slacker

iTrader: (1)

booked for 2 years .. now it his turn ..

Seb brought his Surf to me because he wanted it to last a long time ..
in pretty good shape on the outside .. I'm sure i'll find some hidden surprises !

started on the fronts first .. typical rust , but not bad .. NEW FRP should last much longer then the stock steel ..













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arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

Looking forward to this one. Do you happen to have any tips where I could get that under-hood liner? I know that at least some 2nd gen 4Runners came with them in the US but in the junkyards they are all torn up or missing so I can't even get one of those to see if it's close to fitting. I didn't know they were ever made specifically for 1st gens although that one looks like a diesel.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

hood insulator .. search part # 53341-89104 ..
maybe even try your local dealer

slacker

iTrader: (1)

working on the rears now .. started with cutting the old panels off , and prepping the inners

slacker

iTrader: (1)

lots of pics for ya ..
panels fit , and ready for some glue ... inners done in POR15
GLUE TIME

slacker

iTrader: (1)

All done ..
Seb picked up today .. another happy customer ..

4.34runner88

What did you use to hold the rear quarters to the Skelton? Also where can I find some of those front inner fender pieces? I looked all over for those plastic things...

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I use and recommend 3M panel bonder # 08115 .. has life time guarantee .

plastics are stock pieces .

4.34runner88

Thank you..

slacker

iTrader: (1)

YW .. glad to help .

4.34runner88

I'm glad to recieve a great product. Sharing it all over the toyota pages I can..

jakey poo

The seam line at the door is perfect! As always great work

4.34runner88

These things sure do fit tight. Gotta fight it a little lol.

4.34runner88

Slacker question.. is there some trimming involved? Looks like some is needed witch is perfectly fine. Also best way to start it when installing like, back to front, top bottom, bottom top ect?. I don't wanna break these lol.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

yes . you should be able to install it as is .. than mark the areas for trimming for better fit .
best to hold the panel @ ~ 45* angle at the rear , and "hook" the tail lamp area in first , then bring the panel to level , and push it on over the top .
it's common to crack it , normally most common is at the lower tail lamp area , but no sweat .. when your finished fitting , drill a 1/8" hole at the end of the crack , and I use the panel bonder as body filler for the crack when finalizing the install .
they are tight , yes they are .. but they fit nice when you get them on .

4.34runner88

Also best way to apply the panel bonder?. I just don't want it being pushed away from areas the panel slides on ect. If that makes sense

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I "squeeze" a good bead on the raw metal 3/4" surface I have taped off , Then I use a popsicle stick to spread over ALL the raw metal surface . I also squirt some onto the panel in the tail lamp area .
then install the panel , and use a very straight 2X4 on the top rail for clamping

4.34runner88

Thanks I'll be installing soon. Still prepping mine to make sure it's right.

4.34runner88

Do you use seam sealer? I just did mine and I have gaps due to my metal being mangled some :/

slacker

iTrader: (1)

you can , nothing wrong with that , and YES I have and do . You do want a sealed panel . Usually in "fitment" I will bang out the steel to fit the FRP If I encounter gaps