oil filter
#1
I just completed oil change on my 2003 Sequoia. I pulled the skid plate to get to oil filter. Next time I may just let oil run down onto skid plate. Do you people remove skid plate every oil change ?
I installed the Purolator PL10241 oil filter. I went to Purolator web site to verify that it was the correct filter. It was shorter than OEM. Does anyone know of an aftermarket filter that is same physcial size as OEM. A larger filter would be even better.
If I had known before draining crankcase I would of returned purolator filter and looked for one same size. Next time I will be better prepared.
I installed the Purolator PL10241 oil filter. I went to Purolator web site to verify that it was the correct filter. It was shorter than OEM. Does anyone know of an aftermarket filter that is same physcial size as OEM. A larger filter would be even better.
If I had known before draining crankcase I would of returned purolator filter and looked for one same size. Next time I will be better prepared.
#2
On my T100
I do remove the skid guard each time I replace my filter... it just makes reaching easier as I replace it from underneath. I wouldn't personally let it drain on the skid guard as it will be a dirt and grime trap.
You ought to just use OEM oil filters. They aren't but a buck or two more expensive than FRAM or equivalent subsitutes and are better (somewhere I read a review of a chemical engineer and his testing different oil filters on his truck, he actually sent the oil in for testing after each oil filter and oil change, his results favored OEM). If you buy them by the lot they come out the same price.
TIP: Just drive your front end up on a curb or jackstands. You should be able to nearly sit under the front end and remove the guard. This orientation also favors oil draining toward the back of the pan.
You ought to just use OEM oil filters. They aren't but a buck or two more expensive than FRAM or equivalent subsitutes and are better (somewhere I read a review of a chemical engineer and his testing different oil filters on his truck, he actually sent the oil in for testing after each oil filter and oil change, his results favored OEM). If you buy them by the lot they come out the same price.
TIP: Just drive your front end up on a curb or jackstands. You should be able to nearly sit under the front end and remove the guard. This orientation also favors oil draining toward the back of the pan.
#3
There's a ton of research out there on oil filters etc. OEM is fine as long as you get the "better" OEMs, which are the 90915-20004 filters for the Toyota 4.7 liter engine as opposed to the 90915-YZZB5 as the 20004 has more filter material and an internal bypass valve, which the YZZB5 doesn't. They sell for $7.25 each or $7 in case lot, which is 10 filters. The Mobil 1 and Amsoil filters are as good as they get - Amsoil SDF-15 is a little larger than your initial stock while the Mobil 1 is a dinky creature but does an excellent job of filtering. PureOne is 10X better than an ordinary Purolator and also has a lot of filter material and an internal bypass valve. They run around the $5 mark. I'm pretty sure the 20004, Mobil 1, Amsoil and PureOne all filter out particles over 16 microns and probably even small than that. Running synthetic motor oil you'll only have to change oil once every 6 months with these filters unless you travel more than 7500 to 9,000 miles in a six (6) month period.
#4
I work inside and Exxon Mobil plant and I talked to a lab teck about mobil 1 oil and the filters. He runs this in his car and runs for 10k changes the filter adds some oil and runs for 10k more. Not sure if I trust it that much. I only run 4k change the filter and run for 4k more, I feel safe with that.:alien:
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