Jaco FlowPro digital tire inflator with pressure gauge, no miles

Was looking for an inflator with digital gauge to replace the Milton with analog gauge I've used for so many years. Jomoka has an Astro pneumatic 3018 that works well, but I couldn't deal with the current $76 price.
After some searching I settled on a Jaco FlowPro for $37 and a lot better warranty.

My biggest disappointment was the length of the hose. Maybe it'd work if you're a kindergartner?
I forgot to measure, the website says 21", and part of that goes upward behind the gauge before heading down to the tire. Pointing the gauge downwards to get use of the full length means you can't red the dial- and it's still way too short.

I emailed Jaco to see if they offered longer hose- they do not-
they sent this useful bit of info instead"

• End of air hose to air chuck: 1/4 inch NPT
• Air hose to inflator body: M10 x 1

Today I used some spare bits and pieces I had plus parts from my altered/lengthened milton to make something I can use, seeing as I'm not so fresh out of short kids.
There is not a lot of clearance between the hose and body so it wasn't as simple as a male m10x1 to 1/4" female npt adapter that I needed in order to use the goodyear 3' x 3/8" rubber whip hose 250 psi with 1/4-Inch MNPT ends that I had on the Milton.
Bit of the Milton set-up, bits of adapters I have from various gauges, the inflator body and chuck.
The yellow hose is the goodyear, the silver hose is the one that came with the Jaco. I've found this length to be comfortable for me.


That's all for now. Our dining room and kitchen remodel has been taking up all of our time this fall. I can't wait to have a kitchen sink again!

 

Some time ago I got a super deal on a set of jumper cables with jaw clamps on one end and an anderson connector on the other. The other day I finally needed to use it with the rear anderson and I realized it had the Warn style proprietary plug that means you can only use it with other Warn style connectors.
After a small amount of time and a dremel it now works with the other andersons I'm using that cost a whole lot less than the Warn. I also did this to my winch anderson some time ago.
Warn style..


I cut off the bump on the center part of the connector, now this connector will work with my much less expensive other anderson connectors.

 

1996 4Runner 329,704 miles

I got an alternator for my birthday!!!
It was also 60 degrees out, so I installed it too. Bonus for me, usually on my birthday it's cold and yucky out.

We'd chased down noises at the front of the engine. One is from the alternator, more a bearing noise than a whine. The other is from the fan pulley bracket that I replaced almost 3 years/14,000 miles ago. More on that later.
This timed nicely with a mod my husband did to his truck (he had an alternator whine) and with finding the other noise was the fan pulley bracket which meant the fan components were already out of the way, as was the p/s and alt belts.

Jomoka found you can use a 100amp Denso 210-0461 alternator in the stock spot, stock size, and stock wiring. The pulley's even the same. The connectors are in a different spot, wasn't a problem for me. You do have to drill out the threads on the alternator side of the mount. He did that for me because he's nice that way. The cable is now at the bottom of the alternator, it was near the top on the other one. Removing the oil filter will be close, but I don't think they'll fight with each other.
I've looked at the GM alternator mod, too big to fit under my dual battery box. While this alternator may not be as parts-house readily available as the 120-140amp GM it still seems a good alternative- about the best for my needs at a stock alternator price.
I'm waiting for the fan pulley bracket to finish the install.

So this one is 100 amp. Stock on the 96-98 is 70 amp and 99-02 is 80 amp. The housings are all the same size.

 

Excellent find.
And hope you had a terrific birthday. (My daughters was the 8th; she's an 87 model.)

 

Cool, we share a birthday, I hope hers was at least as good as mine!

 

96 4Runner 329,979ish

Curiosity about the old alternator, how much life was left in the brushes.


Turned out, swapping it for something else wasn't the worst idea.

Now I'm chasing an intermittent p0171. This chase is currently more of an amble, too random so far.

 

Met a guy and his son today, new to our area from California. Nice people. Really nice truck and he STILL HAS SILLS!!! No rust, I'm so jealous of that!


There was a lot of nice things on the truck, I really liked this, but it might have been because of the graphic
Well, that and a hot shower in camp?

 

Watched my husband change the 99's front struts and upper a-arms. At some point the tornado sirens went off. There was impending doom and also storms not terribly far away.
He seemed to be having a 'fun' adventure.

There's no pics, so it didn't actually happen.
Well, the tornado happened, but thankfully it was an EF0 and 4 miles away.
No pics of that either.

 

It is so fun removing those upper ball joints from the spindles.

Then on the driver side it was a struggle to get the bottom strut mount bolted to the LCA, it didn't seem like the LCA would go down as far as it should.

Anyhow, now I should be able to adjust the front ride height. The coilover nuts on the Radflos were absolutely not going to budge. I'd tried repeatedly in the past, rust belt had welded the nuts to the shock body.

Now I can get another inch and a bit of front ride height. I have manual hubs so CV boot ribs rubbing won't be an issue.

 

96 4Runner 329,955 miles

Exhaust day: The muffler was leaking at a seam, the tailpipe was smooshed at a bend and rusting out and leaking (r/r 2017), heck, I didn't even like the way the cat looked at me and I've had a heck of a time with exhaust leaks at the cross-over to cat flanges so I replaced it too (2013 aftermarket walker).


The new Magnaflow (fancy Walker) cat 27301 is smaller, direct bolt-on, came with all 3 gaskets. For the exhaust I chose Magnaflow Overland series 19538 which has everything in one kit for all 3rd gens. There are 3 different sound options, I picked the NDT version (no drone technology- 1/4 wave resonator) as it sounded best to me. It uses band clamps other than the flange between the cat and muffler and comes with everything except for the 2 flange bolts and the rubber hangers for the muffler.
It's 409 stainless, a step down from the 304 and a tad less expensive. I also used a coupon code to get a little bit more off at Napa. It's tucked up pretty well, but so was the Walker I had before, the biggest difference aside from the sound/resonator is the tailpipe. It's a lot shorter and possibly a little harder to squash, will know more on that after our annual out-west trip. To accommodate the shorter pipe 2 different style bolt-on hangers were included for the new tailpipe hanger position.


Almost forgot, I also replaced the o2 sensors with Denso 234-4161 (front) and 234-4154 (rear) for m/t 4wd 96
Now everything is pretty for a minute.

Edit: The tone is nice but coming off a quiet muffler, this guy is pretty loud. If it ever stops storming when I happen to be sitting still I'll get under there at check for leaks at the band clamps. I also still need to make a heat shield for my air lines/air tank.
On the plus side regarding the sound level it's harder to hear all the other 'what's that' noises.

Got a few more repairs coming up.

 

96 4Runner, still 329,955 miles

Today I replaced the blown bilstein with a new one. The Sonoran Steel lift calls for a 24-261425 on the 2nd perch.

First I did a bunch of research on compressing the Tundra spring, because the spring compressors we have absolutely won't do the job. That's where I ran across this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/spri....100142/page-2 with lots of mention of various spring compressors people like. Post 38 had links to videos on how to install springs without a spring compressor. I watched those and did a bit more research on the same subject and decided it was safe enough to give it a shot.

It worked!

A box end wrench was used to position the shock shaft rather than fingers like the guy on the video did, and I had to undo more things (they had newer style suspension than mine)- the lower ball joint bolts, the tie-rod end, the sway-bar link all had to come apart. The lower control arm alignment tab positions were marked, then the bolts were loosened. I still have to finish tightening everything up on the right and then do the left side when I can get a spare minute, and I'll try to take pics and do more of a write-up then.

 

96 4Runner 329,999 miles

Did the left coil-over using the same method of the truck's weight to compress the spring and install the shock.
You-tube videos of the basic procedure linked above in an 05 Tacoma. We've got more things stuck to the 3rd gen a-arm that has to go, but otherwise about right.

After lifting the truck enough to remove the wheel and putting a jack stand on the frame to keep it solidly in place I removed the left front wheel.
Next I removed the sway bar link and outer tie-rod end, and loosened the bottom shock mount bolt.
I also marked the alignment cams and loosened the lower control arm mount bolts.
To allow the lower control arm to droop down I removed the lower ball joint bolts.
To take the shock out I used a jack to lift the lower control arm to compress the spring until it's almost lifting the truck. At this point all the bolts having to do with the coil-over are still there.


Once it's ready I held the square end of the top of the shock with an adjustable wrench and an open-end wrench to take the top shock nut off. A quick wire brushing to get the crud off the exposed threads before I started would have made it easier to take the nut off, so it wouldn't have had to pass over the detritus, but it wasn't bad. To give myself the extra oomph I slide a scrap 2' long tube over the end of the wrench for the extra leverage. I am neither a mechanic and also not superwoman.

When the nut is off I used the jack to gently lower the lower control arm until there is no more tension on the spring. The spindle/upper ball joint may catch on the spring as the coil decompresses, it can be moved out of the way easily enough.
Once the assembly has no more tension remove the lower shock bolt from the mount.
Remove the shock and spring.

This is where one would replace the top-hat if needed- the other 3 nuts on the upper shock mount.

To install the new shock, move the c-clip to the desired groove on the shock if applicable and set it up with the necessary spring mount, lower washer, and bushing and add the loose spring. Slip it into place and bolt to the lower control arm- but not tight, we'll take care of that later.

Use the jack to lift the lower control arm and move the shock and spring up into place while making sure the spring sits in its mount properly, as well as up top. I also guided the end link into the sway bar as it was ascending since I didn't remove it entirely.
When the top of the shock was close enough, I used a wrench to guide the shaft through the hole.




add the upper bushing, washer, screw the nut down tight.
Reinstall the lower control arm bolts with loc-tite and proper torque (depends on your bolt style- my flange bolts 90080-10066 are 59 ft lbs, some of them are much lower, like the style with the washers, so appropriate torque to appropriate bolt. Also re-install the outer tie-rod end and sway bar link (I did the link when the truck was off the jack, just made sure it was in the proper place as I was going along.

Put the wheel back on and take the truck off the jack stand. Here's where I finished re-installing the sway bar link.
Now it's time to tighten the rear lower control arm mount bolts (watch your marks) and the lower shock mount bolt.

And that's how I did it. Again, not a mechanic or superwoman, and I don't play either on tv.

 

96 4Runner 330,xxx miles

Realized the Toyota spark plug wire set has 101,000 miles on them.

Replaced the Toyota wire set with NGK. The Toyota wires have a date- 2011. I wish NGK dated theirs, they don't.
NGK 4412 / TE-66
I used a little dielectric grease on install.

Curiosity got me, the ohms on the new set were in the 7s, and the old set ranged 15.6 - 16.7


Firing order


I need to keep an eye out for an upper timing belt cover, mine is feeling pretty brittle as I was carefully pulling the wire keepers off to transfer to the new set.

 

96 4Runner 330,156 miles

Valve cover gaskets. I'm down to the valve covers and have the left one off, but everything I touch is burning me because the shade went away.
Because I like my fingers to not potentially catch fire (only a wee bit dramatic) when I touch something I'll have to wait for later this afternoon when the shade comes back.
It's only 90 degrees so far, with a lovely 47% humidity. Will be hotter later, but with no blasting sun frying all the metal things, the truck, tools, valve covers, etc, it should be more comfortable to do the job.

The left side looks pretty good. When I do the right side I'll post pics.

 

96 4Runner 330,xxx miles

Valve cover gaskets done. Been driving here and there for a few days, no more oil smell is a good thing.
5vzfe
Gaskets are Toytota #11213-62020 (need 2)
Seal washers for the valve cover bolts are 90210-05007 (need 16 total)

I didn't even bother pulling the coolant lines off the throttle body, just the intake hose, the cruise and throttle cables, all vacuum lines including the one on the underside, the iac and tps connectors, and the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold it to the upper intake, then simply set it aside.
Kinda like so, moved as needed for access.


Things looked pretty good, valve cover bolts torqued to 53 IN-lbs using several passes and a pattern to tighten as even as possible.
Somehow I forgot to get a pic of the left side which looked better than the right one:


And this is what's under the pcv - the raised, closed off area between the holes for #1 and #3. The square piece directly between those has a small entrance for the venting. Just an observation.



The week before this we rode from our home in St. Louis county to the Katy trail at hwy 364, from there to Machens at one end, and then to Clinton MO on the other end...and then exited the Katy at 364 and rode home. 533 miles with 72# of gear (self-supported) in 9 days.
There's people who do it way faster, I was glad to not be one of them. Whew!
Struck up a conversation with Andy while camped at the Sedalia fairgrounds about his nice 3rd gen (No rust!! Actual sills!) and he asked to see mine. I pointed to:


which is what we were 'driving' at the time. I didn't think to show him pics on the phone. Ah, well. Prolly lucky for him, I generally have a lot more to say about the old blue truck than people want to hear
For those who bike...
The hubby's decked out Salsa Fargo


and my 97 Fisher Supercaliber with '99ish Bob trailer.


And that's that. For now.

 

96 4Runner 330,358 miles

Added some heat wrap to the part of the tailpipe that the air line on the air tank gets close to. The old pipe wasn't as big in diameter and hadn't been a problem. So far with this set-up the air line was getting very warm so I've added the wrap as a precaution.


I also changed out the Optronics 4 center led turn signals that came with the 4xInnovations front bumper with the same brand but with 12 spread out leds.
I was hoping for better visibility, but don't think these achieved it. The wider pattern might help at night, but in daylight the more concentrated spot appears to be more visible.
Old is passenger, new is driver

 

96 4Runner 333,733 miles

3375 miles of fun in colorado and utah
A few small issues this year, like a sticking dome light selector lever, a radiator cap that isn't fitting quite right, that silly on-going p0171 that I haven't found the cause for, and a more bent up skid plate

Drove:
Marshall pass
Tomichi creek and pass
Hancock pass
Gateway/thompson canyon/onion creek
Hell's Revenge including Hell's gate
Elephant Hill
The Maze district from Hans Flat to Panorama, Cleopatra's Chair, Flint Trail, Doll House, Standing Rock, out Hite (which no longer has gas, that was an adventure)
Ophir pass
Imogene
Mineral creek (past an upside-down jeep)
Cinnamon Pass
Squirrel Creek Road

biked:
methodist mtn in Salida
a mix of trails in crested butte
the raptor route in Moab
Phil's World in Cortez
marshall pass to the rainbow trail, but ditched rainbow and did the county road whoopties because of incoming storms (so fun)

hiked:
the needles district
Maze district shot canyon to water canyon to dollhouse via the confluence trail

and had a generally great time.
pics and stuff later

 

Awesome times again eh?
I thought you all were not coming out cuz of the MO trail ride. Oh, to be one of the idle wealthy, lol.

On the P0171; I had put a 99 5vz into my 95 body. Finally got it all pretty much buttoned up, but ran/idled not well. Like a stuck throttle.
Even took to dealer. Might post about it , because it might help someone. Long story nobody cares.

Anyway was thinking "<bad words> My new fuel pump must be bad". FSM list of usual suspects, so was watching vids. Decided I will take AFM actually off the tube and do a proper job. Not 100% sure, but looked like tiny piece of lint(?!) on one of those tiny cap'or looking things. Long story, no more code. Runs really great I think. Maybe a bit janky according to what I would think until it gets warmer. But TBH I never owned a 5VZ so really don't know what is 'normal' for new. New exhaust from cat back so Emissions will test it, and I should be good. After I get another AC tensioner pulley. Came plumb off saturday.

 

Idle wealthy... Since we mostly camp NOT in campgrounds and bring/shop for food that helps, plus you know how I'm making all those lunch lady dollarz...kid drawings are gold, right? I mean, they are to me!
Our bike trip was self-supported mostly camping though we did rent a room twice to wash clothes and ourselves. Thankfully so, because one of those nights was the crazy storms tornado warning nights. It's a bit, but we already have the gear and no (other) expensive hobbies.

I'll look into the maf again, and all the vacuum lines. Wish I'd tested the driver side injector resistance while I had the upper intake off, will test the passenger side. My air intake is wrapped in rescue tape because of cracks, I'll take a good gander of that too. Will check the tb gasket and anything else I can think of.
Thanks for giving me the pay close attention thoughts.

The hubby's a/c belt popped off the day we were heading into Utah. We thought it was the idler pulley but we were wrong. He reinstalled the belt and it behaved itself the rest of the trip.
Bummer about your tensioner pulley exiting stage left. Always always it is something to keep us entertained, whether we want it or not.

Here's the entrance to get down to the bottom of Hell's Gate. The tire marks tell you where to descend the v-shaped notch. That's the Colorado river well below and beyond the stand of trees...


And me at the bottom of Hell's Gate. The hubby had already driven it and spotted me up. Did I need a spot? Not really, but still he was nice and did it anyway. 106 degrees of nice!


Rear locker, I think I was not quite all the way low-low, came right up.

I'm still working through pics and also trying to catch up on stuff, more later.

 

96 4Runner 333,7 miles

Small things.
1) Washed off the awning and have it open to dry. Had to put it away wet last time I used it so I didn't want to leave it that way. One of the awning arm bolts is a teeny bit loose, I'll tighten it before it gets folded back up.

2) Tightened the radiator cap catches- the radiator cap was too loose on the radiator, now it's about the same tightness as the 99's cap. The lip on the Denso radiator must be thinner than the oe radiators, I tried 2 caps and they had the same wobbly fitment. Maybe this is a counterfeit Denso radiator? Either way, we'll see how that works.

3) Lubed the OBA coupler and am trying to get it to allow the coupler to seal when there is nothing attached to it. It works with whatever I plug into it, and releases, but wants to stay in the release position and not close, it won't hold the air in the tank. I may have to replace it, but am starting with this.

4) The dome light became very hard to switch. I usually keep it on 'off', but had switched it to on a couple of times to find things at night. One day it stopped working well. Today I pulled off the lens and undid the two screws that hold it to the truck as well as the electrical connector. It's a simple gadget, the metal ball at the end of the lever appears to have partially melted out of its seat in the plastic lever, allowing it to drop down enough to make it more difficult to move out of the off position where it rests. I'll be grabbing one from a junkyard truck when I see one. Am not sure what caused the heat, maybe the switch wasn't fully on 'off'?