I have a 69 FJ40 it has a vaccum acuated transfer case. It works well, but I would like to change it to a manual twin stick this is my first land cruiser and I have not been able to find a bolt on kit. If you know of such a kit or any ideas they would be greatly appricaited. JONNYFJ

 

Not many 40-series people here. You will probably find the answer to your question here: IH8Mud 40 & 50-Series Tech

 

No kits that I know of. You have to change the front nose to a manual shift type.

I have pics of a home made unit on a 76 TC The trans is a SM420, but you get the idea.

See this post
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f25/...cruiser-76872/

 

Ya, find a nose cone off a later (mid to late 70s) manual t-case and it will bolt on. Just not a split case.

 

Do you know if the transfer case that is in it was originlly for a automatic transmission or is that how they came

 

Automatic xmsns were never a factory option in a 40 series in NA. Never ever, ever with a one piece t-case like yours. The early cruisers like yours came with vacume shift t-cases and some had 3 on the tree. I don't know what years those features changed. Most guys get greif from them and change to full manual like you want to do.

 

Thats what I have been told. It looks like all I need to do is fine a manual nose, and it will bolt up. Do you know of anyone ever doing that. Another ? you run 36's on your 40 how much lift do you have and do they rub

 

I think quite a few people have bolted up the manual nose cones, but I have not. I think you will want one off a "3 speed" t-case, which is a 74 and earlier 10 spline input case if you want the drive shaft flange to be the same as yours. When I say 3 speed I'm referring to the tranny, and the drive shafts on those t-cases have a smaller bolt pattern, the same as mini truck stuff. Otherwise you can get one up to 78 (I think). The later ones have more ribs on them and will be stronger but may have issues with the drive shaft flange. Somewhere along the way they changed to fine spline and the earlier flange won't go on. You could get a mini truck d/s flange if you do end up with a later fine spline output. Go here and read up. http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/tcase_tech/ I am at work for a few more days so I don't have access to all my junk to look at. Thats all I have off the top of my head but that article should tell you a few things. Heres another page that has a ton of links http://www.ih8mud.com/cruisertech.php Let me know how you make out and if this all makes sense. I might have a spare but you should be able to find one without paying shipping from Canada.

As for the tires, I am Sprung under and have 2.5" Ironman springs in the front (don't buy them) and FJ45 springs out back which stretched the wheelbase a lot. The rear fenders are cut as much as they can be and they fit nice. I also have 1/2" extra bs on the wheels, with out that much the tires will rub the inner side wall bad. As for the fronts, the shocks are all that stops the tires from tearing the hell out of the fenders. The tires also touch the springs at full turn. I certainly hear when I'm at full stuff but it just rubs paint off the inner wheel wells on the back. I have all the stuff for SOA and 60 series axles but no time!

 

Do you think 4 inches with wheel spacers will be able to run the 37's

 

Hard to say, if thats the cruiser in your avitar I think you will have to trim a bit and maybe ditch the flares. My 36s are prolly about the same size as 37" BFGs or MTRs. What are you running now? If its 35s then you will only be adding an inch on top so if you stuff the tires you can look and see you have an inch to spare.

 

I think you should call Mark @ http://www.marksoffroad.net/ He's a really nice guy and has tons of info and parts. I met him at Moab a couple years ago. He will definately hook you up with the right parts.

 

yes thats is my cruiser in the pic the 35's run fine, little tight in the back end the flares can come off. I really don't like them any was. What you think of wheel spacers?

 

Lots of guys think you need to be SOA to run 35s or larger, thats not true. How much have your fenders been cut? They will prolly need to be cut to the top of the wheel well and maybe in the front and rear of the opening.

I'm not a fan of spacers, I plan on a 60 series rear and doing the IFS hubs up front to get the extra width up. If your 35s are 12.5 wide, then 37 x 12.5s will prolly be alright. Do you just want the extra width anyway or just to clear the wheel wells a little more? Marlin Crawler makes nice quality ones for around $100/pair I think. I wouldn't trust cheep ones, and make sure they come with studs cause they aren't cheep either. Everything MC makes is nice! If you just need 1/4" or so, you could get generic chevy ones and longer studs. That isn't an quick job though, pulling axles and stuff.

As for fender flares, I don't like them either, BUT, they can be required to keep the fuzz off your tail... I plan on something custom, trails around here are tight enough without worrying about flares.

Let me know how you make out with this stuff. We have kinda hijacked you thread too!