Just got done setting up my SCX10 with the R2 transmission using the 2 speed unit as well as disconnect. Its taken a lot of careful thinking to make sure it will all function right. The biggest issue was getting around the terrible drive shaft angles from moving the outputs inward. Typically the transmission is mounted flat and the driveshafts are offset but theres no way it will work unless you stretch the wheelbase to a rediculous unscale length.

Now I can select 2 wheel drive hi, 2 wheel drive low, 4 wheel drive hi, 4 wheel drive lo and lock the front wheels for a burnout all from the remote. If I drag race and shift too fast without letting off the throttle enough it grinds just like a real truck. The tires even squeal on cement, It is waaay too much fun haha.

Truck info:

Its a 91 4Runner I built to resemble my 94 4Runner using the SCX10 chassis. I have spent many hours beefing up and fully waterproofing this truck and run it off a traxxas brushless with 11.1v lipo. I will have to post the higher res pictures of it underwater and all the hill climb/creek crossing its done. I love this thing it does awesome on the trails.

I have repainted this body 3 times, now its a 4 door

It has the RC4WD aluminum SR5 wheels and soon to be finished chrome grill set, with head lights, turn signals, marker lights, painted valence, grill and toyota emblems.


Just waiting on the waterproof servos and steel driveshafts



front dig setup




Previous setup




The grill on the left is what happens when you buy a reproduction grill set. I pulled the tape off after painting the very last part and already had the marker lights and turnsignals on.

The one on the right is an original one I just got in from overseas and is in progress. I think the chrome is gonna stick much better






When I get the new stripe kit for my 94 4runner im gonna use the old stripes to recreate the graphics on the rc truck so they are 100% correct.



A peice of rebar ripped the bumper mounts so I went ahead and trimmed it off

 

that thing looks good man!

I'm too rough on my RC's to be into the scalers anymore... seemed like as soon as I finished spending a bunch of time making something so small and delicate, I'd break it as soon as I actually drove the rig, lol


I can only imagine how that thing must run with the Velineon system and 3s! what gearing are you running? any shots with the lid off?

 

Thanks, I dont know how many hours ive spent just building it up and making it function.

I know what you mean, I have rolled this body down soooo many hills and repainted it 3 times already. I was gutted the first time I rolled it over and since its got tons of rash. I do have 2 more of these bodies that im gonna paint up so I can have at least one that wont ever get rolled and looks nice. Ive broken the trans outputs, a drive shaft, the steering arm and a few days ago stripped out the main gear on the trans. Now im gonna set it up to have 2 wheel drive, 4hi and 4lo selectable from the remote instead of fixing that pos trans they come with.

Right now Im running a 84t spur because any bigger and it will rub the steel rear drive shaft cup. The pinion is a 12t. With the new trans it will have a much lower gear even with a bigger pinion and the high gear will give it more wheel speed for hill climbs. I turned the truck down to 50% because even at that it breaks driveline parts every time I take it out. I have yet to kill the battery before it breaking 2 or 3 times and I am carefully about how treat the driveline.

 

you should look into the Robinson Racing gears for the trans; they're pretty much bullet proof





I put them in a Wraith trans that I put in my SCX10 that I use to have. same gears, the out drives are just a little different. at least the Wraith's stock out drives are steel, unlike the SCX10's aluminum ones but they do make a solid steel final drive gear for the SCX10 trans that is the gear and out drives all together. I can honestly say that I've NEVER heard of anyone breaking those

 

Yeah that looks like a pretty solid setup. If I were keeping my trans I would definitely be buying those gears.

I just bought the RC4WD trans that allows me to shift from 2 wheel drive into 4 hi and 4 low as well as lock the axle so I can do a nice burnout haha. If it has reliability issues I will be switching back to stock with those gears.

 

Ive got some videos to post up from my phone. Just need to figure how to get them from my Iphone to here

 

Awesome

 

I've always wanted a scale crawler. I have a SC truck at the moment. Good lookin truck

 

where'd you get that 2nd gen body?

 

looks like the T-Runner lexan body to me.

 

Yes the body is a replica based off Kyosho's 1/9 4Runner but this one is my by rc4wd called the T-runner

 

Couple questions, if you got the time - how much work did it take to match up the T-runner body with the SCX-10 chassis? And what type of mounting system did you use, I don't see any hood pins? My buddy's got a Honcho with the beat as hell stock body on it, was thinking of building him one for fun, but wanted to get an idea of what I'd be getting into.

 

There are dozens of ways to make a body attach. If you look at pics you can see he uses a Velcro mounting system - it's the front and rear vertical plates. Velcro is good because it will let body pop off in a big roll vs potentially breaking it (ESP. If you have a rigid hard body)

 

Velcro - d'oh, didn't see that. Thanks.

Would still be interested to know how much work that T-Runner body took - did it fit up pretty close, or require a lot of hacking?

 

my guess is no more work than getting any other body to fit on an RC. Velcro is very forgiving with placement. i don't see anything in the pics that would make it particularly difficult to figure out. all you'd really need to do is get the body and hold it over your rig (perhaps with wheel wells cut out already for proper placement) and figure out where you need to put body supports. if you have an SCX10 you could technically drill holes in the body and use body pins like most do with lexan bodies (SCX10 kits come with different length body posts for swapping shells). for this build i'm guessing the PO wanted to be more scale and not have body pins - but personally i'm not too fond of seeing that huge rear support through the clear windows. i would personally try to mount that body with the front velcro kinda where it is (against the hood/grill area) and then put maybe 4 more velcro sections on the sides (running board/door area, and rear quarter panel areas) so that everything is hidden if keeping the windows clear...but then again if i wanted to keep it that scale there would be a full interior...

 

Besides making the mounts, you just need to stretch the truck to the right wheelbase using links/spacers until its just right. When you stretch it you've also got to lengthen your driveshafts which can be bought for very cheap. You can just buy traxxas plastic ones and cut and mate together to make as long of one as you'd ever need. Then you need to correct your steering angle

 

thats pretty cool, havent down much with rc cars or trucks, Im an airplane guy myself, but this has me thinking of making a scale 4runner!