I have been reading about 3rd gen lifts for quite sometime now looking at all the threads and searching all the threads for answers and soon i will be getting a lift and just needed some conformations. so please help
I am looking for a 2.5 " lift on a 99 4runner limited what i wanted to do was have 33" tires along with saws in the front. unsure as to wheter they will be the 2.0" dia or 2.5" dia first question is which is better. then id like to have ome set ups in the rear like to go withe the 891 coils dont know for shocks. also in front I thought I needed a new upper control arm like the camburgs or the tc's but i guess if i do a diff drop that will be cheaper and better?????? most liokely i will do a 2" or 1" inch BL along with this set up. Id like a firm ride so i dont need a cushy one. I off road so far once every month or so it is still my DD. So to make it easier here are the questions im really looking into

1) What will a 2.0" dia do differently then a 2.5" dia on the saws?
2) what to get for the rear shocks for OME?
3) Do i need new upper control arms if i have a diff drop? what are the benefits from one opposed to the other?
4) Are there any problems known in this set up that peopl have run into??
5) Am I missing anything else?

btw I have read that 15 page link made by bachem and others like it but these are the questions i still feel puzzled. again any help will be appreciated because i do plan on buying this stuff soon but just need to make sure that im not going to buy one set up and find out later i need to put another grand or more into it after i have budgeted for the original stuff. Thanks agian in adavance




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get the ome medium shocks for the rear i think they are n91s also i would just stick with the diff drop, it works fine

 

aside from price whats the difference between the diff drop as opposed to the upper control arm?

 

Go with the Tundra/OME setup instead of the SAWs.
It's cheaper and better.

 

The diff drop is cheap insurance for your CV angle (reduces the extreme angle).

The upper control arms aren't necessary from the start.... I would decide if you need those after you put on your lift.

 

when would i need the upper control arms then? at a bigger lift? and if i decide llater for the arms do i have to take the diff drops out?

 

The upper arms can fix tire rubbing issues (by pushing the tire out a little further), provide a little more droop, and are 'supposed' to be stronger.
Many consider them to be unneccessary bling.

The diff drop and new upper arms don't really have anything to do with one another.

 

1) the 2.5" shock is much better quality with a better spring selection Look into the Donahoe/ TC or Camburg, easiest way to upgrade, but costly..... PM Calrocks, ask him how he likes his.

2) OME's for the rear, really depends on how much of a load you normally carry, I have the standard N86 and love them. Use the N86c for a softer ride

3)Upper control arms don't have anything to do with using a diff drop. Diff drop gives you about a 1/2" of actual difference, in which every little bit counts when lift is the major concern. The A-arm is needed if you plan to have more droop than the stock ball joint can handle, also to clear the wider tires. If you use the special Donahoes with an additional 1" of travel you'll need the uniball upper a-arms.

4) When ever you add aftermarket parts, you must check clearances, some haven't and have complained about minor problems. For example an URBAN legend that has gone around for quite some time now is that the Total Chaos upper A-arms can punch a hole through the inner fender well, from the bolt holding the uniball assembly. To this day I have NEVER seen a photo or have had anyone with first hand experience. The only story I've heard is of one person that did it by jumping his truck, in which case there are many other factors to consider. Either which way it is still uncomfirmed. All this wouldn't matter, since your planning to run a body lift.

5) Body lift, look into getting a 1 1/2" better for clearing the larger tires.


Be careful in considering the Tundra/OME set-up with stock a-arms, they have a tendency to over extend the suspension causing upper ball joint damage, you'll need to run limit straps.

 

Actually they give more clearance between the tire and suspension and the Uniball design arms don't push the wheels out any further.

The Uniball arms are much stronger than stock, as for unneccessary bling, to each his own, it's all about bling, one form or another. If your gonna run the Donahoe's with an additional droop it is a needed bling or with the Tundra/OME set-up without limit straps it is needed as well.

 

This is true, if you don't get limiting straps with the Tundra setup your upper ball joints will eventually get bashed to death. =\

 

thanks very much guys. im not really considering the tundra coils since i wanted something with an adjustment in height. I mean the ideal set up will be at least 2.5". what im also noticing is that none seems to talk about SAWS anymore and when i started this little venture a while back trhats what evrybody wanted. im curious now as to what problems or why people are choosing Camburgs and Donahoes which are a couple to few hundred dollars more than the saws? also if im looking for a firmer ride (which I assume is the same as stock) what number OME would that be?

 

btw im looking at the roger brown BL's and i dont see a 1.5" so i may choose the 2" i dont think this should effect it too much ....????

 

you can get any size body lift, they are just priced in 1" increments, so if you get a 1.5" its the same cost as 2". but with 2", you might have more modifications to do.

 

wheres the best place to buy the suspension kits? some place that has both donahoes and camburg?BL i just have to contact roger brown. still kinda wondering about those coilovers compared to saws though. it doesnt seem that xtreme ofroad posts much here anymore

 

anyone about them saws?

 

As far a 4crawler BL, drop him a line and he can get yo any size BL you need.