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Another lift question. I did searches

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Old 11-08-2005, 06:59 AM
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Another lift question. I did searches

I want to lift my truck( 94 ). I want it high enough to fit at least 33's hopefully 35's. I am not looking for lots of wheel travel. This is my DD.
I don't want a harsh ride, again its my DD.

Don't want to spend a fortune. I have talked to Roger via email about ball joint spacers and shackles.

I have looked at several different lift kits.

The rear lift seems to be pretty standard using blocks.

The front lift seems to be done by either moving the upper control arm or changing the steering knuckle.

what are the pros and cons of each type of front lift?

here is an example of the steering knuckle kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-96...13027764QQrdZ1

thanks for your input.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:44 AM
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Buck - if you're not looking to spend a lot of money I assume that you won't be regearing? 35s are really going to affect the performance of your 4 cyl engine...

Sorry, I know it's not answering anything you're asking but I see that you have some engine performance mods and you're going to kill those gains with the larger tires.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:50 AM
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For a daily driver I would go with a basic lift kit that drops the front diff. (Rough country, trailmaster etc.) Available in the $600 price range. This keeps the stock geometry and doesn't kill the CVs. It's cheap and simple. They call them 4" but they are really 3" - you get the extra inch (to go to 4") in front by cranking the t-bars (don't do it.) The blocks in the rear are 'okay,' but you get axle wrap and I hate that feeling. Plus it shortens the rear driveline life. You could do one of the inexpensive kits with blocks now and upgrade to a pair of rear springs later if you wanted. With 3" nominal you will clear 33s nicely. You probably couldn't run 35s.

OR - you could do a 3" body lift. That's the cheapest by far, it modifies nothing, and will clear 33s.

There are a lot of other options, but anything fancier you do will cost more money, and most of the best off road mods sacrifice some daily driver practicality and/or longevity.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:52 AM
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33s are Really gonna affect the performance of a 4cyl - but with 35s he could just run in low range around town... :pat:
Old 11-08-2005, 09:21 AM
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I had talked about the re-gearing with Roger. I had planned on gearing to 529's.
Old 11-08-2005, 09:33 AM
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Forgot to comment on the BL statement above.

From what I have read with the BL you have concerns there also with bumper gaps,shifter binding,gas tank filler hose,brake line extensions and the LSPV.

am I even in the ball park on this or did I mis understand?

Thanks for your input.
Old 11-08-2005, 10:17 AM
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I guess when I said I dont want to spend a fortune I may have mislead you.

I want to lift the truck for a reasonable amount. Not a trail rig dont need long travel or harsh ride.

I planned on the regearing..was thinking of possibly adding a locrite at the same time.

If I can't get the needed lift from the kit above for 35's maybe adding a 1 inch BL.

I am getting the truck painted soon also.

I want a good daily driver that looks nice and will get me up and down my HILL (use the term loosely).

oh and of course I want all of this done for no money : P
Old 11-08-2005, 10:47 AM
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LOL but of course. An another hundred horsepower (for no money) would be sweet too!

You shouldn't have "issues" with any of that stuff if you do a body lift - you address those issues as part of the lift! My BL came with front brackets to raise the bumper to match the body. Nothing for the rear, but as yet I still don't have a bumper back there. (Soon, real soon.) The brake lines didn't have to be extended for the BL, but they did when the 4" suspension went in. The gas filler is usually good, but a longer hose is easy enough. The kit came with an extension for the steering column too, ass well as an extension (just a piece of metal) for the LSPV. The shifter does not attach to the body so why should it bind? The Tcase lever gets awful close the the rear of console covering the hole, but not the hole. (I went with Marlin short throws on both levers anyway and love em. Highly recommended great way to spend $180.) I'm not necessarily advocating the BL, but it has caused me Zero problems. I suspect most of the people who hate em never had em. I've also heard stories of flexing and squeaking and clunking - mine never has.

529s is perfect for 35s. Unless you really just want the look, 33s are much more practical for DD use. The 35s (and the overall height that goes with em) affects your streetability (ride, handling, cornering, braking etc) quite a bit, but the 33s didn't really hurt much. 35s are not only tall but heavy. Makes a big difference.
Old 11-08-2005, 10:58 AM
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I am looking for the same thing, I bought a 92 truck with a 3" torsion twist and want to go to a real lift instead. I want to be trail capable but I am not looking to go axle swap or extreme travel if I can help it. I would like to improve the travel though. I am planning on a 2" BL in the near future and a 3-4" lift. I need an on-line source for my 92. If anyone has a source I would really appreciate it. In Fairbanks, Alaska there really aren't too many off road shops.
Old 11-08-2005, 11:10 AM
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Flamed:
WHere did you get your BL? from Roger?

The shifter issue ( I read) was caused by the lever coming back and hitting the body and keeping it from going into 4 wheel drive.

Jeepin:

Check out 4crawler.com for BL, plus all round good info.
Old 11-08-2005, 11:15 AM
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i understand the boat youre in man. i wanted to get 35s under my truck really bad too. im driving a 94 4runner which is pretty similar to what youre driving. the 35s are just impractical in most cases. theres a lot more involved in putting 35s under a truck than just gears and clearance. like stated above, its going to affect other areas such as braking and requirement of extensions for things on the vehicle. not only that but thats a lot of rubber for the IFS to handle. the IFS can take some abuse, but from what ive heard, 35s can be bad news and brake lots of parts if all precautions arent taken care of. just something to think about. and since this is JUST a daily driver, and not a trail rig, you may get away with those 35s on the road, its just going to kill your acceleration and any performance you have. and from the sounds of it, you need to get that truck up and down some hills... running 35s up and down those hills is going to kill you. just my 2cents. good luck with your project tho. keep us posted.
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