Ok guys what are the things to look out for when buying an FJ80?
I looked at the guidelines on Slee's site already. Any other gotcha's or things that normally fail on the 80's? How much are these problems to fix?

It is a 1995 model and has 140k miles. Is that too much for these cruisers?
It has new brakes (rotors and pads), plugs, plugwires, dist cap, etc.

It has factory lockers, leather, etc so what would be a good price?

 

Oh no! Andries you are on the slippery slope to multiple-suv ownership& mod-fever!

You have to read up at ih8mud.com/forums for all the info. Look at "80's tech" section. There are a few threads on pricing for various years.

I think the big thing is if the birfields have been replaced or repacked. That's a big job and it's better if they had it done, rather than you. also, wary of headgasket issues so check for that.

 

Thanks man, I have checked them out as well. Pretty good site for cruisers.

Yeah after seeing Biff's (Victor) 80 at Pismo I started looking at them again. They are just so sweet. Now it is just to figure out the finances

 

Talk to victor as he did alot of homework. I'm sure he'll be able to give you a lending hand on all the details to watch for.

 

Cool I'll check with him as well.

 

It sounds like you've gotten the right start. Christo's web site is full of information, and tons of mods to drool over too! Like you said birfields, and headgasket are some of the major issues. I think the headgasket thing could get pretty pricy. I know I guy that is having that done right now. We'll see in a little while what that damage runs. Make sure the diff-locks work. A lot of people never really know what they are for, or they were just never used.

Regarding 140k on the odometer. That is up to you. It is a Toyota and should run for years, I have seen them still running strong at 200k+. I have a 1994 with 139k on it. What do you plan on doing with it. I know some people who don't want that kind of mileage. But they want brand new car reliability. That kind of mileage doesn't bother me. It's a Toyota!

You didn't say how much, but I would guess anywhere from $11000-14500.

They are great vehicles. I have owned mine for only six months and love it.

 

I want to use for sort of second daily driver and my main vechile to go wheeling. So I will probably first use it for a while on pavement to work through all the maintenance required, etc. Then mostly use it for wheeling trips. I dont mind spending a bit of time to fix things up initially, but I'm not interested in fixing it up all the time. From what I have heard that should not be an issue.

If the lockers show they are in position as in the lights stop flashing, they are in right? Or what else is a quick check to make sure they work?

 

I am sure you know, but just in case...There is a center diff switch that some people think is the locker switch when you ask about it. To the left of the steering wheel is the diff lock switch. Sorry, probably redunant.

When you engage the lockers, you must be in 4low. The rear diff light will start flashing, once it stops. The rear is locked. The same goes for the front.

Oh, and not that I encourage this...but...I have heard of people looking for 80's and when they find out it has lockers. Act as if it is something that is undesirable. Thus trying for the cheaper price.

 

I had a loaded '96. There is no center diff lock switch standard, but is sometimes added by owners aftermarket so they can engage it in 4Hi.

The head gasket issue must be checked. It never developed into a full-blown recall, but affected many anyway. The low end repair cost is $1,000. The high end is a new short block for $4,500. Absolutely, positively, get a cylinder compression and leakdown check on pre-purchase inspection.

When you cycle the lockers, check for the speed of engagement and disengagement. It should take no longer than 4-5 seconds for each diff to lock or unlock. Any longer means actuator repairs are in order, a messy DIY project.

When you check for rust, first look at the roof rack mounting points by raising or even removing the rack.

Honestly, I'd get a late '95 or '96 to get the fully electronic transmission, although some would disagree. Then you'll also get the latest OBDII emissions controls that include inline catalytic converters.

They're great rigs and fairly plentiful. They've taken a major price hit with $2/gal. gas and the new model year curtailment. You should find a nice, low mileage '96 for around $12K if you're patient. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the input guys. It is good info to build up a checklist for the rig.

 

The 95 has the inline cats and the newer transmission.
Most lockers have never been used by their original owners -- I wouldn't be too concerned if it takes a while for them to engage initially. Many have reported slow engagement, but it improves as you "exercise" them. Mine engage pretty much immediately.

When testing the lockers, make sure you're off pavement and are moving AFTER you engage them. If you're sitting still, they'll flash at ya all day and night long. You need to be moving for the gears/dog clutch to engage.

I wouldn't be too concerned with the mileage you posted -- not bad at all. Make sure you get a good baseline (assuming you purchase) and swap out all fluids and repack the birfs when you get a chance -- there's no telling when it was done (if ever).

 

Thanks. I'm still patiently looking, decided not to rush it at all.

 

....what are birfields??... or birfs..or whatever... ( me the FJ80 noob! )

 

The front axle equivalent of CV's at the wheel itself, is probably the best why I can describe it.

 

140k on an FJ is nothing. I expect my 94 to last me another 200k easily, even with some mild offroading. 11mpg on my cruiser, and 15mpg on my runner is a downer though, but I'm not complaining.

 

bulldog (how did you get yours to pose like that in your avatar?), I thought you'd find this interesting. It's a link to an FJ-80 eBay sale in progress. I think the '97 40th Anniversary w/lockers is THE most desirable 80 made. This one has all the right equipment, mileage and is in salt-free Florida. I'd move on it if I weren't looking for a 100 now. This one could wind up in high 12's low 13's and worth it.

 

He is not really a poser, he just looks like that if he is checking something out.

Thanks for the link, I have been looking at this one. I'm still pretty reluctant to bid on an eBay cruiser. There seems to be a few down in FLorida, unfortunately the seller has not responded to any of my messages. I asked for some info and pics of the undercarriage and no reply to date. So I'll probably pass, unless he gets back to me.

 

Agreed, it takes a leap of faith and an assurance of post-purchase inspection and approval to get me interested in eBay. Given that he hasn't responded, coupled with hidden user ID's (a highly suspicious shill bid scam), I'd pass too.

 

Yeah the guy looks pretty shady. I looked at some of his feedback, the ones still listed he thanks somebody for buying a MB or BMW from him, while the actual sale was a book he bought!!! Something smells fishy!! The funny part is the books are all Christian books?????????