just thinking of ways other than SAS to make front ifs on my 96 tacoma stronger.

one idea thats sort of out there that i had is to make a dummy tube brace that basically makes the front wheels move together. like what a solid axle would accomplish but retaining the stock ifs setup.

just an idea.

 

That just sounds alot like a sway bar... The only thing I could really think of to make your IFS "stronger" would be to somehow reduce the CV angles.

 

Carry spare axles and have a light foot.

 

not a sway at all.

itd be like welding a support to both hubs so there could be no more toe or camber changes. like solid axle.

not done this way though. just for reference.

 

Strength wise, the control arms and articulating parts are pretty good, but a good skidplate, like BudBuilt (check out the group buy deal!) is a necessity.

The breakage problem is with the CV's and/or diff. Depending on what kind of 'wheeling you do, lockers may help protect the front end or hurt it. If you're in mud, etc where you have a lot of wheelspin the locker will help by minimizing the need to spin up the wheel fast then having it come down and loading up the torque. If you're in rocks where you could wedge a tire, the locker will hurt.

Manual hubs may act as a "fuse" - and since they are so easy to replace, it would be the preferred breakage.

As for CV's, there are some stronger ones out there - CV Unlimited comes to mind - but they will still probably be the weak link. Fortunately, they are not that hard to replace. Note that in the Tacoma you CANNOT DRIVE WITHOUT THE OUTER SHAFT IN PLACE. You MUST carry at least an outer shaft, if not a whole CV, as a trail spare.

 

yeah ill be making skids over break with my new miller plasma and tig :-)

im just an engineer thinking of new things.

 

Also something like this would help keep everything square... I really need to get one...

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Early_IFS_Brace.html

 

i have a 96...but im sure i could make something like that that should work. thanks.

 

any other thoughts?

the main concern w/ ifs is just cv's right. nothing else is relatively "weak"?

 

Check out BruceTS's rig. He's got IFS and has done some serious wheeling. Like the others said, if you're light on the gas, the IFS can be the best of both worlds: Offroad capability and on-road comfort. Of course, when you start getting crazy in the rocks, and need bomber strength and killer articulation, then that's where the SAS starts looking really good. Having had both and wheeled both, both have their pros and cons. For what I do, IFS works just fine....

 

The only way to do that is to cut out the IFS and put in a SA. Sorry - been talked about many times before: straight tierod on IFS. Won't work. In fact, it will make the toe changes worse.

All you can really do, IMHO:
Rebuild and maintain your steering rack.
Run good springs/shocks
Run a knuckle brace
Good skid plates
Manual Hub kit
Custom Machined CV's
Stronger A-arms
Plate everything.

But what have you really accomplished?

 

No, it would be an anti anti sway bar.

fox, I have several words fo you...Cross linked shocks.

Of course it's a lot harder to do on a tacoma, but here's the theory:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/air_shocks/

 

i guess ill look at this more when im under my truck and just end up bracing a bunch of stuff since i love welding...

if anyone else has anymore input go ahead.

thanks

 

Some people have said that front lockers strengthen the IFS, I completely disagree with it.

As for keeping it strong, its really not all that weak. Seems like all the wanna-be web wheelers can't get over how crappy IFS is. Truth is, its not as strong as a solid axle, no ÅÅÅÅ. Just don't go rock crawling and you wont break anything. If you want to do rock crawling, dont buy a brand new tacoma/4runner, get a POS first gen or old chevy with a straight axle.

Not like Im a crazy offroader guy, thats why I have my truck. I drive 90% on-road, but I LOVE Baja, and I love the desert. I just dont do crazy stuff in it, but its funny capable of doing so much.

Just my opinion!

 

There is nothing wrong with the IFS suspension, it's very strong and can take quite a bit of abuse. The problem is the driveline, from the CV's to the small front diff. Even if you put in stronger CV's, then the jackshaft becomes the weak link, adding an ARB locker will help prevent carrier/spider gear breakages. I've pushed my IFS to the limit and have broken an inner CV, outer CV, axle shaft and jackshaft.

 

how did you modify tundra axles to work bruce?

 

I don't believe a front locker makes the IFS stronger, but it makes you less likely to break. When open, i spun the tires, and then the trruck would come down, violently stopping the tire. After the locker, i don't spin, and can go much slower through things. Not stronger, just less breakage.

Why not rock crawl with a new truck? I know plenty who do. They hang and axle and go. Those who want body damage or don't care get body damage, and those who want a clean truck still have it.

Its all about not being an idiot on the trail. If you drive like a yahoo, then you will break. If you are prudent, and know what you are doing, you can get through with no damage.

3rd gen IFS is stronger than the 2nd and 1st gen. Difference is that the 3.4 has a whole lot more power than the 3.0 and the 2.4. Guys like bruce will break it because they are pushing their junk. He seems okay with it, no?

Most of the people worried about a solid axle were told that their IFS is weak. They haven't broken it, they are just worried about it. I haven't broken anything yet, but i'm prepared if i do. I also wheel with folks who will help me out if i break beyond what ive got in the truck.

As for the idea of the welding bar or something to the arms to make it move like a soild axle, i'd say this. First off, this sounds very very bad. The idea of IFS is that it's independent. It's supposed to move the way it does. Secondly, the IFS is attached ridgedly to the frame. A solid, or LIVE, axle is not, its attached by flexy springs or springs and links. So by attaching the two arms together, you will have made a solid axle type set up, but its more in line with an axle actually welded to the frame, and i doubt you'd get the results you are looking for. Lastly, why bother? Unless you have actually had issues with the flex, and you are limited by just your flex because you have 2 lockers, skid plates, and a crawler, then yes, i'd say mess with it or hang an axle. Otherwise, spend time and money elsewhere.

 

time isnt a problem and i wouldnt just weld and go. there would be a lot of design and other things that went into it.

i got a good answer from this thread so ill be fine.

how long does it take you to swap axles on a trail if needed?

and how do you modify tundra axles to work w/ tacomas?

 

on a second or first gen with the studs removed and replaced with bolts, 12 mins.

I'm sure someone here knows how long to do a 3rd gen.

 

looking for 3rd gen/tacoma advice. probably around the same though.

replace what studs w/ bolts?