild motor and driveror better. A stock Toyota front can do about the same but I would see the stock Birfields as a larger weakness. I wouldn't do a u-joint conversion since the cost of Longfields or other fixes isn't that much more and they are much better. The Toy will have better clearance and lower weight. With CTMs and alloy shafts the D44 will be able to handle 38s but the manual hubs will be a weak point. With 30 spline Longfields the Toy front should be nearly bulletproof aside from ring gear failure. Both ujoints and birfields can be fixed on the trail and the ease really boils down to the person doing the work. Compared directly a D44 will have better turning radius than a Toy due to the use of u-joints.

What is it you need/want:
wider track for stabilty or matching width to rear
how strong do you need it(ie what size tire and motor, more importantly driving style)
ease of install
cost and availability

Some additional discussion is here, but there is much more at the site:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...light=dana+d44

If you don't want the width I'd probably do a Toy since you will match the rear.
Geoff

 

also keep in mind gear ratios.i think after 488s nothing else matches the chevy stuff

 

4.10, 4.56 and 4.88 would be your only gear options if you run the 44. Like mentioned before, the track width will be much wider from a fullsize 44. I'm gonna guess around the 65-67" width range. And I know the yota axles are quite a bit less than that. Plus when you can get Longs and cromo inners, why do dana? Might as well keep it all Yota since you have a 1st gen. That truck was made for a yota axle and nothing else for a relatively mild swap.

I vote for the Yota axle with Longs and call it done

 

that kit is expensive also......


look into a d30 or a d44 from a jeep or a bronco/f150... you can always have its width cut down.... as far as the right bolt pattern, there are a few companies that will modify and axle to accept any bolt pattern, and they are stout

 

A D30? Why bother, they're probably weaker than a toy IFS.

The birfield eliminator kit is useless now that longfields are out.

 

D30s are junk. Not even worth the mention. Cutting down the axle is a possibility, but too much hassle getting the knuckles square and where you want them. Find an axle that has a width close to your rear. It will take a lot of the unnecessary work out and you can have a very stout wheeler.

 

Hey, I know someone that has Yukon 5.38's in his Dana 44 and that guy can flog it all day long...........

 

Well thats because you're Steve Schaefer and you have a Dana 44!

OK OK, so you can run 5.38's up front with the 44, but my vote still goes to the built yota axle for your 1st gen.

And stop butting in on other people's threads! GAWD!

 

A 1979 or eariler Jeep Wagonner will have a passenger side drop Dana 44 that is the exact width of your IFS rear axle. Same 6-5.5 bolt pattern.

80-82 were still narrow but drivers side drop, YJ swap axles.

83-91 are Toyota Nissan new stuff swap axles. Driver side drop.

Find a 70' Waggy and Flog that thing all day long. Also it will be more expensive to go all Cro-Mo with Dana. Toyota axles are cheaper to build up, just re-inforce that houseing were the ring gear protrudes. I welded on one of those on Sunday and that sucker is way too thin, the newer houseings are much thicker.

 

you'd think everyone would know that, but jimabena has to get a post in this thread somehow.

the stay-with-toyota and longs, or waggy sound sound like good, tried and true routes to me.

 

Take what you got, put an 84/85 4Runner or equivalent pick up SFA under it, use 1.5" wheel spacers, upgrade the inners to chromo and throw away the birfs and put some 30 spline Long's in there and forgetaboutit. Stock birfs are weak yes, 30 spline Long's make a Toy axle almost as strong as a 60 and IMO much better and stronger than a 44 (30 ) and you still retain all your gearing options. Why mix and match makes on your equipment if you don't have to? Stick w/ the Toy front axle if you are keeping the 86 rear end.

 

I didn't know you can flog anything with a 2.7L 4banger...

 

Oh yes you can, it can spin 35" MT/R's pretty good. Must be the LC Header..............

 

 

That's ALL 4 at the same time too......