habanero

Jaco FlowPro digital tire inflator with pressure gauge, no miles

Was looking for an inflator with digital gauge to replace the Milton with analog gauge I've used for so many years. Jomoka has an Astro pneumatic 3018 that works well, but I couldn't deal with the current $76 price.
After some searching I settled on a Jaco FlowPro for $37 and a lot better warranty.

My biggest disappointment was the length of the hose. Maybe it'd work if you're a kindergartner?
I forgot to measure, the website says 21", and part of that goes upward behind the gauge before heading down to the tire. Pointing the gauge downwards to get use of the full length means you can't red the dial- and it's still way too short.

I emailed Jaco to see if they offered longer hose- they do not-
they sent this useful bit of info instead"

• End of air hose to air chuck: 1/4 inch NPT
• Air hose to inflator body: M10 x 1

Today I used some spare bits and pieces I had plus parts from my altered/lengthened milton to make something I can use, seeing as I'm not so fresh out of short kids.
There is not a lot of clearance between the hose and body so it wasn't as simple as a male m10x1 to 1/4" female npt adapter that I needed in order to use the goodyear 3' x 3/8" rubber whip hose 250 psi with 1/4-Inch MNPT ends that I had on the Milton.
Bit of the Milton set-up, bits of adapters I have from various gauges, the inflator body and chuck.
The yellow hose is the goodyear, the silver hose is the one that came with the Jaco. I've found this length to be comfortable for me.


That's all for now. Our dining room and kitchen remodel has been taking up all of our time this fall. I can't wait to have a kitchen sink again!

habanero

Some time ago I got a super deal on a set of jumper cables with jaw clamps on one end and an anderson connector on the other. The other day I finally needed to use it with the rear anderson and I realized it had the Warn style proprietary plug that means you can only use it with other Warn style connectors.
After a small amount of time and a dremel it now works with the other andersons I'm using that cost a whole lot less than the Warn. I also did this to my winch anderson some time ago.
Warn style..


I cut off the bump on the center part of the connector, now this connector will work with my much less expensive other anderson connectors.

habanero

1996 4Runner 329,704 miles

I got an alternator for my birthday!!!
It was also 60 degrees out, so I installed it too. Bonus for me, usually on my birthday it's cold and yucky out.

We'd chased down noises at the front of the engine. One is from the alternator, more a bearing noise than a whine. The other is from the fan pulley bracket that I replaced almost 3 years/14,000 miles ago. More on that later.
This timed nicely with a mod my husband did to his truck (he had an alternator whine) and with finding the other noise was the fan pulley bracket which meant the fan components were already out of the way, as was the p/s and alt belts.

Jomoka found you can use a 100amp Denso 210-0461 alternator in the stock spot, stock size, and stock wiring. The pulley's even the same. The connectors are in a different spot, wasn't a problem for me. You do have to drill out the threads on the alternator side of the mount. He did that for me because he's nice that way. The cable is now at the bottom of the alternator, it was near the top on the other one. Removing the oil filter will be close, but I don't think they'll fight with each other.
I've looked at the GM alternator mod, too big to fit under my dual battery box. While this alternator may not be as parts-house readily available as the 120-140amp GM it still seems a good alternative- about the best for my needs at a stock alternator price.
I'm waiting for the fan pulley bracket to finish the install.

So this one is 100 amp. Stock on the 96-98 is 70 amp and 99-02 is 80 amp. The housings are all the same size.

coopster

Excellent find.
And hope you had a terrific birthday. (My daughters was the 8th; she's an 87 model.)

habanero

Cool, we share a birthday, I hope hers was at least as good as mine!

habanero

96 4Runner 329,979ish

Curiosity about the old alternator, how much life was left in the brushes.


Turned out, swapping it for something else wasn't the worst idea.

Now I'm chasing an intermittent p0171. This chase is currently more of an amble, too random so far.

habanero

Met a guy and his son today, new to our area from California. Nice people. Really nice truck and he STILL HAS SILLS!!! No rust, I'm so jealous of that!


There was a lot of nice things on the truck, I really liked this, but it might have been because of the graphic
Well, that and a hot shower in camp?

habanero

Watched my husband change the 99's front struts and upper a-arms. At some point the tornado sirens went off. There was impending doom and also storms not terribly far away.
He seemed to be having a 'fun' adventure.

There's no pics, so it didn't actually happen.
Well, the tornado happened, but thankfully it was an EF0 and 4 miles away.
No pics of that either.

Jomoka

It is so fun removing those upper ball joints from the spindles.

Then on the driver side it was a struggle to get the bottom strut mount bolted to the LCA, it didn't seem like the LCA would go down as far as it should.

Anyhow, now I should be able to adjust the front ride height. The coilover nuts on the Radflos were absolutely not going to budge. I'd tried repeatedly in the past, rust belt had welded the nuts to the shock body.

Now I can get another inch and a bit of front ride height. I have manual hubs so CV boot ribs rubbing won't be an issue.

habanero

96 4Runner 329,955 miles

Exhaust day: The muffler was leaking at a seam, the tailpipe was smooshed at a bend and rusting out and leaking (r/r 2017), heck, I didn't even like the way the cat looked at me and I've had a heck of a time with exhaust leaks at the cross-over to cat flanges so I replaced it too (2013 aftermarket walker).


The new Magnaflow (fancy Walker) cat 27301 is smaller, direct bolt-on, came with all 3 gaskets. For the exhaust I chose Magnaflow Overland series 19538 which has everything in one kit for all 3rd gens. There are 3 different sound options, I picked the NDT version (no drone technology- 1/4 wave resonator) as it sounded best to me. It uses band clamps other than the flange between the cat and muffler and comes with everything except for the 2 flange bolts and the rubber hangers for the muffler.
It's 409 stainless, a step down from the 304 and a tad less expensive. I also used a coupon code to get a little bit more off at Napa. It's tucked up pretty well, but so was the Walker I had before, the biggest difference aside from the sound/resonator is the tailpipe. It's a lot shorter and possibly a little harder to squash, will know more on that after our annual out-west trip. To accommodate the shorter pipe 2 different style bolt-on hangers were included for the new tailpipe hanger position.


Almost forgot, I also replaced the o2 sensors with Denso 234-4161 (front) and 234-4154 (rear) for m/t 4wd 96
Now everything is pretty for a minute.

Edit: The tone is nice but coming off a quiet muffler, this guy is pretty loud. If it ever stops storming when I happen to be sitting still I'll get under there at check for leaks at the band clamps. I also still need to make a heat shield for my air lines/air tank.
On the plus side regarding the sound level it's harder to hear all the other 'what's that' noises.

Got a few more repairs coming up.

habanero

96 4Runner, still 329,955 miles

Today I replaced the blown bilstein with a new one. The Sonoran Steel lift calls for a 24-261425 on the 2nd perch.

First I did a bunch of research on compressing the Tundra spring, because the spring compressors we have absolutely won't do the job. That's where I ran across this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/spri....100142/page-2 with lots of mention of various spring compressors people like. Post 38 had links to videos on how to install springs without a spring compressor. I watched those and did a bit more research on the same subject and decided it was safe enough to give it a shot.

It worked!

A box end wrench was used to position the shock shaft rather than fingers like the guy on the video did, and I had to undo more things (they had newer style suspension than mine)- the lower ball joint bolts, the tie-rod end, the sway-bar link all had to come apart. The lower control arm alignment tab positions were marked, then the bolts were loosened. I still have to finish tightening everything up on the right and then do the left side when I can get a spare minute, and I'll try to take pics and do more of a write-up then.

habanero

96 4Runner 329,999 miles

Did the left coil-over using the same method of the truck's weight to compress the spring and install the shock.
You-tube videos of the basic procedure linked above in an 05 Tacoma. We've got more things stuck to the 3rd gen a-arm that has to go, but otherwise about right.

After lifting the truck enough to remove the wheel and putting a jack stand on the frame to keep it solidly in place I removed the left front wheel.
Next I removed the sway bar link and outer tie-rod end, and loosened the bottom shock mount bolt.
I also marked the alignment cams and loosened the lower control arm mount bolts.
To allow the lower control arm to droop down I removed the lower ball joint bolts.
To take the shock out I used a jack to lift the lower control arm to compress the spring until it's almost lifting the truck. At this point all the bolts having to do with the coil-over are still there.


Once it's ready I held the square end of the top of the shock with an adjustable wrench and an open-end wrench to take the top shock nut off. A quick wire brushing to get the crud off the exposed threads before I started would have made it easier to take the nut off, so it wouldn't have had to pass over the detritus, but it wasn't bad. To give myself the extra oomph I slide a scrap 2' long tube over the end of the wrench for the extra leverage. I am neither a mechanic and also not superwoman.

When the nut is off I used the jack to gently lower the lower control arm until there is no more tension on the spring. The spindle/upper ball joint may catch on the spring as the coil decompresses, it can be moved out of the way easily enough.
Once the assembly has no more tension remove the lower shock bolt from the mount.
Remove the shock and spring.

This is where one would replace the top-hat if needed- the other 3 nuts on the upper shock mount.

To install the new shock, move the c-clip to the desired groove on the shock if applicable and set it up with the necessary spring mount, lower washer, and bushing and add the loose spring. Slip it into place and bolt to the lower control arm- but not tight, we'll take care of that later.

Use the jack to lift the lower control arm and move the shock and spring up into place while making sure the spring sits in its mount properly, as well as up top. I also guided the end link into the sway bar as it was ascending since I didn't remove it entirely.
When the top of the shock was close enough, I used a wrench to guide the shaft through the hole.




add the upper bushing, washer, screw the nut down tight.
Reinstall the lower control arm bolts with loc-tite and proper torque (depends on your bolt style- my flange bolts 90080-10066 are 59 ft lbs, some of them are much lower, like the style with the washers, so appropriate torque to appropriate bolt. Also re-install the outer tie-rod end and sway bar link (I did the link when the truck was off the jack, just made sure it was in the proper place as I was going along.

Put the wheel back on and take the truck off the jack stand. Here's where I finished re-installing the sway bar link.
Now it's time to tighten the rear lower control arm mount bolts (watch your marks) and the lower shock mount bolt.

And that's how I did it. Again, not a mechanic or superwoman, and I don't play either on tv.